Lock upgrades

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110Weasel

110Weasel

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West Berkshire
I've had a good rummage for this, but aside from the odd reference to van deadbolts that appear to require a certain amount of metalwork or padlock / hasp systems, I don't think I've found an answer.

Apologies if this is one of those questions that comes up time and time again! I won't be offended if it gets a one-word answer, but...

...is there a DIY (i.e. non-structural) lock upgrade for a 200Tdi (110 CSW) that offers any improvement over the standard 'open me with a spoon' setup?
 
There was a thread somewhere (maybe not here, probably LR4x4) where someone had fitted the later TD5 locks - I seem to recall it involves different handles to take the locks as they are bigger and deeper...
 
I bought new barrels (and ignition to match), they were just as bad. I was told the handle were to blame. I bought new handles (pattern and originals), still no different.

I have since fitted central locking, removed the barrels completely, popped a small bolt in to block hole and then a bung in the end of that.

The failsafe to enter the car is via the back as that still has a barrel (and luckily, doesn't open with a finger nail or sneeze). I have a not so obvious method of then opening the interior front doors.
 
huffhuff said:
I bought new barrels (and ignition to match), they were just as bad. I was told the handle were to blame. I bought new handles (pattern and originals), still no different.

I have since fitted central locking, removed the barrels completely, popped a small bolt in to block hole and then a bung in the end of that.

The failsafe to enter the car is via the back as that still has a barrel (and luckily, doesn't open with a finger nail or sneeze). I have a not so obvious method of then opening the interior front doors.
Click to expand...

a durdy theif could still just pull the window down and open it from the inside ;) or smash the glass if they are lazy :p
 
vilguy said:
a durdy theif could still just pull the window down and open it from the inside ;) or smash the glass if they are lazy :p
Click to expand...

Of course they could, but it's just another hassle and another obvious visible deterrent that will hopefully make them decide it's not worth the hassle and move on!

If I can do a few simple things to put off the impromptu gimp, then i'm happier with that. Ultimately, if they REALLY REALLY want it, they will have it. But the spontaneous urchins will hopefully just move on...

...that's my feeling anyway.
 
TD5 locks are just as ****

I've been thinking of doing the same, removing the key barrel and just using central locking. Less opportunistic about having a go with a screwdriver/penny/loud shout while walking past etc...

There are those locking body sliders which arnt too bad
 
I had a keyless entry system in an old TVR once. The RAC man had to help pull me out through the window when the fans ran the battery flat in traffic on a hot day...

Are the remote c/locking kits straight forward to fit to a Landy then HuffHuff? I've only had one experience fitting them to an old Jag and it was a nightmare... Needed to fabricate new mounts and arms etc, and I'm not talented enough in that department!
 
Pulling up the door pin manually still works, even with no power. I've removed my pins but have a secret way of doing it. Shhhhhh.

Central locking easy to fit 110Weasel. Everything came in the kit from Hawk. About £20 from eBay. I had to fiddle just a tad with the window channel but mounted fine in both doors. I'll take some pics in a bit (still got door cards off).

Will eventually get it wired into the stock alarm when I get to a nanocom to test.
 
I guess if the rear door is separate you're probably right Bankz - inside or out you can get to them (I'm not used to having pins coming from a military with sliding window type doors!)

I'd be very interested in any pics Huffhuff, cheers! I reckon removing the barrels completely might be the best security upgrade...
 
Probably not the finest job but seems to be holding up ok and looks nice and tidy when the door cards are back on. You can see the temporary wooden 'wedge' that's pushing the window channel back a few mm (and more importantly, keeping it there). This was needed to ensure the window cleared the actuator and plunger.

cl1.JPG
cl2.JPG

cl3.JPG
cl4.JPG
 
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Ta, looks better in daylight and with the door cards on :)

For reference, I used some cable braiding/sheath/sleeve (like this) I had for the cables to arch the door, cable tied and heat-shrink at both ends and they tuck behind door card and under dash. I have a bit left should anybody want some, I can post two lengths FOC.

I did try the rigid cowling type to start, didn't move freely enough for my liking.
 
Ooh that's proper tidy, good job huffhuff - I reckon I'll have a go at that before the alarm goes in. Were all the wires long enough to route round the usual obstacles? Does the control module have to sit somewhere central?
 
110Weasel said:
Ooh that's proper tidy, good job huffhuff - I reckon I'll have a go at that before the alarm goes in. Were all the wires long enough to route round the usual obstacles? Does the control module have to sit somewhere central?
Click to expand...

I went with THIS which has 4 actuators. I was originally going to do the rear door and thought i'd have the other as a spare (as the entire kit only cost £20). One of the actuators is the 'master' and the book said put it on the drivers side. The reason for this is by putting in the key and turning, it releases the actuators which then pops the other doors. So, if the fob runs out, you can still open all doors from drivers door in one move.

The cable lengths aren't great and I think I would have had to extend it for the back door in the 90. The control box sits under the upper carpet/rubber trim above the pedals and cables run under there across to the other side (you could spend more time properly fitting the cables, but this was the old 'temporary' but turned out permanent) solution. The extra cable for the third and fourth actuator is coiled and hidden up in the same place but on the passenger side. I guess you could just cut these off if you're not going to use them.

There is a cable to connect to your existing alarm so you can operate this central locking with your alarm fob (another reason I have the control box where it is as it's in very close proximity to the AS10 unit).

Hope that helps. To be fair, everything is in the box and the instructions are fairly simple. You just need to fiddle with the bracket to make sure it clears the window when it's down. Test this fully and you want some clearance, if it rubs the unit or even the rubber boot, it may be pop the doors open and locked when you wind the window up or down. Also, check the door cards fit with it all in place before giving yourself a pat on the head.
 
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I am in the middle of a similar job with the same kit, but inc an alarm. So far I have central locking on the drivers door as it didn't have a barrel. I'll do the rest at some point...

My installation isn't quite right, the actuator doesn't quite unlock it enough, so if you pull the interior handle it locks again, but it is close enough for now and works fine from the outside.

I agree, the wires are too short. I went a lazier route than you and routed the wires under the floor mats, but that is cause my control box is under the centre cubby.
 
I had the same thing. Just a slight budge up (or down) the bracket worked for me. It needs to be fine-tuned a bit. Luckily the holes are elongated so you can just loosen the screws and slide for adjustment.
 
huffhuff said:
I had the same thing. Just a slight budge up (or down) the bracket worked for me. It needs to be fine-tuned a bit. Luckily the holes are elongated so you can just loosen the screws and slide for adjustment.
Click to expand...

I decided that I had taken the door card on and off so many times that I would leave it for now!

I did take the opportunity to put a load of sound proofing on both the back of the door card and the inside of the door.
 
Ignoring the 'how do you get in when the battery dies if you've removed the lock barrels?' question, has anybody done anything with the back door? Either in terms of securing it or hooking it up to central locking?
 
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