sierrafery
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i edited my previous post since then cos i realised that what i wrote can be misinterpreted
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Knocking noise from front right wheel area, constant 3 Amigos
- Thread starter Jamiegreen
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sierrafery
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What i can do and i'll do it when i'll be in the mood is to record a live ACE data log with nanocom while turning both sides with the same speed then we'll see if there is pressure difference between right and left cornerings and i'll apologise if i'm wrong
sierrafery
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I didnt say it's not double acting cos i know exactly how the actuator is built as i cut one in half out of curiosity few years ago when it leaked and i replaced it... what i'm insisting on is that there's no need for such pressure to keep the body from going up when turning right than what pressure is needed to counteract the body weight when turning left... in the bleeding process the pressure controll valve is opening as the system to send 20 bar(that's the stationary idle pressure) in both sides of the actuator as to push the air out that's why it's rocking evenly then but i seriously doubt that the pressures are even while driving cos with a heavy vehicle with full roof rack the system's pressure can go to the maximum of 139 bar one way and i'm sure it's below 100 the other.... i'll make live tests at a time to confirm or infirm that... and i'm convinced that they are correctly named HP and LP by microcat, that's my oppinion
Jamiegreen
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Alright that makes a bit more sense, so it is actually a double acting ram, there is just more pressure used one way than the other. Thats good to know. And that also suggests the ram should be around half way extended when the vehicle is sitting flat. I'd appreciate if someone could confirm that for me.
I appreciate all the answers.. thanks
Also, if I had any of the pipes hooked up the wrong way, would it show the warning light? Although I think I've got them all hooked up right, but going to double check.
sierrafery
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For how the ram should be extended i answered you at post #13 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...l-area-constant-3-amigos.324326/#post-4149791 if the pipes to the rams are the wrong way there will be no warning light just that the vehicle will act the other way around and it will be like small boat on a wavy ocean....happened to me first time when the pipes were replaced by a schmuck mechanic 9 years ago, then i started to study hard how the system works and figured it out on my own
Jamiegreen
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I know the vehicle will self level to say, but when I removed the ram assembly from the sway bar it is pushed onto the splines on the sway bar, and obviously you can push it onto the sway bar at any angle you want, which adjusts how extended the piston is when the vehicle self levels.
jamesmartin
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as a double acting ram both pipes are as such hp, pressure applied will be determined by dynamic forces acting on sensors enough will be used to try and cancel out these forces ,i would think time valve dcv is open will govern what pressure is actual achieved in the ram rather than avilable pressure in the system,the block itself will have a constant pressure ready as and when ram actuation is needeed
jamesmartin
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ive never removed the arm from the bar but if it was me and vehicle is sat level id fit with ram half way as theres should be no torsion on bar when its level and bar should be free to act in both directions equally
sierrafery
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i might understand what you say but i'm not sure what you mean, sorry, the DCVs are also two way valves and they can let different pressures into the ''chambers'' of the actuator based on the accelerometer's inputs which are converted to g-force by the ECU and all i'm saying is that the upward foce to the body on the curve's inner side is less that the downward force on the outer side especially that it's corroborated with the vehicle's weight too... i'm not contradicting you i'm just sustaining my theory about the pressures in the system also being convinced myself that those who named the pipes LP and HP knew what they meant by that... i'll wait untill the next year cos my D2 is driven by my son in the mountins untill new year's eve but i'll save a live data log as i said then the truth will be revealed
Jamiegreen
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Great, thanks, I'll see if I can move them tomorrow.. front one is easier as I can get it without taking the roll bar off. Probably not the knocking noise but I'll see if I can get a garage to read them, can be tricky when half the people round here still use horses for transport
Can't complain I might even move out here
Jamiegreen
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Little update, took my car to a garage with a OBD2 reader, think first garage I went had a Bosch reader which couldn't read abs codes, second garage had a different one that read codes, front right sensor low output/intermittent and rear left, but he cleared codes and they haven't come on since with a lot of driving. Maybe the brake pad cracking just f**cked with the sensor and it needed clearing. How much does that cost in the UK...well in Romania it's 30 lei (£6) and he checked for play in all wheels, checked steering and for any leaks
Next took it to my friends local garage to have the ace rams adjusted to half way out.. obviously never seen a system like it, but of course he did it, removed sway bars and released pressure on pipes and adjusted the rams, all refited for 100 lei plus a tip (about 20 quid)
Don't think it's got rid of the knocking noise but I'll have to go out for a drive, seem to handle better though, think he said a tie rod was a little loose on the nut.
Next took it to my friends local garage to have the ace rams adjusted to half way out.. obviously never seen a system like it, but of course he did it, removed sway bars and released pressure on pipes and adjusted the rams, all refited for 100 lei plus a tip (about 20 quid)
Don't think it's got rid of the knocking noise but I'll have to go out for a drive, seem to handle better though, think he said a tie rod was a little loose on the nut.
Jamiegreen
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Ran into some more problems, seem to have found the cause of everything though. Was coming down an icy mountain trail using downhill decent, when it failed and got 3 amigos back, perfect timing loooud grinding noise from rear left, although I have been hearing a whine from there for a few days, well thought it was the front actually. got to the bottom of the trail and jacked it up..... lost a brake pad. It seems that most of the brakes on all wheels have at least 1 brake slider pin seized up. My guess is since the pads are not able to "slide" around they are just cracking and falling apart. so right now im driving with the piston against the disc.. although I couldn't remember if the disco has a thing where it can shut off individual brakes when they fail, as first the pedal dropped but then went back to braking well.. on the other 3 wheels I guess. Only short journeys anyway.. But I thought f*ck it, have ordered 4 new callipers, 4 new discs, 8 new pads and new sliders and bolts. Only about 300 quid for the better brand stuff, just have to wait for delivery.
And this disco had a brand new MOT put on it when I bought it a few months ago..
loooud grinding noise from rear left, although I have been hearing a whine from there for a few days, well thought it was the front actually. got to the bottom of the trail and jacked it up..... lost a brake pad. It seems that most of the brakes on all wheels have at least 1 brake slider pin seized up. My guess is since the pads are not able to "slide" around they are just cracking and falling apart. so right now im driving with the piston against the disc.. although I couldn't remember if the disco has a thing where it can shut off individual brakes when they fail, as first the pedal dropped but then went back to braking well.. on the other 3 wheels I guess. Only short journeys anyway.. But I thought f*ck it, have ordered 4 new callipers, 4 new discs, 8 new pads and new sliders and bolts. Only about 300 quid for the better brand stuff, just have to wait for delivery.And this disco had a brand new MOT put on it when I bought it a few months ago..
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