P38A Locks, RF interface and EKA code

My P38 is currently laid up for the summer ready for me to do a few jobs before the next MOT. It is parked a lot closer to the house than usual and surprise surprise the battery went flat pretty quickly. I disconnected the RF interface for the central locking and problem solved. Mine has v2 of the interface so I will get a filter kit from http://www.p38webshop.co.uk/ once they have more stock. Anyway I locked up with the key no problem but when I came to unlock only the drivers door popped up and nothing else, no motors whirring etc, I opened the door and the alarm went off straight away. I reconnected the RF interface quickly and pressed the button and all OK. I tried the EKA code with the usual procedure but it didn't recognise the key turning to unlock. I thought it must be a microswitch problem so stripped the lock out and dismantled it. Turns out the microswitchs are all OK but there were a number of broken bits of plastic rattling around in the lock including one bit that operates one of the microswitchs. What a pain in the bum.
My questions are, does the RF filter from http://www.p38webshop.co.uk/ eliminate the interference issue for good?
Do I get a good used door lock as new ones are pricy or can you get the internal bits to repair it? Or is there a better or different option?

Andy Burrell said:

My P38 is currently laid up for the summer ready for me to do a few jobs before the next MOT. It is parked a lot closer to the house than usual and surprise surprise the battery went flat pretty quickly. I disconnected the RF interface for the central locking and problem solved. Mine has v2 of the interface so I will get a filter kit from http://www.p38webshop.co.uk/ once they have more stock. Anyway I locked up with the key no problem but when I came to unlock only the drivers door popped up and nothing else, no motors whirring etc, I opened the door and the alarm went off straight away. I reconnected the RF interface quickly and pressed the button and all OK. I tried the EKA code with the usual procedure but it didn't recognise the key turning to unlock. I thought it must be a microswitch problem so stripped the lock out and dismantled it. Turns out the microswitchs are all OK but there were a number of broken bits of plastic rattling around in the lock including one bit that operates one of the microswitchs. What a pain in the bum.
My questions are, does the RF filter from http://www.p38webshop.co.uk/ eliminate the interference issue for good?
Do I get a good used door lock as new ones are pricy or can you get the internal bits to repair it? Or is there a better or different option?

Click to expand...

I think Marty UK does lock overhauls when he's in the UK.
If you can get access to diagnostics such as Nanocom, turn off the EKA and the immobiliser as long as the dash is not asking for EKA and you can operate the car with just the key blade. Did you have the message on the dash "Enter EKA"? If not then you should not need to enter it.
The battery needs to be fully charged or you may have problems with entering EKA.
If you locked with the key, you have to unlock with the key before using the FOB.

I was just testing to see if the EKA worked after I had set the alarm etc off as had the engine immobiliser message on the dash, often had it happen on my old DSE so new something was up with the lock when it didnt work. Luckily plugging the RF interface in and using the fob sorted it out. Will leave it plugged in and connect up my CTEK MSX5 to keep the battery from going dead again.
Will wait for @martyuk to be back in the UK for the RF filter and see what can be done with the lock. As the car is a 2002 it is the very last style of lock and there seem to be plenty of preloved ones about.

Andy Burrell said:

I was just testing to see if the EKA worked after I had set the alarm etc off as had the engine immobiliser message on the dash, often had it happen on my old DSE so new something was up with the lock when it didnt work. Luckily plugging the RF interface in and using the fob sorted it out. Will leave it plugged in and connect up my CTEK MSX5 to keep the battery from going dead again.
Will wait for @martyuk to be back in the UK for the RF filter and see what can be done with the lock. As the car is a 2002 it is the very last style of lock and there seem to be plenty of preloved ones about.

Click to expand...

As I said, turn off the EKA and immobiliser, then you will have no trouble from a flat battery and can run with the RF receiver disconnected just using the key blade. I run 2 like that.

Will do that tomorrow as its a tad warm inside the big glasshouse on wheels at the moment.

Datatek said:

As I said, turn off the EKA and immobiliser, then you will have no trouble from a flat battery and can run with the RF receiver disconnected just using the key blade. I run 2 like that.

Click to expand...

Been in to the BECM today and disabled the EKA and immobiliser and disconnected the RF receiver. Because the drivers door lock is knackered the only way to lock the car is open the rear passenger door, push down the front passenger lock button and close the rear passenger door. Bit of a faff but better than the battery being flattened. I have however found another issue that the boot doesn't lock at all however you lock the car up. Something else to fix yippee....

Sounds like you need to take of the door card and look at the little bars in there before you get totally locked out. they are prone to falling off as we have found out.

J

marjon said:

Sounds like you need to take of the door card and look at the little bars in there before you get totally locked out. they are prone to falling off as we have found out.

J

Click to expand...

