- Hey so yesterday I was out in my Landy, so I went to start her, turned the key gave her 10secs for the pump and battery to wake up, pulled the choke out and turned her over. She fired away she went I let the choke back in and she stalled. I turned the key again and she turned and turned and then started I gave her some throttle and she ran ok, I went to pull out but she died so I stopped have her some more throttle and she pulled out of the garage. Did she die because I hadn't let the carbs warm up as I usual give her 2/3mins to warm up before I go any where in her? (That's just a little issue I've never really worries about but I wonder if it related to my next issue)
So i had her out yesterday she started usual and as I had already said above, I had driven to a couple places and was heading back and whilst driving I lost power like the engine was struggling/constipated. She was still moving but struggling, Was she missing, I pulled the choke out whilst on the move and she picked up like before released it and she struggled again. No power if I pushed down on the excelerator,!
Is this a fuel problem
A spark problem
Dirty in the line
I'm no expert so any help would be appreciated regards
land Rover 90 3.5 v8 runs ok then become sluggish and not running right struggling to run right
- Thread starter Fredman
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discool
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It's a symptom of 'icing' of a carburettor/s but in the UK at this time of the year I don't think so, so start looking elsewhere, an iffy acceleration diaphragm if you carbs have them.
norseman
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I agree, but with the caveat that the diaphragm issue would only apply to Strombergs not SU's. What's the your weather like, it can be quite cold & damp in the mornings now, ideal conditions for condensation to form on ignition components, even in an unheated garage. Take the dissy cap off, if it looks ok ie not sign of tracking (otherwise replace it with a genuine component) clean/dry it both inside & out, change the fuel filter if that's not been done for a good while. Consider covering the engine with an old blanket - but leave a note on the steering wheel to remind yourself
You could open the hood & run the engine at night watching for signs of tracking & on the subject of carbs (either type) I assume you've checked the dash-pot oil level.
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Thanks very much I've replaced the diaphragm inside the carbs two weeks ago and it runs a lot better, not quite sure where the fuel filter is on Landy regards
I agree, but with the caveat that the diaphragm issue would only apply to Strombergs not SU's. What's the your weather like, it can be quite cold & damp in the mornings now, ideal conditions for condensation to form on ignition components, even in an unheated garage. Take the dissy cap off, if it looks ok ie not sign of tracking (otherwise replace it with a genuine component) clean/dry it both inside & out, change the fuel filter if that's not been done for a good while. Consider covering the engine with an old blanket - but leave a note on the steering wheel to remind yourself
Thank for your reply, like I've said I changed the diaphragm inside the carbs! Not sure where the fuel filter is on my engine as I'm wondering if it needs changing or it's blocked. I topped the dash pots up so there plenty of sick, not sure other wise x
8ha
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on my 1985 v8 90 there is a fuel filter on off side just in front of back wheel also if you have electric pump there is a filter in base of pump you hav to turn base of pump totake it out it
8ha
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hi on lookinneenelg at diagram of stromburg carbs it looks like float needle valves may have gause filters attached to top
brian47
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I might be out of my depth here, it's a while since I've done anything major on a petrol engine, but running OK when cold then running lumpy as it warms up sounds like a choke problem. Does this vehicle have some sort of automatic choke?
My v8 has Stromberg 175's and have been stripped and cleaned they are V,simple inside no gauze filters I could see but have a misfire see my post...v8 stumped.
Cheers Rob
PS I would check all filters and you might already know but LH carb supply's 1467,RH 2358
Cheers Rob
PS I would check all filters and you might already know but LH carb supply's 1467,RH 2358
When you changed diaphragms did you locate the little rubber lump in the slot in the alloy carb body? and did you strip clean further if so did you re set needle correctly and how often have you driven in the 2 weeks since you worked on them.
Cheers Rob
Cheers Rob
8ha
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you can blow out gauzes carfuly with air line
Yeah I lined up the rubber lugs in the slots, I was very careful with the needles and they were clean, can I strip underneath the hole where the pipe lines up, is it possible there dirt in there!? I have only driven it twice since doing it, regards
When I changed the diaphragm they were very clean when I removed the top to replace them. Are those part numbers rod? I changed the fuel filter and the pump filter I check my invoices lastnight! I'll check your misfire post, I'm not sure if it's a fuel problem or it could but the dizzy cap or cables maybe!? Thanks and regards
If ive read your first post correct it sounds like youve only had this problem since you touched carbs ie driven twice so it apears it is a fuel problem.Is it strombergs youve got ?does the piston slide down easily and snap down on bridge?
8ha
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you would have you would have to take off float bowl underneath carb held on with 6 screws the filters may have been taken off but might be worth checking but I don't think this iis the problem but you would at least this part of carb was clean have you taking off petrol supply to carbs switch on pump sea what flow you get is suction pipe in tank all right is petrol tank clean I had a bus once that had a bit of paper floating in tank some times it would run fine till paper partly blocked pipe I don't think this is your problem but to prove it you couldconect suction pipe to some petrol ina can
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