Light bar wiring ?

Hi guys wiring up my light bar (when I finally choose one I like) and was wondering if i can just splice of the front lights so that they come on with full beam only or will these need to be wired with their own relay,switch and fuse ?

The best thing to do is use a relay and fuse. A switch is also a good idea. Take a feed off the main beam wire into a relay(pin 86/85), Battery positive to a fuse into the relay(pin 30). Using twin core wire take the red wire into relay (pin 87) and black wire into the last relay pin and bat negative terminal. This way them will come on with main beam only and the flasher. I use a switch so I can turn them off when driving on road.

Thanks,very helpful

I've done the wiring to fit a couple of front bumper spotlights (not actually fitted the lights themselves yet though). The way I have it set up is with the spotlights switched through a relay direct to the battery. Between the relay and light connections are a pair of fuses. The relay is triggered off the high beam feed, with a switch in series so the extra lights can be switched off completely. To be road legal, any spotlights etc must only come on with the high beams. There's a convenient hole on the right hand side of the steering column (meant for the choke on a petrol) that fits a standard 1/2" toggle switch nicely.

I wired my 4 spot lights up to a relay, other wise its going to be pulling too much through the existing cables...

Pretty simple to be fair..

The two single spots i plan on using i will wire to existing high beam.

IamRobbie said:

I wired my 4 spot lights up to a relay, other wise its going to be pulling too much through the existing cables...

Pretty simple to be fair..

The two single spots i plan on using i will wire to existing high beam.

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Are you using a relay for the two extra spots?
To be safe, i also have 4 spots on a roof bar and 2 spots on my bumper. Both are wired through relays with the main fused feeds coming straight from the battery. both triggered through the main beam feed and both have independent switches

Mick how did you do them on independent switches? I wired my spots up through a relay but my switch turns the main beam on also... As I wanted the switch to turn just the top spots on.

IamRobbie said:

Mick how did you do them on independent switches? I wired my spots up through a relay but my switch turns the main beam on also... As I wanted the switch to turn just the top spots on.

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Sorry for late reply Ro., 2 relays, 2 fused supplies and 2, 3way switches. Cant remember now if ive switch the main supply from Batt or the trigger from main beam to relay. Either way, i can switch on/off/on with main beam. Do a search for diagram, loads out there. Mick.

mick the builder said:

Sorry for late reply Ro., 2 relays, 2 fused supplies and 2, 3way switches. Cant remember now if ive switch the main supply from Batt or the trigger from main beam to relay. Either way, i can switch on/off/on with main beam. Do a search for diagram, loads out there. Mick.

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Put the switch (or switches) between the headlight and the relay. That way you're switching the lower current so you can use smaller, neater switches.

dogsbody said:

Put the switch (or switches) between the headlight and the relay. That way you're switching the lower current so you can use smaller, neater switches.

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cheers

Ain't it illegal to use roof mounted spots on the road? Something to do with them being behind front axle - can't remember exact details

I need to use another relay then, i suppose i can jump off the other power in just have switch go to one or another relay..

IamRobbie said:

I need to use another relay then, i suppose i can jump off the other power in just have switch go to one or another relay..

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If you only want any of them to come on with the full beam headlights then - wire from full beam supply up to two switches on the dash. Each switch feeds a relay. One relay for front spots, another for roof lights.
Think about where to mount the relays to run the shortest length of heavy duty cable. Less cost and less voltage drop.

i have power coming from 2nd bat in front of roof lining, two cables coming from the dash both to switch the relay, one connected to the hi beam, one to a switch...

then because the two feeds from the dash go to the same place on the relay that causes my main lights to come on...

Ill use a separate relay for the separate switch

MudHunter said:

Ain't it illegal to use roof mounted spots on the road? Something to do with them being behind front axle - can't remember exact details

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No idea but me and 1ooo,s of others never been tugged either at mot or on the road. Traffic div. might be different though

mick the builder said:

No idea but me and 1ooo,s of others never been tugged either at mot or on the road. Traffic div. might be different though

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As long as they are independently (from the headlights) switched then you are legal. I've got a pair of 55 watt reversing lights on the back of my Rangie. They come on with the standard reversing glow worms but can be switched off so are totally legal.

dogsbody said:

As long as they are independently (from the headlights) switched then you are legal. I've got a pair of 55 watt reversing lights on the back of my Rangie. They come on with the standard reversing glow worms but can be switched off so are totally legal.

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Is there a max wattage for a rev light? I to have 2 55 watt work lights but switch them on when reversing, could i wire them into rev light circuit with a switch in line?

Maximum wattage for reversing is 2x21 watt. The danger about using work lights as reversing lights is forgetting to turn them off and attracting plod. If your going to use them as reversing lights mount a big warning light on your dash.

If you wire them, as I have, as purely extra reversing lights then you lose them as working lights. I've only got them for manoeuvring around the farm up in Perthshire where it's pitch black with bushes that don't always trigger my reversing alarm.