Keys, Fobs, Alarm and ECU!

Hi

I am considering changing the locks on my disco from another one, so that the car I am keeping has 2 keys and 2 fobs and all the locks open off one key.

I am wondering can I swop the alarm ECU/box on the two cars? I know on some cars this can mess up the milage and other stuff but the disco seems to be all mechanical.

If so am i right in assuming that the fobs will still be programed and that fob a will now work with car b and vise versa?

Do the keys have transponders in them, I know there is a date where they became an EU directive must have but I am not sure when this was. Or the other way to ask the question is if I change the alarm ecu will key a then work with car b?

Am I right in thinking that the Alarm ECU is in the passanger footwell? and anyone got a photo of its position and look (so I can identify it!)

Any problems that I have missed? or will I bugger up the lot of it by attempting such a trick?

Thanks in advance.

What model of disco do you have? on a later D1 300 series is on the passenger side up by the glove box and coloured Green.
Same place on the 200 and early 300 and its Black.

Yep late 1996 Disco 1 300tdi. I also spoke to the key cutter we use and he says that only the TD5 keys have transponders so that should make it easier and cheaper at £6.25 a key.

the daddy said:

Yep late 1996 Disco 1 300tdi. I also spoke to the key cutter we use and he says that only the TD5 keys have transponders so that should make it easier and cheaper at £6.25 a key.

Click to expand...

that would be cos the earlier transponer chips are in the fobs.

ratty said:

that would be cos the earlier transponer chips are in the fobs.

Click to expand...

Dose that mean that it has to be on the same key ring as the ignition key or just that when the fob is used it knocks it off whilst opening the doors?

the daddy said:

Dose that mean that it has to be on the same key ring as the ignition key or just that when the fob is used it knocks it off whilst opening the doors?

Click to expand...

It needs to be on the same fob as the key so that it's in close proximity to the receiver.

Ok changed the lock barrels on the Drivers, Passanger door and Petrol Tank.

The rear door looked a bit of a hassle so left it, thinking if I need to use the key I can do it Via the drivers door anyhow.

I tried to swop the Green Alarm ECU! :5bbanghead: Seem to have come accross a problem.

I am thinking the fact one is P and one is R Reg is meaning somethings not the same.


When I swop them the key fob from the corosponding ECU works on the central locking, but with the key in the ignition and both fobs by the ignition it fails to fireup.

Put the old ECU on and it works fine.

I am thinking the best way to do it is unsolder the little board that sticks out on a 90deg angle as this looks to be the radio receiver bit. Swop them and the keyfobs will work on the opposit ECU to original meaning any programming thats not the same wont be lost.

I may be totaly off the mark here but thought it was worth ago. If anyone know diffrent let me know.

I have spoken to a friend who has broken a Rover VI and apparently the guy who bought the alarm from him needed the Fob, Green Alarm ECU (Theft Alarm Unit as it says on my shiny new RAVE CD!), and the ECU for the car.

Some people have told me that the 300TDI P reg dosen't have an ECU but I have seen a lot of reference to the ECM (Engine Control Modual) Which I would say is the same thing.

Do you think this would need changing too? And anyone know where it is or am I going to have to keep looking at the diagrams? lol

OK the RAVE CD seem to be contradicting its self! lol

It says you can self learn (I have read it on here before and people say it only works for the 200 early cars. I am starting to beleive it as it dosn't work on my P reg 300TDI.)

Its the following:
HANDSET INITIALISATION
NOTE: New handsets are supplied in pairs. If a new handset is required, it will require
initialisation to the ECU using the following procedure:

1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked,
bonnet switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3. to 9. within 8 seconds.
3. Switch ignition ON.
4. Switch ignition OFF.
5. Lock doors.
6. Unlock doors.
7. Release bonnet switch.
8. Switch ignition ON.
9. Switch ignition OFF.

If alarm is correctly accessed, horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to programme two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU.

This must be carried out within two minutes.
10. Press and hold down button on first handset until dash LED flashes.
11. Repeat instruction 10. for second handset.
12. The LED will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly.

There is another section that says:

HANDSET INITIALISATION

The Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) must be programmed whenever handsets are replaced. The serial communications line is used to activate the “learn mode” of the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163). Then the handset(s) to be initialised must be made to transmit their coded data to the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163).

NOTE: All handset(s) must be programmed during the same learn mode period. It is not possible to simply add a handset to the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) which has been programmed to other handsets.

When the “learn mode” of the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) has been accessed, handsets can be programmed using the following procedure:

1. Starting conditions: Theft Alarm disarmed and vehicle mobilised.
2. Press the handset’s Unlock button a minimum of 8 times.
3. If the handset has been correctly programmed, the horn will briefly sound and the hazard lamps will flash once.
4. The next handset, up to a maximum of 4, can now be programmed using the same procedure.

