Looking for advice on Wobble over 50MPH Freelander 2

Hi,
Will start with a breif history.
Initially had to change both front wheel bearings, left one failed. Then a month after right hand side did the same.
This fixed the noise problem i had from bearings, but then about a month after the last bearing change and driving on the motorway the whole car began to shake violently. So bad that i had to pull off and did a quick inspection. Couldnt find anything wrong, went back onto motorway and it drove fine and did for about a week until it did it again but this time not as bad shaking. I got the two front wheels balanced and the shaking reduced, but its still there. Have noticed initially that if i was motorway driving above 50 and on a slight incline i would notice the shake. i can feel it through the steering wheel a little. i also think that it has pulled over to the right on two occassions. this is also intermittant so bard to pin dow. was going to change the two front brake discs and pads.
Now for the advice. Do you think i'm on the right track with the brake discs, possibly even brake caliper sticking. or could it be something else?

I'm no expert on the fl2, but do the standard checks.
Check tyres for flat spots, have the balance weights dropped off. Check track rod ends, drop links, bushings.
Yes check the brake discs and pads, also check the brake fluid.
Basically, wobble, pull and push all components, and use a pry bar for suspension parts.
Hopefully someone better with the fl2 can be more specific.
Mike

New bearings, then a wobble.

If something new happens after a component change, I suspect what has been changed first. Some makes of bearings have poor quality control,Britpart last about a month of hard driving for me. Double check all the things recently changed, undone and re done. Ensure the correct torque settings, freeplay etc. Check all lock tabs, washers etc are correctly locking

I wonder if it needs the 4 wheel alignment checking now, also driveshafts can cause a wobble, they may well have disturbed them unsympathetically

Skinny Mike said:

I'm no expert on the fl2, but do the standard checks.
Check tyres for flat spots, have the balance weights dropped off. Check track rod ends, drop links, bushings.
Yes check the brake discs and pads, also check the brake fluid.
Basically, wobble, pull and push all components, and use a pry bar for suspension parts.
Hopefully someone better with the fl2 can be more specific.
Mike

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Hi,

I did all of them, only thing i've not managed yet is changing the brake disks and pads. Not had time. but what i did notice this weekend. I took the wheels off and one of the disks for a quick check. Now when driving the wobble is at a different speed. so i'm beginning to think since i didn't fit the wheel back onto the exact same position on the hub. something is either wrong with hub or wheel.

Seffy said:

New bearings, then a wobble.

If something new happens after a component change, I suspect what has been changed first. Some makes of bearings have poor quality control,Britpart last about a month of hard driving for me. Double check all the things recently changed, undone and re done. Ensure the correct torque settings, freeplay etc. Check all lock tabs, washers etc are correctly locking

Click to expand...

As it only really happened after the second one, and i think the poblem and wobble lies with that side. it may be worth a try.

freelance said:

I wonder if it needs the 4 wheel alignment checking now, also driveshafts can cause a wobble, they may well have disturbed them unsympathetically

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Hi,

i did have a problem with the first drive shaft. when changing the bearing i didnt notice that it fell out. I had to remove the boot and reinsert the triple bearing back into the housing. I have though checked this and there is no excess movement or anything.

One in three chance of putting it back in original place , how's your luck?

Have a look for any alignment marks, that may be obscured by however many years of road grime. While there, look for any suspiciously less grimy areas that may suggest a balance weight has fallen off a shaft. As a rule of thumb, if it rotates, mark everywhere it changes to something else, so a prop shaft I would mark both ends. Brake disks are normally manufactured to fine tolerances that mean they are very well balanced, so their positioning shouldn't matter. Wheels are generally pretty good too, it is the tyres that are not so finely manufactured and need weighting to balance them.

KISS
sticking drivers side calliper or engine/box mounts

freelance said:

One in three chance of putting it back in original place , how's your luck?

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Hi,

I thought looking at these they were equidistant, I take it from your comment they're not? and answer to your question not very lucky lol

Shanec said:

KISS
sticking drivers side calliper or engine/box mounts

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Have throught about this as it's not all the time.

Stephboyle127 said:

Hi,

I thought looking at these they were equidistant, I take it from your comment they're not? and answer to your question not very lucky lol

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The joint will wear at different rates on each cup and grove. If the cups didn't go back from the grove it was worn into, then vibration is a real possibility

^^^^^ my thoughts as well ! Hence my comments

Nodge68 said:

The joint will wear at different rates on each cup and grove. If the cups didn't go back from the grove it was worn into, then vibration is a real possibility

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So as a quick check, if i rotate the shaft one point at a time and test them this will eliminate that problem one way or another. To do this I will move one groove, run about for a bit. If fixed great, if not move another groove. that way i will have tested all three grooves. or would it be better to buy new complete shaft. just don't want to spend if thats not the problem.

freelance said:

^^^^^ my thoughts as well ! Hence my comments

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Thanks for all the input, any info on my last last question.

Stephboyle127 said:

So as a quick check, if i rotate the shaft one point at a time and test them this will eliminate that problem one way or another. To do this I will move one groove, run about for a bit. If fixed great, if not move another groove. that way i will have tested all three grooves. or would it be better to buy new complete shaft. just don't want to spend if thats not the problem.

Click to expand...

That's the way I'd be checking it .
Running the cups in the wrong grove could wear the grove in a slightly different position, which could induce its own vibration. So try all positions and use the position that provides the least vibration.

Nodge68 said:

That's the way I'd be checking it .
Running the cups in the wrong grove could wear the grove in a slightly different position, which could induce its own vibration. So try all positions and use the position that provides the least vibration.

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Cheers, thats my weekend sorted then.

Finally got to the source of my wobble problem. Feel like an utter **** when I discovered what it was. Low tyre pressure on all Tyres. I bought one of those compressors you plug into car. was an RAC one so thought yeah that'll be ok. turns out the gauge was not reading correctly and all my Tyres were ten bar under. I expected it to be off slightly but not that much. only found out when I happened to check pressure at petrol garage. so from now on won't be trusting that bloody compressor. cheers for all the help guys anyway.

I'm guessing you mean 10psi, not bar
Get yourself a good digital tyre pressure gauge alot less messing about. If you look at the specs they tell you how accurate they are, look for one that's +/-2 psi or less.
Glad you got it sorted.
Mike