LED daytime running lights & work lamp

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MrWorf

MrWorf

Member
Posts
49
Location
Kidderminster
Hello all,
I've read lots of posts concerning the problems encountered with LED light conversions.
I'm hoping you can tell me that these all stem from the way the car is wired and original relays etc not being designed for LED's

So I'm hopeful you can tell me I won't have the same problems if I install LED daytime running lights or an LED work light if they are all fed by new wiring and on separate switches.

OR is there something problematic with LED's on an old car full stop ??

I did once experiment with LED lamps in the intrument cluster, but they all failed, so I had to go back to normal bulbs.

Sorry if this is daft question.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
You can fit additional LED lights, work light for example, without a problem.
DRLs need to turn off when headlights come on.
You can't fit led "bulbs" in a unit which was not designed for them, headlights for example. Well, you can fit them but not meant to.
 
Last edited:
Anaconda said:
You can fit additional LED lights, work light for example, without a problem.
DRLs need to turn off when headlights come on.
You can't fit led "bulbs" in a unit which was not designed for them, headlights for example. Well, you can fit them but not meant to.
Click to expand...
I didn't know that - thanks for the advise.
 
MrWorf said:
No. All my lights remain standard. And that is my intention to keep them like that.
I just wondered about LED daytime running lights, and a LED work light at the back.
Click to expand...
work light just wire and go, no relay required just sowcth and fise,
DRL's you can wire a relay to close when ign is on, simples job done.
Depending on the DRL's current draw you can even just wire straight into side lights if you want them on with side lights, if you want just DRLs's then as above relay / ign



Most of what you have read i suspect relates to indicator relays, you need a LED one if you want Led indicators, the dont draw enough current for the bi-metallic spring to function in the indicator relay, never a good idea to use load resistors. you can get a LED relay cheap as chips.
 
MrWorf said:
No. All my lights remain standard. And that is my intention to keep them like that.
I just wondered about LED daytime running lights, and a LED work light at the back.
Click to expand...
The LED work light in the back.
I fitted one of those. I ran a live from the fag lighter socket (AUX power) through a 5A fuse to a switch, up the side of the window, along the inside gutter to the back where I connected it to the + on the lamp. The 'gnd' I connected to the roof.
Press the switch and they are on, press the switch again or take the key out and they go off.
I fitted an illuminated switch after I left them on a few times in the day, the light makes gutting rabbits and reversing out the drive at night much easier.

LED running lights ??
Not sure about them, why do you need them ?
I use my side lights, I turn them on every time I start the engine.
I drive a 1994 Defender not a Volvo.

Where are you planning on fitting these lights ?
 
miktdish said:
Where are you planning on fitting these lights ?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advise on the work-lamp.
I WAS thinking of fixing them to the front face of the bumper. They are just small 'panel mount' style round LED's (18mm I think).
But maybe you're right.
Perhaps the test should be ........ If you I don't actually need them, they must be just 'bling' :)
 
miktdish said:
LED running lights ??
Not sure about them, why do you need them ?
I use my side lights, I turn them on every time I start the engine.
I drive a 1994 Defender not a Volvo.
Click to expand...
I complete agree with this. Separate running lights are unnecessary and unneeded on a defender. If you are worried about being seen put your side lights on as @miktdish does. If you are really worried about being seen put the headlights on as the military are required to do.

I have just fitted led headlights and trucklite no longer make the unit (at least that I could see in the country to buy) that does not have integrated daytime running lights. But did not bother to wire them up and just have main and dipped beam.
 
dag019 said:
I complete agree with this. Separate running lights are unnecessary and unneeded on a defender. If you are worried about being seen put your side lights on as @miktdish does. If you are really worried about being seen put the headlights on as the military are required to do.

I have just fitted led headlights and trucklite no longer make the unit (at least that I could see in the country to buy) that does not have integrated daytime running lights. But did not bother to wire them up and just have main and dipped beam.
Click to expand...
I dont!
His trucks His rules..........,
I dont build myne to please anyone other than me, as such could not give a rats ass what people think, if they like it thats nice if they dont thats nice too. ;):vb-drink:
 
On my old 90 I had brake light bulbs fitted in the front sidelight position (with white lenses obviously.) The dim circuit was used for sidelights and the brighter circuit wired up as DRLs. Worked well and without adding anything externally to the front of the Landy.
 
MrWorf said:
Thanks for the advise on the work-lamp.
I WAS thinking of fixing them to the front face of the bumper. They are just small 'panel mount' style round LED's (18mm I think).
But maybe you're right.
Perhaps the test should be ........ If you I don't actually need them, they must be just 'bling' :)
Click to expand...
Most aftermarket DRLs look **** IMO. Blingy tat at odds with the styling of a Defender. Worse, most of these lights are not really rated as a DRL and just end up being blinding bright un-defused light ****ing off any vehicles in front of you.

There is also a high failure rate on cheap LED units.
 
FlyingPete said:
On my old 90 I had brake light bulbs fitted in the front sidelight position (with white lenses obviously.) The dim circuit was used for sidelights and the brighter circuit wired up as DRLs. Worked well and without adding anything externally to the front of the Landy.
Click to expand...
great idea..... Thanks
 
The main problem with LED lighting is 1. cheap LED bulbs and components, 2. residual current seep. There is only one company that sell high quality LED's that work properly straight from the box, that's Better Car Lighting. Talk with Gill Keane and he'll supply the correct components.

Quicksilver Automotive - Contact Us

The 4Sight Lighting Co.
www.bettercarlighting.co.uk

Gill offers the excellent complete kit for Land Rovers and many other classic cars with an amazing selection of complete kits and individual LED bulbs. I have these on my front side lights, all rear lights and side indicators. They're superb.

Quicksilver Automotive

Quicksilver Automotive
www.bettercarlighting.co.uk

To control the residual current seep often experienced with the indicators you'll need one of these.

Quicksilver Automotive - Residual current drain kit

When fitting the latest electronics
www.bettercarlighting.co.uk
 
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