L322 td6 2003 starting woe's

my L322 is breaking my heart at the moment, she is well maintained and in above average condition, but she is failing to start. In Decemberlast she had a new battery fitted, and a new final stage resistor fitted. As the battery was going flat. Anyway everything has been I be in till this last two weeks, it's going flat again, very, very quickly. I got one of these small testers test plug into cigarette socket, this morning after charging and running to the shop, the battery read 14.1v at tick over. After turning the engine off it went yo 12.1v right away and within 5 minuets it was ar 10.1v and still going down, eventually after 10 minuets it was at 6.8v and I stopped the test.
Is thus the battery at fault? As if this was a power drain, I nest tests fast, seriously fast and surprised it's not in flames!!! Can anyone help and advise? Thanks

Check whether your tailgate light goes off.
Often the contact fails.if it is not that, put your ammeter on the battery + and tell me what you get after X minutes.

Then start pulling fuses.
Suspects are interior lights, entertainment system especially if aftermarket, door switches etc

I will help I know the normal values.

anitarrc said:

Check whether your tailgate light goes off.
Often the contact fails.if it is not that, put your ammeter on the battery + and tell me what you get after X minutes.

Then start pulling fuses.
Suspects are interior lights, entertainment system especially if aftermarket, door switches etc

I will help I know the normal values.

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Hi there, I purchased a meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter soviet, this reads the battery voltage as you Go along. After an all night charge the battery read 12.1, once started the battery showed 14.1 - 14.2, constantly while driving along, once stopped at tick over it read 14.1. Once switch off it fell to 12.1 right away, within 5minuets it was at 10.1, then after 10 minuets it was at 6.8, I then dropped the testing.

I then charged the battery again, and bardic all got the same 12.1 at tick over, I then switched off the engine, placed the meter on a couple Gareth don't cite attached to crocodile clips and connected this yo the battery, after 5 minuets the battery fell from 12.1 to 10.8, after ten minuets it fell to 8.4. I'm no electronic guru, but am I righ in thinking the new battery has failed?

Also, there are several things on the L322 that are not worked now I.e. Rear wash wipe, front headlamp wash wipe, drivers seat adjustment and all cigarette lighter, all interior lights work as they should, including the rear luggage space.

It really annoys me that I am physically unable to work on my own car, stuck in a wheel chair does not bode well for mechanical repairs and restoration. This battery going flat seems to be a fault if this Range Rover series, sadly, as we love the car but non starting for a guy in my position can be dive stating, I do have a large high power srarting pack so it always gets me going, but it's so difficult to use it, as you can imagine, the battery or power points are hard to reach from my chair. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Neil

By the way. The entertainment system us ok, as are the door switches, one thing though, which I find strange, when I try to start the car, and the battery dies while trying, you get the dead battery click but the nearside rear window opens fully every time the battery fails while trying to start the car, strange one to me?

Aaaaaa.
Now I have no idea because Brits drive me crazy with their inside and nearsude and off side.
Doesn't matter.
If this translates to left, or right, check the respective window position switches and the contact that tells you it is there, usually on the winder.
I would love to sort it for you but I'm in Central America

With 12.1 volts that battery is goosed, and with low voltage an l322 will start to do all sorts of random things
a good battery should read nearer 13 volts.

Hi guys, I thought I would update my problems, and thank all those he suggested things and gave advice, well guys it turned out to me my new battery that was totally gone, my wonderful £150.00 all singing all dancing battery lasted less than 9 months, at least it had a 4 year warranty.
It just shows that it's worth checking gully, the easy stuff, before venturing into the electrical guts of your car. I had the battery fully checked to and it was certainly gone. I was surprised that a extra heavy duty quality Exide battery failed, bet I suppose and electrical product can fail. So girl two weeks now my new battery gas not kept me down, starting stronger than ever, no more jump starting first thing in the morning! I at last gave my lovely Range Rover back!,
Thanks gif all your help and advice guys!,

Nonne said:

Hi guys, I thought I would update my problems, and thank all those he suggested things and gave advice, well guys it turned out to me my new battery that was totally gone, my wonderful £150.00 all singing all dancing battery lasted less than 9 months, at least it had a 4 year warranty.
It just shows that it's worth checking gully, the easy stuff, before venturing into the electrical guts of your car. I had the battery fully checked to and it was certainly gone. I was surprised that a extra heavy duty quality Exide battery failed, bet I suppose and electrical product can fail. So girl two weeks now my new battery gas not kept me down, starting stronger than ever, no more jump starting first thing in the morning! I at last gave my lovely Range Rover back!,
Thanks gif all your help and advice guys!,

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Exide is just a brand name these days. Hankook are much better in my personal experience and less expensive.

Glad to hear you are sorted and happy owner again

How much of your non working stuff came back?

it would be a good time to sort out the headlight wash/wipe, it can give you trouble apparently.
i know somebody here had problems, but can’t remember who.
Worth a bit of a search on here.

j

What have been saying for years and years......?

Rule number one for Range Rover fault finding..........

Any idea what type/power battery you have?

Common for L322 need new battery every few years. Good to hear you are sorted

Good point about type and rating of battery if its a vogue trim model it needs a bigger battery than comes up on most charts at the motor factors.

I don’t know what a TD6 will take but drink more elec than a P38.
Upgrading to a 1000cca 120Ah on a P38 changed everything reliability wise. I’m glad Datatek took the time to convince me, I’d still be chasing ghosts and running them flat cranking hotstarts.