Jate Rings and Bow Shackles

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Stuballsed

Stuballsed

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Just getting started with green laning and going to do some gentle off road (can't wreak the old girl, she's also my daily ride!)

From searchin I'm going for an 8m, 24mm, nylon, 8-12t rope.

I assume some decent, so called 'rated' shackes are best, say 3.25t? Was going to get a rope from ropeypb100 off of fleebay, but not sure if the shackles are up to this capacity? No reply to my querry to him:mad:

Main Q is about Jate rings though. Cast?, welded? or the square sort?, LR original style I think?.

Any view appreciated, don't need hard core right now, but appreciate I'll probably end up in a situation I didn't plan on:eek:
 
Get Jate ring don't get welded imitation recovery linkages. They're not JATE rings regardless of what the sellers call them JATE is an acronym for Joint Air Transportation Executive. and they designed a lifting linkage that was suitable for airlifting Landies. It's from this that the word Jate comes from.

So Forged JAte rings are what you need. and a 3.25tonne shackle will easily take the rope your thinking of gertting.
 
Dude,

Trying to post pics. I want the forged u shape ring, not the square welded one right?
 

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As they said, the one with the rounded edges is the correct JATE ring. ther ones with square edges are made from three pieces of steel welded together. they snap, just when you need them. The JATE rings are a single forged piece of steel, which is usually galvanised too. They last forever, and are a million times better then cheap welded crap.
The ring should be held in place by a High tensile steel bolt, not a stainless bolt. Stainless bolts snap under breaking load, whereas HT bolts will bend and warp before giving way. Hopefully giving you a chance to realise you've overloaded it.
 
Just to clarify the shackle info. The rating stamped on the shackle is the WLL (working load limit). It will have a factor of safety somewhere in the region of x7. make sure you buy good shackels (green pin prefered) the tensile ones tend to open up at the pin and become loose over extended use. Also get well rated ones. 3.75 or 4.75ton.

Its no good buying excellent ropes/straps to use a 1.75t shackle to attach to the vehicle.

A good rule of thumb is to take your vehicle weight and x3. thats about the most stuck your going to get. buy your recovery equipment to take this.

G
 
Some top tastic advice here, cheers dudes.:)

Further to this. If I fit a steering guard, I'll loose the two front Jate rings. So, me thinks, if I'm going to spend 30 quide on front rings, I may as well spend 50 quid or so on a steering guard with decent hooks.

Can you recomend such a beastie?
 
Stuballsed said:
From searchin I'm going for an 8m, 24mm, nylon, 8-12t rope.

I assume some decent, so called 'rated' shackes are best, say 3.25t?
Click to expand...

Your shackles should always be rated higher than your rope.

Failure is inevitable eventually, you want that failure to be controlled. You want the least critical component to failure in the safest way. That is the rope or strop. Not the shackle, recovery point or vehicle.

If the shackle fails you have dangerous metal objects flying through the air.
If the rope fails, the metal objects stay attached to the vehicle, and you have a less dangerous rope compressing.

Shackles are rated at their working weight, those with coloured pins have been tested well above that weight.

Your rope should be rated at least twice the weight of your vehicle and less than your shackles safe working weight limit.
Your shackles should be rated > rope rating.
Your recovery point (jate rings) should be rated > shackle.

If the rope/strop breaks under those circumstances it means something is wrong. Adding more or stronger ropes is not the solution. You are more likely to break something on your vehicle if your recovery gear is over rated. You need to find out why or how the vehicle is hooked up.

I use 4 ton strops, and 4.75 SWL shackles which will have a failure load > 15 tons
 
Last edited:
I agree ^^^

However, i always wondered about them there recovery points on Land Rovers.

I wonder what they have been rated to??? (especially when rusty!)
 
Martin Spamer said:
Your shackles should always be rated higher than your rope.

I use 4 ton strops, and 4.75 SWL shackles which will have a failure load > 15 tons
Click to expand...

4 ton will suit a LR in most situations, but I would play it safe with 6 ton. (300% of vehicle weight, roughly over wheel height stuck).

4.75 WLL shackles, fine.

I thought all shackles were stamped WLL, not just green pins? Can people check their tensile ones please to see if WLL or SWL is stamped before the strength? I would like to see this cleared up.

G
 
I have six green pin shackles all stamped WLL 3.25 T .. which aren't really heavy enough, but have been fine so far. 4.75's are on the cards to buy shortly, cashflow's stagnant right now.

Shackle.jpg


I have a couple none green pin marked SWL 2 T

Shackle1.jpg


And a few D shackles without any marks ..

Shackle2.jpg


The green pins are used for offroad recovery and have recovered a Disco stuck in a slurry pit, with slurry over the front wheels and across the NS front bonnet .. being towed out by another Discovery and a S3 .. ;)

The 2T I use solely for on-road towing, they aren't for recovery, as the green pins often just don't fit a towing eye!

The D-shackles were given to me, they've never really been used other than as a treestrop connector for a winch block to winch around a corner, for which they were doubled up .. ;)

Must admit I doubt I've even come close to the 3.25 shackles limits, as recovery is really about assessing the situation and applying a recovery force logically and correctly .. Brute Force mostly isn't necessary but technique can be. Mind, I've never recovered someone from a complete mudbog .. though I have recovered someone up a 15' grass bank!
 
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