just bought a smokey series 3 diesel help needed!

Hi all , after selling my 90 last year missing landys like crazy me and my brother have gone halfs in a 1980 series 3 2.25 diesel to use for light off roading / shooting / pay and play days , its smoking a lot though on start up white smoke then under load blue/black smoke was told its been stood for a very long time and fuel pump has been wound up so won't help but any ideas where to start , ? The chassis an.d bulk head are very strong that what made us choose this one just hope the smoking a easy fix and gets through mot emissions ok , any simular problems? And help would be appreciated , thanks , Matt

well if it is oil burning at idle and oily smoke the engine needs a rebuild (it likely needs one anyway) but if it smells of diesel than it sounds like it is over fueling to me. Tricky bit about diesel engines is how much everything smells and acts like oil. . lol

if you need a head for it mate ive just yanked my 2.25 derv enjun out for a 2.5 12j

the head has been fully reconditioned with brand new valves guides jacket plugs and a recent skim aswell

send us a PM if yer need it

Cheers bud that's great will see how I get on

Is it just when its cold it smokes???

If it had just been blue and only when cold or on the ovr run I would have said retarded pump timing...but you dont normally get black as well with this unless an injector is duff,

Maybe a good run to help things free of or is it out of MOT,

Injectors are cheap to be re-coned but pumps are expensive,

Does it tend to miss slightly at idle speed when cold???

Nick.

I have what you just said nick, blue when cold and over run, and occasional miss, do you think it is pump timing ?

Ps sorry for thread jack

Yes that what normally causes blue smoke at cold idle....advancing the pump just a touch normally gets rid on it...

Its caused by components in the valve train wearing...advancing compensates,

Dont over do the timing or you will get black smoke and a noisy knocky sounding engine,

Do you know how to advance the pump.

Nick.

Nope complete noob as far as that's concerned,I know my spanners from screwdrivers but nothing about fuelling, advice please

I used to have a 2.25d till I put a 200 in so I am having to dig in the memory here,

Ok if you look at the CAV plate on the pump body you should see an arrow pointing in the direction of rotation,

To advance the pump you need to rotate it the opposite way to the direction arrow,

First scribe a mark near the base of the pump on the engine block so you know where it was before you adjusted it...just in case you need to go back to it,

Around the base of the pump you will see 3 nuts holding the pump down...but first you will need to undo the injector pipes at both end pump and injector or they will stop you turning the pump...then loosen the 3 nuts holding the pump at its base,

Then whilst looking at the make you made turn the pump the opposite direction to the arrow only about 1mm going by your line,

Nip the 3 nuts back up...reconnect the injector pipes...dont of tighten them or you will damage the nipple ends...they only need nipping up,

Thats it...if it improves it but not fully you may need to go an other 1mm...best doing it in small amounts,

The pump wont need bleeding but may take a bit longer to start initaly as the fuel has drained from the injector pipes and it take a good few cranks of the motor to fill them with fuel,

You may notice a pointer around the base of the pump...thats the timing mark...you can use that as a guide as well,

If your not confident maybe better getting sombody to do it for you...its quite easy though.

Hope that helps.

Nick.

Ill have a look at the weekend, it doesn't bother me enough to pay anyone (unless it was under 20-30 quids!!! But thanks sooooo much !!!

My series 3 diesel went through that sort of problem with smoke that was cured by blanking off the brake servo butterfly flap and fitting an electric vacuum pump.
Ran well for around 2 years then started to miss a bit when cold which I ignored until it dropped a hot spot and did all sorts of damage. If you are getting crankcase pressure breathing up through the rocker box it may be time for a new head gasket they can go by the push rods. People re torque the heads without removing the injectors and miss that line of bolts out of the re torque.

What happens when you over do it ? Because it looks fairly rotated that direction anyway?

Yea its a funny one there is a bloody rainbow of colours of smoke! I'm beginning to suspect injector prob will have a good dig around this weekend thanks for help will keep updated

With an older engine its not uncommon to find the pump fully rotated to take up wear,

The solution is to renew the timing chain and any other worn parts that go along with the timing valve timing...sometimes re-timing the gears will help but that quite involved and not easy,

Also you will find that some owners take the pump off and elongate those adjustment slots in the base of the pump with a round file to give more adjustment...it seems to work,

Is your fully adjusted or can it go any more????

Nick.

Well the washers block me seeing how much play I have, I'll take one nut off and have a look at how much I have if any

Took injectors out this morning and they have a huge build up of carbon on them so put them in injector cleaner to soak , also removed airbox to find it full of oil ! So inlet will be off and cleaned next but explains the awful smoke will keep updated !

Urm the air filter uses oil, it's susposed be there !!!! I'm assuming you have a standard filter?

Yea I guessed that when I cleaned it and saw oil fill line ! Dope! Well cleaned injectors they were black bright and full of carbon I refit them was not as Smokey for 30 seconds then smoking like hell again I advanced and retarded timing a few times won't sit nice in any position then removed injectors again and were black bright again! Also took inlet manifold off and cleaned that up , any ideas what best is for next step ??