Lights Coming on when break pedal applied [fixed], advice on gearbox side engine mount?

Recently changed my rear cluster as it was smashed
Noticed last week when I pressed the break it was putting on the front lights
This was a faulty wire that came with the new rear light cluster, put my old one on and its fixed.
Weird thing that.

Anyway I have just serviced my Lseries 2.0 D and its running sweet, over 200k miles. replaced pretty much all of the suspension, recond the starter motor myself with a kit off ebay, new battery obviously all the belts including the timing chain and pulleys. Im running in two wheel drive at the moment as my vcu was ****ed but apart from that its great. Never let me down once. The only issues i ever seem to have are electrical but its a 1998 car is 17 years old. Flys through the MOT every year odd spots of welding and running without a maf. Pulls really strong great cars dont beleive the bad hype. Also not a spot of rust on it and paintwork looks brand new never hardly ever clean it and its seen its fair share of mud and off road when it had 4x4 working. I love my freelander.

Only thing i have an issue with at the moment is the gearbox side engine mountain has gone and its maindealer only part £250 anyone know if you can buy new bushes to put in, iv not had it off as i couldnt but the part but replaced all others engine is twisting a bit only noticed when took off the prop so assuming this was taking alot of the strain, and also why my rear prop bushes went every year not that they are expensive.

anyone have a fix for that mountain would be a great help cant seem to find a good one at scrappers they all seem ****ed. Seen before people tallking about polly bushes is it possible to take the bushes out of the old mountain unit and put in new rubber or a polly replacement?

You sound as happy with your L Series as I am with mine

Such a shame the L Series only lasted a couple of years in Freelander, and even more of a shame LR/Rover didn't go on to complete the new range of TD5/TD4/TD6 before the bloody Germans took over.

In 5 years mine has only not got me home once - and that turned out to be a silly little $10 leak back hose. Even then, once I got it home and had a look over it, the oil filter was just about to separate itself from the car. So that little component that threw some smoke out the bonnet to tell me something was up - saved the engine - it was like it had a life and is enjoying it to much to "go now"

The sun here, as well as giving Kiwis the highest rate of skin cancer in the world, also destroys car paintwork. Most D1s here are now driving around looking like poor quality chocolate that has that white sheen to it - especially on the roof and bonnet. Freelanders appear to be doing better - but I supose they may look the same in another 5 years. Mine though has various random patches where the gel coat has gone - I believe this happened at the beach one day when the kids were putting sun screen on and leaning against the car. I'm sure the sun screen took the gel coat off the car!

Is this not the bit you need for the engine mount....

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-KKB102480

They do an aftermarket one at 1/2 the price - but I'd have though it safer to use the genuine part for the engine mount.

Not come across a faulty box mount. Normally the engine rocking is because the lower tie bar large bush has failed. These are about £50 for a replacement part or the polyurethane uprated bush used in various Rover cars work well in the Freelander

stop and tail light bulb, when the 2 filaments touch it brings the side lights on with the brake lights

Nodge68 said:

Not come across a faulty box mount. Normally the engine rocking is because the lower tie bar large bush has failed. These are about £50 for a replacement part or the polyurethane uprated bush used in various Rover cars work well in the Freelander

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Is this instead of replacing the whole tie bar @Nodge68 ? ie this polyurethene bush can be pressed into the tie bar? Or were you talking engine mount? Info would be great as I could really do with being in the market for 2 tie bars and they're big to ship from the UK (as @htr has had to do this month!)

Agree with redwood, wrong bulb put in, single pole instead of double pole.

GrumpyGel said:

Is this instead of replacing the whole tie bar @Nodge68 ? ie this polyurethene bush can be pressed into the tie bar? Or were you talking engine mount? Info would be great as I could really do with being in the market for 2 tie bars and they're big to ship from the UK (as @htr has had to do this month!)

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That's correct. Push out the soft rubber bush and push in the polyurethane replacement. Engine better supported and no more soft bushes.

Done the bottom one and the top doesnt move you can see it twisting on the gearbox side as you look at it.

I have stood in front of it with my mate slipping the clutch. Its not that bad but just makes the car feel a bit loose

Anyway be good to hear if anyone else whos running in 2wd is having a similar issue. Im going to jack it up and drop the mount out and il try take some photos. If you put a bar on it you can see it moving its not changing it thats the issue

I will have a look at the powerflex site and see if i can get polly bushes to swap out that would make most sense i dont want to spend that much money for the new unit when its not really causing a great nightmare

The one you showed in the pick is a top left mount thats the cheap one along with the other bottom tie rod which is cheap. its the gearbox one they charge loads for

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.p...ounting_rubber_petrol___diesel___freelander_1 this is what i need £233.66

Any ideas on if i can add a new bush to the old unit would be a help, its defo gone the rubber bit in the center has gone completely you can see when you put a bar on it from underneath, the lower tie rod was also gone and has greatly improved engine movement but this is more when you are going through the gears not a allmost knock like you get with the bottom stabalizer but more like that side of the engine is flexing

I have emailed powerflex with a link to the unit to see if they have a polly bush i can put in as far as i can see under the car its just one big rubber bush see the bit in the center.

I dont see why i cant put it in a press pop it out and put a new bit in, also someone must have done this as who would spend 250 on an engine mount. Also dont they do a full polly bush replacement for freelander 1s or is that only suspension

the bulbs were the same as i had in before i just changed the carrier for the bulbs back to the old one so it wasnt the incorect bulb or damaged bulb. But iv also seen people have had that issue

I've seen a V6 manual box conversion that used a modified gearbox mount that was fitted with the same bush as pictured above. There's likely something that can be modified to fit if yours has failed.
Alternatively find a lower mileage replacement as the box mount doesn't normally fail.

I have rung up jon daunter today which seems to be a landrover salvage place, they said they will charge 40quid ( bit pricey) delivered for one if they have one in good condition. Once I get it off I will take some photos of it and measure the rubber bush maybe that will help someone else in the future, knowone else seems to have had an issue with this mount as far as i can see on the internet.

I spent ages trying to chase a similar issue in my K series when running 2wd but the real answer was to refit the prop shaft. It makes sense if you think about it as the prop shaft links the whole drive train to the gearbox.

Makes sense but myself i know this unit is broken and the new one that got delivered today is in really good condition so fingers crossed it works. I will take some photos of the old unit and taking it off and refitting the new one and report back how it works.

Alibro did you change all of the mounts? and still no better?

Got the old mount off today it was completely gone on both top/bottom side you can push the mount back and forward and twist it in all directions. Heres two pictures one shows a visable tear in the perrished rubber and the other shows a screwdriver holding the other side open to see. Anyway new on it and it feels loads better.

freelander1xdi said:

Makes sense but myself i know this unit is broken and the new one that got delivered today is in really good condition so fingers crossed it works. I will take some photos of the old unit and taking it off and refitting the new one and report back how it works.

Alibro did you change all of the mounts? and still no better?

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I fitted polybushes to the large end of both top and bottom tie rods and all it did was give me an unpleasant vibration at around 4000rpm. Unfortunately I threw the old ones out so can't put them back in.
Glad to hear the new ones helped in your case. I think as my car is 2004 and 105k miles the originals were not that bad. The K series being lighter with less torque may not be as hard on them either.