Leak from rear hub

SnowTrippin · May 8, 2017

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what is most likely to be leaking from the attached pic? For info, this started after replacing the rear brake pads (which were then binding just a touch as I guess the new brake pads were too thick

) and taking a 700 mile trip to the Alps!

Hopefully it's a cheap easy fix...

Cheers, Paul.

jamesmartin · May 8, 2017

stud axle seal

SnowTrippin · May 8, 2017

Thanks James.

I suppose that means I'll need a stub axle kit (should I do both sides at the same time? Other side "looks" fine now...), but what else might I replace whilst I'm in there, i.e. should I replace the drive flanges as a matter of course whilst they're off etc. etc.

Cheers, Paul.

jamesmartin · May 8, 2017

just do the one thats leaking, youll need a new seal a locking tab a couple of gaskets (drive memeber and stub axle )a new cap and a hub seal would be a good idea

SnowTrippin · May 8, 2017

Good stuff, ta very much

SnowTrippin · May 8, 2017

While I'm at it, I've just driven 700 miles home from the Alps and noticed that at motorway speeds (60mph+) there is a pretty loud, generalised grumble/buzzing when I put my foot down to accelerate in 5th gear. If at 70mph or so I dip the clutch the noise goes away completely.

I mention 5th as I don't know whether it's speed related or gear specific, but it doesn't seem to be as bad in any other gear accelerating up to 55mph or so. Obviously by then I am in 5th gear and the buzzing starts.

Could this be a dodgy bearing that's complaining under load or is my 5th gear taking an early bath? The car lugs 700kg+ of people up and down a mountain everyday over the winter and has been remapped, so I wouldn't be surprised if 5th has taken a dump...

jamesmartin · May 8, 2017

SnowTrippin said:
While I'm at it, I've just driven 700 miles home from the Alps and noticed that at motorway speeds (60mph+) there is a pretty loud, generalised grumble/buzzing when I put my foot down to accelerate in 5th gear. If at 70mph or so I dip the clutch the noise goes away completely.

I mention 5th as I don't know whether it's speed related or gear specific, but it doesn't seem to be as bad in any other gear accelerating up to 55mph or so. Obviously by then I am in 5th gear and the buzzing starts.

Could this be a dodgy bearing that's complaining under load or is my 5th gear taking an early bath? The car lugs 700kg+ of people up and down a mountain everyday over the winter and has been remapped, so I wouldn't be surprised if 5th has taken a dump...

could be the rear most support bearing ftc3371 or the gear itself

SnowTrippin · May 8, 2017

Cool, will have to remove the props to rule out diffs I suppose before anything else.

Cheers, Paul.

Al2O3 · May 8, 2017

Which resort do you ski in? Or, do you take people to several?

TorsionBhudda · May 9, 2017

I'd check the axel breather isn't blocked before changing the hub seal. Had same issue on mines changed seal twice before i found that the breather was blocked with crud cleaned out all no more leaks.

SnowTrippin · May 9, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Which resort do you ski in? Or, do you take people to several?

I run a catered chalet business in St Martin de Belleville, part of the 3 Valleys in France. The bus goes back and forth to the village (3 miles) loaded with 8 passengers plus me 4 times a day.

TorsionBhudda said:
I'd check the axel breather isn't blocked before changing the hub seal. Had same issue on mines changed seal twice before i found that the breather was blocked with crud cleaned out all no more leaks.

OK cool will check that out, cheers!

Retrospaceman · May 9, 2017

Took mine to the alps last year, blew a rear prop, an injection line, lower coolant hose rear wheel bearing and a front drop link! Crawled into Calais in front wheel drive (dif lock) and three cylinders after capping off one at the injection pump. Didn't leave the tarmac once! She still made it home though!

SnowTrippin · May 9, 2017

The trip to the Alps is a killer of Defenders! All the chalet companies out here have Defenders and mine was the only one that has made the return trip unscathed... Until now!

Al2O3 · May 9, 2017

SnowTrippin said:
I run a catered chalet business in St Martin de Belleville, part of the 3 Valleys in France. The bus goes back and forth to the village (3 miles) loaded with 8 passengers plus me 4 times a day.

Nice

SnowTrippin · Jun 4, 2017

Bit of an update on this.

Took the OSR wheel off to replace the fuel filter as I do every 6 months, and decided to pop the dust cap and have a look at the drive flange/half shaft.

There is a lot of play between the drive flange and half shaft so I'm guessing that both need to be replaced.

Can anyone help with a shopping list for the replacement? So far I have:

PM770 - Heavy duty drive flanges - pair (May aswell do the other side at some point)
FTC1724 - RH rear half shaft (Bearmach, not Britpart)
571752 - Drive flange gasket (x2)

Just had a look through my Haynes manual at rear half shaft removal and it doesn't show my style of half shaft, just the integrated type. Am I right in thinking that for mine (2006 TD5 110) it is the same procedure as for the front?

Cheers, Paul.

SnowTrippin · Jun 4, 2017

Just looking at this video, shows my style of drive flange (thin type I think, has a circlip inside the dust cover) just being pushed back in.

If I undo the drive flange with the whole lot pull out?

Brown · Jun 4, 2017

Well it's even easier than the front because there isn't a constant velocity joint so you can just pull the thing out and put the new one in. I tend to take the flange out and then pull the shaft out, but I suppose you could leave the clip on and pull them out together. Reassembly, as it frequently says in Haynes manuals, is a reversal of the dismantling procedure. There are some pictures of me doing something similar to my axles here:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/axle-refurbishments.272149/

SnowTrippin · Jun 4, 2017

Gr

Brown said:
Well it's even easier than the front because there isn't a constant velocity joint so you can just pull the thing out and put the new one in. I tend to take the flange out and then pull the shaft out, but I suppose you could leave the clip on and pull them out together. Reassembly, as it frequently says in Haynes manuals, is a reversal of the dismantling procedure. There are some pictures of me doing something similar to my axles here:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/axle-refurbishments.272149/

Great stuff, thanks Mr Brown.

Do I need to grease the half shaft up before sliding it into the axle/drive flange and if so what sort of grease is best? I use Lucas Extra Heavy Grease on the props so would this do?

Cheers, Paul.

SnowTrippin · Jun 4, 2017

Oh, would a new circlip be advisable and what about shims? Am I right in saying there is a shim before the circlip?

Brown · Jun 4, 2017

Yes, there's usually a washer between the drive flange and the circlip.

My current tin of grease says 'Comma High Performance Bearing Grease' on it. I assume your product would be fine too. You don't need loads of grease on the halfshaft itself, because it's going to be splashing around in the diff oil for most of its length. Maybe just a little to ease it through the nice new stub axle seal. If you're fitting the heavy duty flanges, they usually have a screw on cap rather than the push on plastic one that Land Rover gives you. In which case you can add a bit of oil before screwing it on so the splines don't get dry and start wearing away.

Leak from rear hub

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