Just when you need it to work

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Dorset VogueSE

Dorset VogueSE

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,259
Location
In the petrol station - thanks to the supercharger
Time to consult the fountain of all knowledge and ask for some help again.

The bloody RR decided it weren't going to start last night, just when I need it most as my old man is in hospital and I desperately need a reliable car - I know, why the fook did I buy a p38 if I want reliable :eek:

Any how, the car had been driven, turned off as normal then refused to start, cranking fine, no messages on the dash. As I was feeling stressed and lazy I got the AA out. It seems there is no fuel or sparks getting to the cylinders, there is half a tank of petrol before anyone asks.

The eventual diagnosis was the crank sensor has gone tits up. He deided this by monitoring the output voltage while I cranked the engine. He declared that it was only 0.2 Volts ac when the car needed at least 0.5Volts ac to start.

Now before I rush out and buy a new sensor, can anyone confirm if this sounds like a likely cause to my trouble and if testing the sensor in the way he did is a valid test.

Just for completeness, its a '99 MY 4.6V8 with the thor engine.

Any help ideas will be much appreciated
 
Sorry I'm too far away to give you a dig out.
Are you getting the "Check Engine" light on when you switch the ignition on ?
The Thor is different to the Gems insomuch as the fob sends it's code automatically to the Becm/Engine ecu when the key is inserted in the ignition switch.
More than likely that it has lost the synch.
Suppose you could try an EKA input for starters, followed by a battery disconnect for 10 mins if that doesn't work. Make sure you have the radio and EKA codes to hand if you disconnect the battery. Don't worry about the Windows Not Set messages, it should still start with them showing.
The first good sign is the "Check Engine" light on...if it's not you will not start it.
 
If the "Handshake" is lost between the Becm and the engine ecu., the fuel pump will not run and there will be no spark. If the Crank sensor was shot, the fuel pump should still run and pressurised fuel be available at the fuel rail, remove the "Tyre valve" type cap and check there is pressure present with the ignition switched on to confirm.:behindsofa:
 
Firstly thanks for the replies.
Yes the check engine is lit when the ignition is turned on. I have tried the EKA twice which has been accepted by the car but still just cranks over.

I havent tried the disconnecting the battery option but yes I do have all the necessary codes.

J the Range, thanks for the PM, it was a very appreciated offer. My neighbour is an ex LR stealer mechanic and he has used some of his old contacts to get a diagnostic kit from LR to check it out. If it has lost the handshake somewhere along the line, looks like I'll be investing in a SyncMate from BBS

I will update later if I get an answer as to what is wrong with the bloody thing. I really dont fancy having to dash 150+ miles to hospital in the Disco
 
Right the lad from LR has been round with the T4 fault reader thingy, cleared all the fault codes and tried starting it.

What a surprise it wont start. It logs 2 alarm/immobiliser faults which means the immobilser needs resetting., something to do with the wrong code.
Not sure if these 2 faults are the codes J mentioned above.

Tried the obvious stuff again EKA and disconnecting battery but it hasnt solved them. At least I know it aint the bloody crankshaft sensor.

Anyhow, he's going to try to get the full testbook stuff from work on Monday to reset everything
 
Finally it runs :banana:

After plenty of :frusty: and even having LR's 'finest' around with testbook it came down to lost handshake between the ECUs and the need of a Sync Mate. What a fantastic little box.

If you ever get the problem where a perfectly 'heathy' motor suddenly decides it wont start this could well be your problem.

A huge thanks to all those who offered help and suggestions and went out of thier way to help. You make the forum what it is.
 
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