L322 TD6 gearbox service

That'd be great Aaron if you dont mind, do you want to carry it on on here or by email? I'll probably have a million and one questions I'm afraid mate!

heres a few pics of it when i was doing the conversion, feel free with the question mate. it looks pretty worrying ripping your pride and joy apart but its not that bad when you get stuck in.

On first glance it does make you well up a bit doesn't it? Can I be cheeky and ask what parts you had to get, and what they roughly cost?

bumper £150, headlights £950 the pair, grill £90, washer bottle and pumps £50, parking sensors and loom £120, fogs £80, bumper bar £120, headlight panels £100, wing brackets £40, load resistors £20, headlight wiring multi plugs £60, paint £90 i sprayed all the parts myself, theres probably some parts i forgot about but that roughly parts and cost. like i say dear but worth it.

no air horns ?

Cheers Aaron

Where did you get the parts from? And are they 2010 spec of 2011 spec? (not sure of when the newest facelift came into production)

did you keep original wings? just you mentioned new wing brackets

its all 2010 onward upgrades, the wings are the same you just need to cut a section off the inner bracket at the front of the wing and bond in the new plastic brackets. it sounds worse than it is, its pretty straight forward all you need is patience. most of the parts came from the dealer, the only parts i got of ebay was the bumper and grill.

Cheers Aaron

I got some money coming to me in a couple of months so will be starting to look for bits then, got a list so will add to it as I go along, no doubt I'll be pestering you for any bits I get stuck on

can i ask how much you paid for the front bumper and grill?

mrblonde said:

can i ask how much you paid for the front bumper and grill?

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He says how much in his post above !

oh yeah, come off a week of night shifts hippo so apologies

back to the gearbox thread (sorry for going off on a tangent about the facelift guys). drove home this morning, about 2 miles, as i pulled into my road slowly and reversed onto the driv car seemed to lose dall its drive, any ideas? i take it easy at 4am so not to wake the neighbours and car just about pulled intself back onto the drive, but it felt like a manual car does when the clutch is slipping....

what sshould i do first, as i dont want to drive it up the road and get stranded

back to the gearbox thread (sorry for going off on a tangent about the facelift guys). drove home this morning, about 2 miles, as i pulled into my road slowly and reversed onto the driv car seemed to lose dall its drive, any ideas? i take it easy at 4am so not to wake the neighbours and car just about pulled intself back onto the drive, but it felt like a manual car does when the clutch is slipping....

what should i do first, as i dont want to drive it up the road and get stranded

i think i would be changing that gearbox oil and filter pretty quickly, when you drop the old oil out try and collect it in a clean container. check it for metal particals, if there seems to be an unusual amout or metalic looking oil you got problems. hopefully yours will be free of metal bits and just need changing to sort your problem.

Cheers Aaron

What will i need? So far I've got:

gearbox oil filter
gearbox oil (found 20 litres of Texamatic 7045e for £85 delivered, use it then sell the rest on)
gearbox sump seal/gasket

might replace the fill and drain plugs while they're off, anything I missed?

mrblonde said:

Cheers Aaron

What will i need? So far I've got:

gearbox oil filter
gearbox oil (found 20 litres of Texamatic 7045e for £85 delivered, use it then sell the rest on)
gearbox sump seal/gasket

might replace the fill and drain plugs while they're off, anything I missed?

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Have a read of this

fullfatrr.com - View topic - How to change Td6 automatic gearbox oil

looks like you got every thing, dont sell the rest of your oil though. after a change run it for a few weeks then do it again as you only ever get about half the total amout of oil out, probably take a few changes before you mange to get it all nice and fresh. after three flushes i change mine once a year now, so far no gearbox problems, im finding some wood to touch after saying that.

nicedayforit said:

Have a read of this

fullfatrr.com - View topic - How to change Td6 automatic gearbox oil

Click to expand...

Probably worth pointing out that the refill procedure is incorrect in this article. The engine must be idling while the final level is set to ensure that the torque converter, valve block & oil cooler are all full. This guy removed the filler plug with the engine stopped and let the fluid spill out, leaving the fluid level too low. The fluid temperature must be between 35 and 45 deg. C when the level is set.

In the article he also fits a cheap filter which is a pattern part – you should try to get hold of the original ‘properly engineered’ component made by Filtran in Germany.

Bemble said:

Probably worth pointing out that the refill procedure is incorrect in this article. The engine must be idling while the final level is set to ensure that the torque converter, valve block & oil cooler are all full. This guy removed the filler plug with the engine stopped and let the fluid spill out, leaving the fluid level too low. The fluid temperature must be between 35 and 45 deg. C when the level is set.

In the article he also fits a cheap filter which is a pattern part – you should try to get hold of the original ‘properly engineered’ component made by Filtran in Germany.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments, having bought one of these things recently a gearbox oil change is top of my list.
Now I can do it properly

Cheers guys

Spoke to my local LR dealer and the filter is £105+vat, and gasket is £25+vat!!
Seen filter on britishparts for £60ish, and on ebay looks like same part from a seller, any preference?

Also when asking how much oil, they LR guy said either 9.5litres without changing oil in torque convertor, or 11litres if changing that too, is it worth doing? Or does the 'dual flush' method Aaron mentions clean the torque convertor out too?

also, will I get enough room under it on 'off road' setting, or do I need ramps?