L322 Electrical Problem

sestorious said:

Cheers mate ! Does renewing your ignition switch mean you need a new key and it programming ?

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Nope mate,
Your not renewing the barrel ,
Just the electrical switch that its connected too!
Look on a copy of RAVE. It will show you the part

Could this cause a transfer fail safe light to come on to?

Low Volts will cause massive havoc on the L322 (and P38 for that matter!)

And I think you mean TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG .....which is for the Main Gearbox (Transmission) rather than the Transfer Box...

OK, Jump Starting. Precautions : Your Battery is 11.5Volts that is flat. If it was 10volts or lower it could be a cell gone down on it. Then it needs a good charge from a trickle charger NOT a booster. VOLTAGE Surge : When you jump a vehicle with modern electronics you must do it carefully. Both vehicles should be not running 2. attach leads as shown on the package, neg to neg -2-. and positive to positive +2+. Start the good car first.3. allow the battery to equalize for a few minutes. (Think of two tanks of water, one brimmed and the other needing more water. the jump leads are a pipe connecting them both. The levels balance after the pipe[leads] flows enough water through) Ok, you can now turn on the ignition system on the sick motor. try to start it. Go through the handbook if there is a set method to sync the immobiliser and then the engine is running, use a multi meter at the battery Charging is 12.5Volts and higher, a really flat battery will charge at 14volts. French alternators can exceed that voltage. a bad regulator can charge at 17volts.

Additional : Jump starting can blow fuses on your sick motor, one presumes it has the same warning centre as the P38 and you get Fuse number ?? blown coming up. But that is no guarantee of a good fuse, using a meter with the blade fuse with the two metal parts at the top, you can attach the digital meter on the 20volts scale on to the fuse, red to one side and black to the other, now if you get 12.5 volts on the meter, that fuse is blown. It should show 0.01 or 0.00 a reading of 0.5volts or higher means the fuse is corroded and replace it. If you get -0.01 the minus means the leads are to be swopped around. No problem with a minus sign. It's the reading in figures you need. A corroded fuse can pass enough voltage to fool the warning centre it's ok.

tnseal said:

OK, Jump Starting. Precautions : Your Battery is 11.5Volts that is flat. If it was 10volts or lower it could be a cell gone down on it. Then it needs a good charge from a trickle charger NOT a booster. VOLTAGE Surge : When you jump a vehicle with modern electronics you must do it carefully. Both vehicles should be not running 2. attach leads as shown on the package, neg to neg -2-. and positive to positive +2+. Start the good car first.3. allow the battery to equalize for a few minutes. (Think of two tanks of water, one brimmed and the other needing more water. the jump leads are a pipe connecting them both. The levels balance after the pipe[leads] flows enough water through) Ok, you can now turn on the ignition system on the sick motor. try to start it. Go through the handbook if there is a set method to sync the immobiliser and then the engine is running, use a multi meter at the battery Charging is 12.5Volts and higher, a really flat battery will charge at 14volts. French alternators can exceed that voltage. a bad regulator can charge at 17volts.

Click to expand...

A lead Calcium battery as used in all cars require a minimum charge voltage of 14.2 volts, up to 14.8 volts is OK. 12.5 volts will not charge any lead acid battery although if the battery is very flat it may hold the charger output down to that level for a while.
All modern alternators have a set point of between 14.2 & 14.8 volts not just French ones.
A faulty regulator can produce over 18 volts.