Light bar

It's not wired to the main beam as he is content with the output from the Halo main beam and twin conventional spots, and was concerned that mounted on the roof it would be too blinding for on coming traffic. He also wanted it independently selectable so that if needed he could provide flood lighting to a campsite with minimal battery drain.......but mainly he just liked the look.

20” rigid radiance bar. Wired to high beams via a switched relay so it can be turned off in towns etc. Buy a good quality smaller bar. Easier to mount, less vulnerable to damage and still all the light you could possibly want

mick 1986 said:

Why can’t he use it on the road? If it’s wired to main beam, it’s legal.

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The chances of a full width LED light bar being road legal is minimum to zero no matter how it is wired up.

To be road legal an optional headlight must be wired through the main beam switch.

Must be approved for road use, which means having the correct approval markings on which would include the light function code HR and the peak beam reference number.

Allowed a maximum of 100 on peak beam reference number for forward illumination which is equivalent of about 42,000 candela.


Brendan

leeds said:

The chances of a full width LED light bar being road legal is minimum to zero no matter how it is wired up.

To be road legal an optional headlight must be wired through the main beam switch.

Must be approved for road use, which means having the correct approval markings on which would include the light function code HR and the peak beam reference number.

Allowed a maximum of 100 on peak beam reference number for forward illumination which is equivalent of about 42,000 candela.


Brendan

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Here we go again.

Why does it have to be wire through the main beam switch?

Here we go again.

PART IIRequirements relating to optional main-beam headlamps
Any number may be fitted and the only requirements prescribed by these Regulations in respect of any which are fitted are those specified in paragraphs 7, 10 and 12(a) of Part I and, in the case of a motor vehicle first used on or after 1st April 1991, paragraph 5 of Part I.

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10. Electrical connections–

(a) Every main-beam headlamp shall be so constructed that the light emitted therefrom–

(i)can be deflected at the will of the driver to become a dipped beam, or

(ii)can be extinguished by the operation of a device which at the same time either–

(A)causes the lamp to emit a dipped beam, or

(B)causes another lamp to emit a dipped beam.

(b) Where a matched pair of main-beam headlamps is fitted they shall be capable of being switched on and off simultaneously and not otherwise.

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Brendan

leeds said:

Here we go again.








Brendan

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So it doesn’t have to be wired to the main beam switch? Like you said in the last post? Just extinguish “at the same time” as the main beam? I thought so.

I said here we go again because, you only ever post on lighting threads (as a general observation). It’s not usually that helpful, in that you always quote “regulations”, but being honest, who actually cares about the regulations regarding what “markings” are present on the vehicle lights? Most traffic police I have had to deal with, and the very few occasions of dealing with VOSA, are only interested in tyres and fuel, and speed in the police situations. None of them really go round looking at lights for approvals.

Do you need to say it on every lighting thread? Really?

greenlanebasher said:

View attachment 167745
20” rigid radiance bar. Wired to high beams via a switched relay so it can be turned off in towns etc. Buy a good quality smaller bar. Easier to mount, less vulnerable to damage and still all the light you could possibly want

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Neat mount and good advice. I plan on putting a heavy duty bumper on my D2 and will look at something similar. Cheers.

steveyorks said:

I had one fitted to my Disco and while it gave off great light it more or less mirrored what the headlights lit up on low beam ( although much better). The problem was that I could not leave it on with the headlights when cars were coming the other way as it would dazzle them and when I used main beam it didnt throw light further than the main beam just lit better anything that was closer. Handy in that respect but not quite what I was hoping for. If I was buying again I would try for one that was more spot than flood.

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There are different types of light bar and different types of optics for both flood and spot. Sounds like you bought a flood version.

greenlanebasher said:

View attachment 167745
20” rigid radiance bar. Wired to high beams via a switched relay so it can be turned off in towns etc. Buy a good quality smaller bar. Easier to mount, less vulnerable to damage and still all the light you could possibly want

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Thats what i intend to do but at the top of the front grill in case i fit a winch. I dot really want to drill holes in the gutters for the mounting brackets.
Just looked that one up,£740 on amazon

mick 1986 said:

So it doesn’t have to be wired to the main beam switch? Like you said in the last post? Just extinguish “at the same time” as the main beam? I thought so.

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The wording is simultaneously. So how do you plan on switching multiple main beam (obligatory or optional) headlamps to extinguish or become dipped beam headlamps at exactly the same time without using the main beam switch controlling it?


Brendan

leeds said:

The wording is simultaneously. So how do you plan on switching multiple main beam (obligatory or optional) headlamps to extinguish or become dipped beam headlamps at exactly the same time without using the main beam switch controlling it?


Brendan

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Relays? Not the main beam switch.