Link to video of injector/crank issue

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MGT

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SOLVED. If anyone sees this (see video) it could be high pressure fuel pump needs replacing.. See posts below from esteemed members for advice on what to do..

Hopefully link works

If anyone knows what is causing this I'd be grateful for pointers. As the video shows, engine turns over but won't start. Took manifold off and saw this.


 
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Nodge68 said:
It's got an inlet valve that isn't sealing correctly.
Click to expand...
Thanks. So is that enough to stop it starting? If the inlet valve isn't sealing then presumably I would be losing that cylinder and only firing on 3?
I wonder what caused it. I did hear a pretty loud knock weeks ago now when I began to get the smoking problems. I've not encountered this before. That's what I like about land rovers - you fix one thing then a brand new thing breaks before you've had time to plan something different for the weekend.
 
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It should still start on 3 cylinders. I drove my FL2 for a whole year with an inlet valve leaking like that. Ok it wasn't ideal, but it ran well enough to drive until a decent head came along.

It could be that a piece of carbon has come off the inlet manifold and got trapped under the valve, keeping it slightly open. Have you looked into the port with a torch? You might see the cause of the issue.
The smoke is interesting, as that suggests it's firing to some extent. It couldn't fire if there's no fuel being injected, unless it's picking up oil from the crankcase or leaking inlet valve stem seal.
It's actually rather odd.
Have you tried starting fluid.
 
Haven;t tried starting fluid.

I cracked the unions to make sure diesel was getting as far as the injectors. I did have diesel in the oil, but I drained much of that off before trying to start it again after replacing HPFP regulator (that was to try to cure clouds of grey/blue smoke)

I have just replaced all four injectors in case that helped remove the grey smoke issue. I took them straight out of a donor engine that has done less miles.
I did reuse the copper washers after annealing them and they were far from tight on the injector nozzle - slipped off into the injector well when I lowered the injectors. Maybe I'm not getting a good seal down there.

I will do that check, thanks.
 
It that smoke coming out of the EGR pipe too? Looks like it's puffing on every stroke. I know very little about engines like this so that could be normal in a situation like this, just thought it's worth a mention.
 
Juzza6720 said:
It that smoke coming out of the EGR pipe too? Looks like it's puffing on every stroke. I know very little about engines like this so that could be normal in a situation like this, just thought it's worth a mention.
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Yes, that's true. Thanks. I hadn't paid much attention to that. I was fixated on the one injector but the pulse pattern from the EGR pipe indicates all four are firing. This is proving quite difficult to sort out.
 
MGT said:
Yes, that's true. Thanks. I hadn't paid much attention to that. I was fixated on the one injector but the pulse pattern from the EGR pipe indicates all four are firing. This is proving quite difficult to sort out.
Click to expand...
One thing to mention, is the MAP sensor plugged in for this test? Sometimes the ECM won't allow the engine to start if there's no signal for the MAP.

Did you replace the engine oil that was diesel contaminated?
 
Nodge68 said:
One thing to mention, is the MAP sensor plugged in for this test? Sometimes the ECM won't allow the engine to start if there's no signal for the MAP.

Did you replace the engine oil that was diesel contaminated?
Click to expand...
No, the map sensor wasn't plugged in for the test, but after the test I replaced the inlet manifold and plugged the map sensor back in, and still turning over without starting. I have not replaced engine oil yet - I drained enough to take the level to the lowest bark on the dip stick to avoid getting overrun, but didn't want to put fresh oil in only to dump a new load of diesel in it. I'm going to replace the high pressure fuel sensor next, just in case. There is one other thing - the fuel sensor wiring was partially damaged. One of the wires has been flattened and another had the plastic sheath ripped and a few strands broken. However, it was essentially intact so I wrapped it and carried on. I assumed it is signal wire and would operate as normal despite abrasion. If it is a potential cause I can splice new wires in.
 
If there's fuel getting into the sump oil, you might also need to do the high pressure pump seals rather than just the regulator seals.
 
I've just read post #8 again. If you're getting diesel into the oil, then you'll need a replacement HP pump as the input shaft seal has failed. As suggested above, replacing th regulator seals isn't going to help with oil contamination. Regulator seals leaking will prevent starting though, which could be your issue here.
 
Nodge68 said:
I've just read post #8 again. If you're getting diesel into the oil, then you'll need a replacement HP pump as the input shaft seal has failed. As suggested above, replacing th regulator seals isn't going to help with oil contamination. Regulator seals leaking will prevent starting though, which could be your issue here.
Click to expand...
Thanks Nodge. I've got a HP pump on the donor engine. The fault on the inlet valve seems to have cleared for the moment, and it very nearly fired after I changed the hp pressure sensor. I'm wondering whether the no starting may be because the battery isn't holding enough charge now. It measures 12.96 when I charge it but it drains very quickly now. I've already replaced the HP regulator.
 
pwood999 said:
Doing the seals is quite easy. Get a genuine Bosch seal kit. The long part is getting the pump out, but you must use the correct tool.
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I've ordered that tool. Thanks. If you don't mind another question, I've just watched a video on how to remove the HPFP, which made sense except for the bit about locking the engine with a bolt. My knowledge is obviously pretty limited - I learn as I do things - and I couldn't see from the video where that bolt goes in. I suppose I can experiment with the engine I have on the bench, but I would rather not mess that up.
 
MGT said:
I've ordered that tool. Thanks. If you don't mind another question, I've just watched a video on how to remove the HPFP, which made sense except for the bit about locking the engine with a bolt. My knowledge is obviously pretty limited - I learn as I do things - and I couldn't see from the video where that bolt goes in. I suppose I can experiment with the engine I have on the bench, but I would rather not mess that up.
Click to expand...
The tool holds the drive sprocket in place, so the pump can be removed without the timing chain falling into the sump. Basically you remove the plug from the timing cover, which exposes the centre of the HPFP drive sprocket. The nut holding the sprocket to the HPFP shaft needs removing next. Once the nut is removed removed, the outer section of the tool is screwed into the thread inside the sprocket which keeps it in place. Once the sprocket is retained by the outer section, the inner section is used as a press to push the HPFP shaft out of the drive sprocket. Before pressing the shaft out, the 3 mounting nuts holding the HPFP to the block need removing. Once those are free, the centre section of the tool is tightened, pressing the HPFP shaft out the sprocket. One thing to remember, the outer section of the tool must never be removed unless the HPFP is installed into the block, or the timing chain will end up in the sump.
 
Nodge68 said:
The tool holds the drive sprocket in place, so the pump can be removed without the timing chain falling into the sump. Basically you remove the plug from the timing cover, which exposes the centre of the HPFP drive sprocket. The nut holding the sprocket to the HPFP shaft needs removing next. Once the nut is removed removed, the outer section of the tool is screwed into the thread inside the sprocket which keeps it in place. Once the sprocket is retained by the outer section, the inner section is used as a press to push the HPFP shaft out of the drive sprocket. Before pressing the shaft out, the 3 mounting nuts holding the HPFP to the block need removing. Once those are free, the centre section of the tool is tightened, pressing the HPFP shaft out the sprocket. One thing to remember, the outer section of the tool must never be removed unless the HPFP is installed into the block, or the timing chain will end up in the sump.
Click to expand...
Thanks again Nodge. Fortunately I can have a dry run taking the pump off the donor engine first.
 
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