It starts

While doing the front brakes and suspension I snuck up on the ignition key and the 2.25 diesel eventually burst into live. It will tick over but the engine speed will not pickup when the accelerator is pressed.
Does any one know where the accelerator bit of the diesel pump is so I can check the linkage etc. I have had the pedal off at one point to replace the footwell and perhaps something has come adrift.

i've found the first link from the accelerator in the engine bay, at the drivers side of the bulkhead, was quite easy to come apart on me doosil S3. managed to knock it and it fell apart!! got some wire locking it together now...... might be worth checking all your linkages!

at least you got it to start!

Good idea, as I had pushed the rod back to fit the new footwell your probably right the linkage to the rod has come adrift.

ere Crossa - can yo change yo CP to show where yu are based.

Ok done that, I reside in Newcastle-upon-tyne

It's the flat lever thing on the pump, and has an adjuster stop screw limiting movement in BOTH directions.

Note that TICKOVER is controlled by the screw the lever rests on whenh your foot is off the pedal.

Best not move the other screw as that would let the engine rev up higher, which in that engine may cause a lot of trouble as it may go badly out of dynamic balance and even throw a conrod through the block.

Positive crankcase ventilation is all very fine, but not if you achieve it that way.

Charles

I working late this week so I might not get the chance to look at it until the weekend but I'm sure it has to be the linkage has come off the accelerator pedal rod, well I hope thats all it is.
The info on the pump screw adjustment is worth knowing as I might have been tempted to start fiddling then come a cropper.

crossa said:

I working late this week so I might not get the chance to look at it until the weekend but I'm sure it has to be the linkage has come off the accelerator pedal rod, well I hope thats all it is.
The info on the pump screw adjustment is worth knowing as I might have been tempted to start fiddling then come a cropper.

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Once a pump has been set up, there are two settings that should not be touched, ever.
1. the engine upper speed limit screw. This sets the main governor, and shuts the engine down when you reach the maximum allowable revs. Right up to this speed you will get full throttle and maximum pull. But, even in neutral with you throttle pedal decked, the engine will not (should not) exceed that pre-set revs / speed.

2. the fuel pump maximum fuel delivery screw. This screw sets the most fuel that can be injected, to JUST below leaving a trail of black smoke when you try a standing start quarter mile drag-race. Opening it WILL make black smoke. Closing it WILL cut the power. But it's up to you.

The one thing you MIGHT occasionally need to touch is the slow running setting, but even that is unlikely.

Fine tuning injection timing is a must for all 2.5 NAs to make them go at their best. They really go quite well if they get tweaked.

To make the engine idle faster for a while, just slip a half-a-match stick between the lever and the tickover stop, and that will bring the revs up enough to make the alternator charge hard. As soon as you put your foot on the throttle to drive away the stick will fall out and tickover will be back to normal.

Good trick.

CharlesY

I've been told that once it is warmed up (if I get to that point) then you can slacken the 3 bolts that hold the pump just enough so it can be turned with resistance, turn the pump a little bit until it starts blowing out black smoke (rich) then back a bit until it blows out white smoke, then take it back a touch so it is clear, nip the bolts back up, the pump timing should then be near as damn it. Does that sound feasible, has anyone ever done this.

crossa said:

I've been told that once it is warmed up (if I get to that point) then you can slacken the 3 bolts that hold the pump just enough so it can be turned with resistance, turn the pump a little bit until it starts blowing out black smoke (rich) then back a bit until it blows out white smoke, then take it back a touch so it is clear, nip the bolts back up, the pump timing should then be near as damn it. Does that sound feasible, has anyone ever done this.

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Forget about the smoke part - but the rest of it is close.
Do NOT do this with the engine running - see below about cracking pipes.

Turning the whole pump CLOCKWISE (looking down from the top) advances the injection timing.

You MUST slacken both ends of all the injector pipes before turning the pump! If you do not do this one or more pipes will crack at their ends.

You will get good at this .... carry the right spanners .... persist.

The idea is to advance the pump about 1mm at a time on the bracket enough times that when you deck the throttle it definitely and immediately makes that nasty diesel clatter noise. Then you RETARD the pump one step back from there until it just does NOT quite make the clatter. You might need to do two steps back, but the fewer the better.

This is the perfect setting for THAT engine, on THAT fuel on that day.

Tighten it all up, get it running, and go for a drive. You might be very happy when you get back.

CharlesY

Thanks it sounds like a plan.

crossa said:

Thanks it sounds like a plan.

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It is often a lot of gain for very little pain, and NO MONEY!!!

Way to go huh?

CharlesY