NOTE: It is very important that each handset be programmed separately. If the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) receives key presses from two handsets, then neither handset will be programmed.

The “learn mode” is terminated using the serial communications line. If the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) would not accept reprogramming, the original handset(s) will still function.

Is anyone clued up on the "The serial communications line", I am guessing this is a connection to hook it up to a computer or the likes.

I am holding back re soldering the transmitter/receiver just yet! There is also meantion that when the Alarm Modual is new it can self learn. I wounder if there is a way to reset it to new?

New born mode

When the ECU is first produced, it will be in its ’new
born’ mode. In this mode it will respond to any remote
of the right frequency. This mode will be cancelled
when the ECU has received ten valid handset signals
without power interruption.

I am guessing that it may just be a diffrent set up on the Imobiliser from the original to the one I am trying to put in. And the only way round it is to cut the imobiliser from the system by bypassing it or get them programmed!

My 300Tdi has no ecu, my mates has!

Mind, mine is a 3 door and doesn't even have electric windows ... though I'm adding electric mirrors as they break, and I've added headlight adjuster motors.

The 300tdi's WITH the ecu have fly by wire throttles.

The ones without an ECU may still have a small EGR control unit. This is what the deependers have. I just pulled the plug on mine and took it out when I had my 300tdi defender.

1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked,
bonnet switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3. to 9. within 8 seconds.
3. Switch ignition ON.
4. Switch ignition OFF.
5. Lock doors.
6. Unlock doors.
7. Release bonnet switch.
8. Switch ignition ON.
9. Switch ignition OFF.

If alarm is correctly accessed, horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to programme two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU.

This must be carried out within two minutes.
10. Press and hold down button on first handset until dash LED flashes.
11. Repeat instruction 10. for second handset.
12. The LED will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly.




You are missing a bit..........5 and 6 has to be done again between 7 and 8.

And it does work on a 300 TDi, I have done it several times.

IE.



1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked,
bonnet switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3. to 9. within 8 seconds.
3. Switch ignition ON.
4. Switch ignition OFF.
5. Lock doors.
6. Unlock doors.
7. Release bonnet switch.
7.Lock doors.
9. Unlock doors
10. Switch ignition ON.
11. Switch ignition OFF.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Procedure for re-programming Landrover discovery remote transmitters.

Start with the doors shut,
drivers’ window open, bonnet up but the bonnet switch held down (I use a tin of paint or something similar) and the key in the ignition.

The first part of the procedure has to be completed within ten seconds.

Ignition on
ignition off
lock doors (using the sill switch)
unlock doors (using the sill switch)
move the tin of paint, (or release the bonnet switch)
lock doors (using the sill switch)
unlock doors (using the sill switch)
ignition on
ignition off


if you carried the above out correctly the horn should have sounded momentarily, the indicators flashed and the red LED indicator on the dash should now be illuminated. If not you must start again.


Now press and hold the first transmitter button, the light on the transmitter should flash rapidly while receiving the signal from the system and after about five seconds the LED on the dashboard should blink once and remain lit, that is the first one done.
Now press and hold the second transmitter button and the same thing should happen to the light on the transmitter and after about five seconds the red LED on the dashboard will go out.

Job done!!

If you only have one working transmitter you can do it to the same one twice to complete the sequence on the car.

I have done this many times without any problems and with a bit of practice and forethought it can be done in less than two minutes

Lol I did read that the RAVE had missed out a set of lock unlock but I got miffed off by it and thought its not worth standing in the rain any longer! I will give it another go and if not either give up or take it to the key fob man in Brum.

As for fly by wire (I am yet to look into this, whats it look like? Mine is auto and has a diaphram looking thing that I presumed was the kick down. And then a throtle cable link that connects to an arm round a swivel and onto another cable.) Is that fly by wire? I thought the whole wire thing would mean no Cables?!?!?!?

Also could there be some programming matching the EGR ECU Computer or what ever to the alarm? Which is then saying sorry wrong alarm modual for imob?

Has the spider got any intelegence or is is simply some relays to knock off the fuel and starter?

Lol I have tried it all!

Stood on one leg, Whilst whisteling the national anthem and practicing been a nudest and still no luck!

Would it make any diffrence that it was a Land Rover Special?

I even tested the bonnet catch to make sure it was working, forgetting that I was stood next to the bloody sounder!

the daddy said:

Lol I have tried it all!

Stood on one leg, Whilst whisteling the national anthem and practicing been a nudest and still no luck!

Would it make any diffrence that it was a Land Rover Special?

I even tested the bonnet catch to make sure it was working, forgetting that I was stood next to the bloody sounder!

Click to expand...

Yer meant to hum it. Whistling interferes with the frequency.

I don't understand, What has the sounder got to do with it? it wouldn't sound unless the alarm was on, and if the alarm was on you wouldn't be able to go through the re-programming routine. Am I missing something?