AlbertDefender90
Active Member
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- 955
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- Ellesmere, Shropshire
I got supplied with two m16 bolts with sleeves to suit older bushes but I just feel that isn't the best solution
James's rebuild thread
- Thread starter james6546
- Start date
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I got supplied with two m16 bolts with sleeves to suit older bushes but I just feel that isn't the best solution
I used them with my polybushes, can't remember if I needed the sleeves or not.
AlbertDefender90
Active Member
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- 955
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- Ellesmere, Shropshire
Ian46
Active Member
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- 323
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- Basse Normandie, France
Not much to show today, but got lots done.
Today I have:
- fitted the calipers and brake pipes
- fitted the transfer box linkages
- fitted the engine mounts
- fitted rear brake pipes
- put on a couple of brackets
- made a mess of fitting the exhaust (see other thread)
- failed fitting new joint to steering arm, dented the pipes feeding the steering box
- started on the fuel pipes and breathers
- painted some more stuff
- wrapped wiring loom in trunking
Busy day, now my back hurts. But...I think I can see the end of this
I hate to point this out, but haven't you put the front flexi pipes on the wrong way round, where it bolts on the axle. It might get damaged the way that it is now. Can any body else shed a light on this, is it wrong?
I wondered about this as they seemed tight, but they look right compared to the workshop manual.
Will see if I can find any pics
Damnit, you are right, just found one of it pre rebuild!
RAMBIRKETT
Active Member
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- 154
Mine were on the other way round, the copper pipe goes back on its self if that makes sense
How many times can you rebend the copper pipes?!
Ian46
Active Member
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- 323
- Location
- Basse Normandie, France
'till it snaps. Be careful and you might get away with it.
Hope so, the pipes were bought not made so I would have to order some more.
The annoying thing is that I thought they looked wrong at the time so I looked in the LR workshop manual and the pic looked the same as I had done it. oh well!
Ian46
Active Member
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- 323
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- Basse Normandie, France
It's a learning curve, we've all made mistakes some where.
If it does brake, take the remains to a back street garage and ask them to make new ones. Flash some beer tokens, it'll save ordering them again.
If it does brake, take the remains to a back street garage and ask them to make new ones. Flash some beer tokens, it'll save ordering them again.
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- A bit sarf of Dorking
Anneal it before you bend it and it will be fine.
So just heat it up a bit? With a blowtorch or something?
- Posts
- 9,338
- Location
- A bit sarf of Dorking
Yes. Rub a bar of soap on the bit you're going to heat. Heat it until the soap burns.
It's now ready to bend, either hot or later when cooled 'naturally'.
The cooling is the critical bit. If you cool it fast it will 'temper' the metal, making it stiff and brittle. Annealing is the opposite.
If you have to bend it again, re-anneal, because in bending you have work hardened the metal.
Now that you know this, you never have to buy new copper washers again. Just anneal them.
If a tool tip gets hot when you're grinding it, plunge it into cold water or oil to keep the temper up, otherwise you've just annealed it and made it soft.
It's now ready to bend, either hot or later when cooled 'naturally'.
The cooling is the critical bit. If you cool it fast it will 'temper' the metal, making it stiff and brittle. Annealing is the opposite.
If you have to bend it again, re-anneal, because in bending you have work hardened the metal.
Now that you know this, you never have to buy new copper washers again. Just anneal them.
If a tool tip gets hot when you're grinding it, plunge it into cold water or oil to keep the temper up, otherwise you've just annealed it and made it soft.
Thanks for the tips, didn't know any of that.
Didn't get that much done yesterday evening; got the flexi pipes the right way around this time. Not the prettiest things, but should be fine
Then fitted the breathers to the rear axle and connected it to the TD5 fuel tank
Then started on the fuel pipes and getting the wiring loom into place.
I'm trying to decide whether to fix everything in its final position once the body is back on or to do it now. As I want to make sure nothing will catch on the body. Pros and cons to each I guess.
Still putting off doing the cam belt and p gasket...
Then fitted the breathers to the rear axle and connected it to the TD5 fuel tank
Then started on the fuel pipes and getting the wiring loom into place.
I'm trying to decide whether to fix everything in its final position once the body is back on or to do it now. As I want to make sure nothing will catch on the body. Pros and cons to each I guess.
Still putting off doing the cam belt and p gasket...
Nother small update.
Got my body out on saturday
First problem is it wouldn't fit in the shed
So it is outside my workshop shed for now.
Started prepping the body ready to meet the chassis on friday.
The body is a lot scabbier than I remember! Any suggestions on what I can repair a couple of ali bits underneath with? They aren't structural, but look a mess.
Got my body out on saturday
First problem is it wouldn't fit in the shed
So it is outside my workshop shed for now.
Started prepping the body ready to meet the chassis on friday.
The body is a lot scabbier than I remember! Any suggestions on what I can repair a couple of ali bits underneath with? They aren't structural, but look a mess.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
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P gasket is really easy. Especially with the body off. Cambelt isnt too bad either just line all the marks up and get the belt tension right
P gasket is really easy. Especially with the body off. Cambelt isnt too bad either just line all the marks up and get the belt tension right
Yeah, I think that is Saturdays job. I think it should go fine as long as I can undo the crankshaft pulley and get it off.
Hopefully back on the road in a couple of weeks. FINALLY!!
