Kangarooing td5, engine light and new wastegate modulator

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Starkey92

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Aberystwyth
Hello, sorry for second post to be asking help, but can't find anything searching and want to check I haven't missed anything silly before the garage takes a leg haha.

I changed the wastegate modulator at least 1000 miles ago, and for a good while the landy has been fine. Now at seemingly random intervals, it kangaroos (revs drop sharply and then come back) and the engine light comes on. This is reset when I restart it.

At first I thought it was due to the cold (started just before Christmas) so I let it warm up before driving, but that had no effect. Then it went away for about 700 miles (drove from Aberystwyth to Cambridge and back towing with no problem) so I thought it must have been dodgy diesel or something. But now it's back even worse than before!

Don't think it's the modulator again because it happens at low revs. Fuel pressure regulator was changed last year, as was the injector loom.

Sorry for such a long winded post, thanks very much for any help!
Matt
 
Ive just had a similar problem and it was my solenoid wastegate, if you want to do a check just bypass it and see if it runs fine, if it does then its the solenoid.

Just a 2 minute job that will bypass the problem

Lee
 
Okay I'll check that this evening, thanks :) Altho I'll be rather annoyed if it is as I only replaced it in November! Then engine light didn't come on last time either, and it want at happening at such low revs.
 
mass air flow sensor ?
try unplugging it and take it for a spin , unplugged it will go to a base map in the ECU and drive ok if the sensor is at fault .
dot a definate cure to your problem but may eliminate the MAF from your enquireys :)

Baz
 
So, mass air flow sensor didn't have any effect, jumped and engine light came on around 2k revs. By passing the modulator didn't work either, engine light came on on the second rest run. The odd thing is it will jump, like it's going into limp mode, but at only at 1-2k revs, and them you can still take it to 3k without anything happening...any other words of wisdom? Thanks for the advice so far :)
 
only two things would affect driveability and trigger the MIL:

1. (TP)=Throttle position sensor
2. (CKP)=Crankshaft position sensor

what you can visually check is the wiring/plugs... is common for these sensors to suffer from water ingress

use that info for futrher actions;)
1. The TP sensor can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal:
l Sensor open circuit.
l Short circuit to vehicle supply.
l Short circuit to vehicle earth.
l Water ingress.
l Sensor incorrectly fitted.
In the event of a TP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
l Engine performance concern.
l Delayed throttle response.
l Failure of emission control.
If the TP sensor fails, the engine will only run at idle and the MIL will remain on until the fault is eliminated. Turning
the ignition off/on can reset the MIL provided that the fault has been rectified.

2. The CKP sensor can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal:
l Sensor assembly loose.
l Incorrect spacer fitted.
l Sensor open circuit.
l Sensor short circuit.
l Incorrect fitting and integrity of the sensor.
l Water ingress.
In the event of a CKP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
l Engine cranks but fails to start.
l MIL remains on at all times.
l Engine misfires (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).
l Engine runs roughly or even stalls (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).
CKP does not have any backup strategy and if it fails the engine will stop running and fail to start.
Click to expand...
 
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