jates and recovery set up

weight distribution recovery via j.a.t.e rings, some advice for set up please.
so certified shackle on each jate, what should be used as the 'bridal', and then to conect the 'bridal' to a single recovery strop.should another certified shackle be used?and should strops be used on each jate, so 3 in total?advice pleaseeeee

all towing and lifting equipment comes under lolher so if its commercial all equipment has to be legal.

cheers BoB, wat part of me question does that answer though?

rafa_surf said:

cheers BoB, wat part of me question does that answer though?

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What I think BoB is trying to say is....

If you use the vehicle for business use and are likely to have to use the strops or shackles during this time then they must all be certified to say their strength/SWL. If it is purely for domestic and pleasure use then el cheapo's that are not certified are fine.

ok, so am i rite then bout me shackle on each jate, strop from each shackle onto a single shackle attached to a third strop?

with anotehr shackle on the end of the third strop?

bout that

rafa_surf said:

ok, so am i rite then bout me shackle on each jate, strop from each shackle onto a single shackle attached to a third strop?

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YES....NO...MAYBE....It all depends on your situation and the entry and exit points to extract the disabled vehicle.

If you are in the deep stuff up to the eyeballs and need the maximum strength out of your vehicles recovery points to get it out then YES what you are saying is correct.

You can also use a single strop (instead of the pair that you described) shackled from one jate ring to the other with another shackle attatching this strop to the strop that goes to the towing vehicle. I prefer not to use this method as in my opinion it is unsafe and unpredictable.

If you are only lightly bogged or need to pull the vehicle in such a way that it steers where you want it to go then a single recovery point may be better. When winching or towing out a vehicle on a slippery surface the vehicle will want to take the shortest route towards where it Is being pulled from which often results in a yawing effect when being pulled.

wat sorta single recover point can i fit to the front?andddd how bout on the back, similar approach or different?

i'm talkin jates on rear, recovery or recovering using both points, wat sorta shackle/strop setup

it may be more usefull to drag it by the nearest wheel to get a better start point.

rafa_surf said:

wat sorta single recover point can i fit to the front?andddd how bout on the back, similar approach or different?

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I have 6 front recovery points and 3 rear.

On the front I have the standard recovery eyes. I also have 2 recovery eyes on my winch bumper. This mounts to the normal bumper mounts AND the recovery point bolt holes. I then have a steering guard that is bolted to the standard recovery point and then further up the chassis. This too has 2 recovery points. This means that my recovery points are held in place by 10 bolts.

On the rear I have the standard recovery points plus the tow bar. I use the tow bar far more than the recovery points.

If you fit jate rings to the front of your landy they should be adequate to use for single point pull. You can carry your old recovery points in the back of your landy should you sheer one and then find that you need 2 recovery points to get yourself out. I have 4 spare bolts and eyes in the back of my landy just in case.

oh i thought to drag **** with not **** be dragged:frusty:

rafa_surf said:

i'm talkin jates on rear, recovery or recovering using both points, wat sorta shackle/strop setup

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If only lightly bogged and in ruts single recovery point to single recovery point is fine. If the same were to happen on a smooth, slippery surface on a side slope for example you need to decide what would be best going by the terrain. Double pull or single to let the yawing motion aid the recovery.

Rafa here's a piccy of the yaw effect for you.

The rectangle represents your landy. The red arrow is the direction of pull during recovery. If there is no traction (and assuming the ground is level) the vehicle will yaw so that the strap or cable is taking the shortest route to the recovery vehicle.

The picture on the left represents the intitial taking up of the slack. The picture on the right shows what happens as the vehicle is pulled.

You can see this yourself if you grab a piece of paper and pull it from various places. Knowing how the vehicle will react to the way you pull is a key part in both the safe and successful recovery of a bogged/stricken vehicle.

Oh i see.I use similar "cradle"type stuff for gaining control of lowering wood straight.Its the same horizontel then.So ya can pull straight.i see

cheers for the info ratty!this yawin, i guess would happen on smooth surface, icy conditions....I guess in me head are three scenarios
1) a simple need to be towed (i.e breakdown), or to simply tow another.
2) icy conditions, snow like we just have, light ruts, mud, where I need to be recovered or recover another
3)extreme stuck in a ditch-ness.
with jates on back and fron (2 x 2's), am I right d'ya reckon that they and suitable shackles and stropes would be suitable for 1 and 2. and possibly a single towing point rather than this bridal talk. I think a variety of shackles, and stropes with jates, and the spares with bolts incase of shearing (grand advice there ratty, here have a chip), should be adequate for scenarios 1 an 2. guys feel free to correct me, i'm here to be corrected!

its nice to have some tree strops too so if re-directional winch recovery is necessary you dont kill em by ringbarking.

never thought of you as a tree hugger BoB, but good tip, however re-directional winch recover seems abit beyond me!

rafa_surf said:

cheers for the info ratty!this yawin, i guess would happen on smooth surface, icy conditions....

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It can also apply where one wheel is stuck in a hole, behind an obstacle, a brake is binding, slopes etc

I guess in me head are three scenarios
1) a simple need to be towed (i.e breakdown), or to simply tow another.
2) icy conditions, snow like we just have, light ruts, mud, where I need to be recovered or recover another
3)extreme stuck in a ditch-ness.
with jates on back and fron (2 x 2's), am I right d'ya reckon that they and suitable shackles and stropes would be suitable for 1 and 2. and possibly a single towing point rather than this bridal talk. I think a variety of shackles, and stropes with jates, and the spares with bolts incase of shearing (grand advice there ratty, here have a chip), should be adequate for scenarios 1 an 2. guys feel free to correct me, i'm here to be corrected!

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Yes you are correct in your assumption. I carry more equipment than I would need but a variety of strop sizes is essential. If you cannot put your vehicle close to the stricken vehicle due to the chance of getting bogged yourself and you can't be too far away from it due to another obstacle like a tree or cliff face, you could come unstuck if you cannot get the length right. One of the strops I carry is 75 ft long and 15 ton rated. Every 25 foot is a link sewn in. It is what I use for recovering vehicles up cliff faces or steep inclines. It enables me to shorten the cable in 25ft stages so I don't have to let the vehicle go when the cable is fully in or about to pull a hook through a snatch block. It is also handy as a one strop does all solution when off roading.

The same applies to winch cables. A standard winch cable on a winch is 9mm x 75ft generally. I have just changed the cable on my truck from the 10mm x 125ft that I had previusly upgraded to to 10mm x 150ft. I now have NO margin for error.

with 75 ft of cable you can bird nest the cable (stack it to one side of the drum) without too much fear of cutting through the cable. At 125 ft I had to be careful as I could only pull around 20-30ft without the risk of damage. I can now only pull 10-15 ft. Sometimes you can overdo the upgrading. I may have to shorten my new cable by 10ft to make it more user friendly.