Had the lock out and its broken inside. One of the internal lever pivots has snapped and a thin piece of curved plastic on the end of the lever that's moved by the motor has also broken. Going to get a good used one to replace it.

Andy Burrell said:

Had the lock out and its broken inside. One of the internal lever pivots has snapped and a thin piece of curved plastic on the end of the lever that's moved by the motor has also broken. Going to get a good used one to replace it.

Click to expand...

Ok good call.
I would say don't chuck out the old 1. Send it to Marty as a donation for parts.

J

Andy Burrell said:

Had the lock out and its broken inside. One of the internal lever pivots has snapped and a thin piece of curved plastic on the end of the lever that's moved by the motor has also broken. Going to get a good used one to replace it.

Click to expand...

That's why the boot doesn't lock if you mean the button stays active.

Replaced the lock mechanism today and straight away noticed that there is an arm missing off the lock where the arrow points in the picture. This I would guess is for the lazy lock on the windows as this now works when it didn't before. Boot lock also works as it should. I also found the lump of metal in the second picture in the bottom of the door and have no idea where it may have dropped off.??
I am happy to send the duff lock to @martyuk to be used as spares/donor. Where do I send it?

Andy Burrell said:

Replaced the lock mechanism today and straight away noticed that there is an arm missing off the lock where the arrow points in the picture. This I would guess is for the lazy lock on the windows as this now works when it didn't before. Boot lock also works as it should. I also found the lump of metal in the second picture in the bottom of the door and have no idea where it may have dropped off.??
I am happy to send the duff lock to @martyuk to be used as spares/donor. Where do I send it?

Click to expand...

Ive got 2 more of the metal lumps if you want them
It's a spacer for the lock assy, haven't had mine on for years, too much of a faf to put them back. I have a latch to go back to him in exchange for a refurb one I bought, he has told me to hang on to it until he returns.

As for Marty's filters, it has certainly worked wonders on mine! Marty is away at the moment so I believe is not currently doing locks/latches and filters for the time being. I managed to get my order in before he left again.

Andy Burrell said:

Replaced the lock mechanism today and straight away noticed that there is an arm missing off the lock where the arrow points in the picture. This I would guess is for the lazy lock on the windows as this now works when it didn't before. Boot lock also works as it should. I also found the lump of metal in the second picture in the bottom of the door and have no idea where it may have dropped off.??
I am happy to send the duff lock to @martyuk to be used as spares/donor. Where do I send it?

Click to expand...

Nothing to do with lazy locking on windows

Marty’s lock tests

Andy Burrell said:

Replaced the lock mechanism today and straight away noticed that there is an arm missing off the lock where the arrow points in the picture. This I would guess is for the lazy lock on the windows as this now works when it didn't before. Boot lock also works as it should. I also found the lump of metal in the second picture in the bottom of the door and have no idea where it may have dropped off.??
I am happy to send the duff lock to @martyuk to be used as spares/donor. Where do I send it?

Click to expand...

He's been in NZ since the pandemic started. Try sending a message on his website or if all else fails you can send it to me and I'll hold on to it until he gets back. He lives in Swindon and I am sure one of us is bound to pass by sooner or later.

Grrrrrr said:

He's been in NZ since the pandemic started. Try sending a message on his website or if all else fails you can send it to me and I'll hold on to it until he gets back. He lives in Swindon and I am sure one of us is bound to pass by sooner or later.

Click to expand...

Last time I messaged him he doesn't expect to be back in the UK (long enough to do any work) any time soon. So you'd be holding the lock for a while.

Bix said:

Last time I messaged him he doesn't expect to be back in the UK (long enough to do any work) any time soon. So you'd be holding the lock for a while.

Click to expand...

I think he has a friend who helps out. It does sound as if he's given up on the UK for a bit. Don't blame him although I suspect NZ has more disruption now.

Does anything else in the car pick up spurious interference causing the battery to go flat? Reason I ask is the car was parked up on our hardstanding for three weeks when I was sorting out the ball joints etc this is a good distance from the house and away from any WiFi etc, the car started first time each time it was asked. I then moved it to a spot very close to the house and all its associated electronic signals and the battery is dead flat after four days. I have stuck it on the ctek so as to bring it back but it just seems really weird or a pure coincidence?

Mobile phones, electronic gates WiFi cameras etc all can send a “spurious” signal. Since I fitted Marty’s filter I can go for very long periods without even thinking about a flat battery. The Hankook battery also helps!

cornishboater said:

Mobile phones, electronic gates WiFi cameras etc all can send a “spurious” signal. Since I fitted Marty’s filter I can go for very long periods without even thinking about a flat battery. The Hankook battery also helps!

Click to expand...

I disconnected the RF receiver, just locking it with the key which works fine so don't quite understand how it can be picking up anything . Got a fairly new Varta battery too.