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Is Wax-based underseal a waste of time?

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by lightning, May 20, 2020.

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  1. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    A6C3DEF5-EE58-4006-B01D-83A9A5F6D971.jpeg My 110 was professionally treated with a wax based underseal about five years ago.
    Since then it has been inspected from time to time and the coating re applied where necessary.
    I’ve also regularly sprayed any vulnerable parts such as the rear and front outriggers with rust proofing spray.
    But today, on inspection, it seems to have done no good at all. I scraped off the wax based underseal from the rear outriggers and was met with flakes of rusty metal falling off over the whole outrigger.
    Fortunately there’s no holes. But what a waste of time the rust proofing appears to have been.

    Although maybe that’s why there’s no holes!! So not a complete waste of time.

    This cross piece appears to be just bolted on to the chassis and floor pans. Is it possible to get it out and fit a new one without lifting the body?
     
  2. raywin

    raywin Well-Known Member

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    I am getting disillusioned with waxoyl, slapped it all over stuff when I work on the defender, but it washers off like custard. I put new rear shocks on in October, took off the brackets and cleaned off all the rust then ladle it on back and front, plus the chassis where they mount,,today they look just as they did when I cleaned them up, no trace of the waxoyl.
    It has happened to several parts I.e. the A frame ball joint
    Need to find something that really works.
     
  3. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    What make of wax did you use ? There are good one's, better ones and rubbish out there.
    I prefer engine oil thinned with a bit of diesel sprayed on once a year after the annual power wash. Many say waxoil has gone down in quality.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
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  4. raywin

    raywin Well-Known Member

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    Just the waxoyl used to be called finnergens, but believe it's now owned by hammerite.
     
  5. bluedog333

    bluedog333 Well-Known Member

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    Did you use Waxoyl Underseal or Waxoyl the Original?
     
  6. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    i dont use any wax, just a layer of paint, and i jetwash it clean regularly
     
  7. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    I’ve used various products all wax based and supposed to stay flexible.
    The issue is, the rust seems to just carry on behind the coating.
    The coating still looks fine, it hasn’t washed off or disappeared, but when you scrape it off, there’s flaking rust behind.
    Those outriggers weren’t that rusty when l bought the 110 in 2004. They were mostly still paint.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
  8. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    That crossmember won't come out without lifting the body.
    A replacement used to be available in two pieces which you welded together in situ.
     
  9. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    Well, it’s still solid, no holes, so in that case l guess it’s staying where it is then. I’ll just spray it with grease.
    I recently fitted mud shields to stop mud and crap from getting thrown up into that area.
     
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  10. Blaven

    Blaven Active Member

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    I had mine Dinitrolled rather than waxolyed 3 years ago. Gets checked every year when the old MOT comes up and so far haven’t had to have any touch up.
     
  11. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    Our 90 was Dinitrol’d five years ago, have to say it still looks good, although l’ve not tried scraping any of the coating off !!
     
  12. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    What was the chassis like before the first treatment? Brand new/bare metal/painted etc
     
  13. Galladog

    Galladog Active Member

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    YRM do a galvanised replacement which can be fitted without lifting the body, I did it last year in about four hours.
     
  14. Henry_b

    Henry_b SPARES OR REPAIR

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    I hate the stuff.

    The metal still oxidises under it, i've never scraped off wax and found good metal, even if it was treated with rust converter beforehand. :confused:

    I prefer paint, even if it rusts again, at least you'll see it!
     
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  15. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    Chassis wax is fine, but needs checking/touching up annually, anyone that says it lasts is either deluded or selling the stuff (no names mentioned!)
    The best tip is to add a little clean engine oil in the mix, this keeps it soft, and you can still move it with your fingers a year later, ithe oil also allows the wax to creep better, the problem is once rust is in there it is in there no matter what, and all the wax is doing is buying you time.

    Beware it makes doing anything big on the car a seriously dirty job, just had my engine out, and the overalls would stand up on their own!
     
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  16. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    OK thanks for the information

    That sounds good, l will take a look at that, probably let the garage fit it though.
     
  17. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    Paint with some surface rust. The chassis was generally very clean with no real rust at all.
    Most of it is still the same, it just seems to be this one crossmember that’s scabby, although it does take a hammering.
     
  18. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    Do as myself and others have done and make up flaps that cover those sections exposed to wheel dirt and then it matters little what preservative you use as they don't get plastered in crud.
     
  19. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    I’ve done that.
    However the crossmember is past it’s best so l’ve booked it in to get a galvanised one fitted
     
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  20. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    That will sort it for sure.:)
     
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