Italian 88 Series III - Should I or Shouln't I?

Ok! Got to the point where learning to weld seems like a good idea. I’ve been watching you tube tutorials and it looks like something I can learn. What is a good welder to start with? What welder did you bunch start with? Any advice very welcome!

As for a progress report:
I’ve got all the bodywork off except for the tub, windscreen and bulkhead. I need to get a blowtorch to help undo the seized nuts and bolts on the tub. The heads are all very rusty and slightly rounded so I don’t want to make them worse. I have also had a major garage clear out to make way for Landy bits.

I’ve created an account on Instagran I’m using as s cloud for progress photos and to remind me of what goes where. If you’re interested it’s called series3lady

Mandy said:

Ok! Got to the point where learning to weld seems like a good idea. I’ve been watching you tube tutorials and it looks like something I can learn. What is a good welder to start with? What welder did you bunch start with? Any advice very welcome!

As for a progress report:
I’ve got all the bodywork off except for the tub, windscreen and bulkhead. I need to get a blowtorch to help undo the seized nuts and bolts on the tub. The heads are all very rusty and slightly rounded so I don’t want to make them worse. I have also had a major garage clear out to make way for Landy bits.

I’ve created an account on Instagran I’m using as s cloud for progress photos and to remind me of what goes where. If you’re interested it’s called series3lady

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You want a decent MIG welder, some people think the gasless ones are good now, but I have only used gas. The inverter welders are easier on your power supply.
CO2 is cheaper than argon if you can source it.
Club hammer and chisel is an effective blowtorch for most applications.

Sorry, but I think Instagram might be a bridge too far for me.

Soak the siezed nuts and bolts with penetrating oil for days or weeks before you try to get them off. I use a blowlanp but have a CO2 fire exstinguisher handy, its very easy to set paint or old underseal on fire and the nightmare is when its on the back out of your line of sight.

The simplest way to remove the tub bolts is to centre pop the bolt heads and drill through them so head falls off.
Rears are accessable others at front depends which way they are facing.

Great thread, going to follow this

Turboman said:

You want a decent MIG welder, some people think the gasless ones are good now, but I have only used gas. The inverter welders are easier on your power supply.
CO2 is cheaper than argon of you can source it.
Club hammer and chisel is an effective blowtorch for most applications.

Sorry, but I think Instagram might be a bridge too far for me.

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Agree with Turboman, MIG is definitely the way to go, so much easier to learn than arc, (stick) or oxy/acetylene. Don't get a gasless one though as they are not best on thin steel. a gas/gasless one might be a good idea though. You can save money on gas with the thicker metal and use it with gas on the thin stuff. Join this forum: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

Instagram! The Range Rover mob might understand that but this is a series thread, we all wear wind up watches and judge the weather by the behaviour of slugs. Good work keep it up.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

we all wear wind up watches

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Yes, in the pocket of our weskits.

There are a lot of young folk on instagram. I created the account to use as a cloud and I have about 300+ followers on there which is funny because all I’ve posted so far are bad photos of rusty bolts. I did see this on there which would suit the repair I have in mind for the wings:
The welding advice is very much appreciated. I’m beginning to get a clearer idea about what I need. I’ve got a friend who is willing to show me the basics.
I got the blow torch this morning (I have a fire extinguisher) and a new 13mm socket as my dad’s one is pretty worn out and probably part of the tub removal problem. I’ve been soaking the bolts in penetrating oil every day this week and they do move a bit now. I’ve got a couple of busy days ahead with other stuff so probably won’t be able to do any more work on the Landy until Friday.
Will keep you posted.
Thanks for the advice and support

Mandy said:

There are a lot of young folk on instagram. I created the account to use as a cloud and I have about 300+ followers on there which is funny because all I’ve posted so far are bad photos of rusty bolts. I did see this on there which would suit the repair I have in mind for the wings:View attachment 142790
The welding advice is very much appreciated. I’m beginning to get a clearer idea about what I need. I’ve got a friend who is willing to show me the basics.
I got the blow torch this morning (I have a fire extinguisher) and a new 13mm socket as my dad’s one is pretty worn out and probably part of the tub removal problem. I’ve been soaking the bolts in penetrating oil every day this week and they do move a bit now. I’ve got a couple of busy days ahead with other stuff so probably won’t be able to do any more work on the Landy until Friday.
Will keep you posted.
Thanks for the advice and support

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if your truck was built prior 1980 you want a nice set of af sockets, a mig welder and a 4 1/2 inch grinder with thin cutting discs and flap discs

What are flap disks?

Just joined the welding forum...

Mandy said:

Just joined the welding forum...

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best thing for smoothing of welds and prepping metal to weld

rob1miles said:

Soak the siezed nuts and bolts with penetrating oil for days or weeks before you try to get them off. I use a blowlanp but have a CO2 fire exstinguisher handy, its very easy to set paint or old underseal on fire and the nightmare is when its on the back out of your line of sight.

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If the nuts on the end of bolts are accessible a "nut splitter" is a good and not too expensive tool to use, all you lose is the nut, bolts usually pull straight out after the nut is cracked open, even any washers are preserved, usually the bolts can be wire brushed, threads chased over and bolts re-used with a new nut.
Nut splitters come in appropriate size ranges for the range of nuts you need to attack.

When buying sockets, go for the ones that hold the nut on all sides rather than those that just grip the corners. They are much better at undoing tight nuts that have had their corners rounded off. One of my wings has a hole where the bonnet has been rubbing it when being opened and closed. I've not done anything about it yet other than adjusting the bonnet. My intention was to put a patch underneath the hole and fill it but filler never seems to look good for long. I have bought another wing now which I'll fit at some point.

Col

Having almost completed what you are now undertaking, I kick myself for not getting a set of these earlier in the process...
http://www.irwintools.co.nz/tools/bolt-extractors/bolt-grips

I have a set of those Irwin bolt-extractors and they have been very useful. I also have a nut splitter which I've found useful also for just slightly widening really badly rusted and rounded nuts just enough to get a spanner to stick on them. I have also used the nut splitter to hold the nut in place while I get the bolt out on the other side (it's not always possible to access the nut from two sides). I have now got the tub off thanks to some bits of wood and some wooden crates and the windscreen off (a passer-by helped me lift it off - I get a procession walking past on Saturdays and Sundays - people in the village seem to be curious about what I'm up to).

My next job is getting the dash and pedals off which looks like it's going to be complicated (all that wiring and so many switches) and will need a lot of photos and note taking so I'm going to save that for when I have a full day off.

This is where I'm at now...

Not quite sure how to judge the state of the chassis. The back end is completely rotten and often a big hole surrounded by paper thin rusted metal.
The outriggers look pretty rusty and full of holes too. I think a new chassis is probably the best option.

And so much caked mud, rust and oil...

Mandy said:

Not quite sure how to judge the state of the chassis. The back end is completely rotten and often a big hole surrounded by paper thin rusted metal.
The outriggers look pretty rusty and full of holes too. I think a new chassis is probably the best option.

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you can get a half chassis that includes rear tank out riggers