Is undersealing just covering up?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
becstar

becstar

Member
Posts
37
Hello! I am a Landy virgin, but soon hope to rectify this! I have been doing some research on what to look for and went to see my first 110 today. A '92 K reg which had done 101k miles. Body was fine so ventured underneath and the chassis been undersealed. I had a little poke around and nothing appeared to be worrying in terms of corrosion. There was some movement at the universal points with some movement on the propshaft on the x and y axis. He said he would replace this before I bought it (I think he was in shock that a girl had pointed this out)!! What I want to know is, I was under the impression that undersealing is only effective if it is done from new. So is this guy trying to hide something? Would I still be able to punch holes in the chassis if there was underlying rot or have I actually stumbled upon a decent Landy??!!!! The guy said it had never been welded (good or bad)???? I am going back tomorrow to test drive it as it is still having work done on it at the mo. Any opinions on the validity and use of undersealing a Landy of this age would be greatly appreciated:) Cheers!
 
Girlys under Land Rovers, mmm heaven LOL
If it has been freshly undersealed I would be looking very hard and trying to find what he hid! It can hide all sorts of problems :(
If it was done a while ago and still looks good I would be less worried.
If it is done properly it should last a long time.
Personally I hate the stuff :(
Being welded or not does not make it good or bad, it still depends on weather it needs it now. It will need it sooner or later :)
Mine had to have a new rear crossmember with extensions and some patching at the front, I did it right and it has not been welded since, about 5 years :)
This year it does want a bit but new areas!

UJs are a simple job, when you test drive listen for clunks etc when you take up drive, try driving on full lock to check joints in the axle, sounds like you are half about on the mechanics so just keep shaking and yanking stuff underneath and hopefully you will end up with a sound truck :) Most loose bits are pretty easy to sort on a Landy so don't get too alarmed :)
 
just get a screwdriver, if its fooked you will poke through the underseal and the chassis. check the outriggers, cross member, and all the other weak spots in the chassis. if the screwdriver goes through with a good poke you know he is hiding summit
 
most confess my jaw dropped when you said you were a girl..

x and y axis... under the landy..check the props... wwooohhoooo!!! what a catch!!! :D
 
girls underneath land rovers................I think I might have to go and think about that in a darkened room:p
 
:praise:

You may all rise doting subjects! ;) No, seriously, thanks for the tips guys. Going to take a hammer with me this time and really give the chassis another going over. I will let you know how it went and whether or not I am still a virgin!:D
 
ringing and thudding doesnt always work when there is a thick underseal coat. best shout is a screwdriver
 
stab it to death with the 'dog killer', particularly the corners/welded joints.

front outriggers, rear x member (from underneath) and the bottom of the main chassis rails all take the brunt of the rust.

A good test drive should sort everything else out. Dont forget to get down and look at the underside of all the doors, have a poke there to. 5 doors are expensive!

sounds like you have everything under control anywho.

If you want another forum member to take a look with you then just shout. someone here with surely bite your arm off!

G
 
screnchhomelite.jpg


best weapon for chassis check is a chainsaw combi spanner
 
Well - what a complete waste of time that was!!! I won't go into all the gory detail, but suffice to say the guy who was selling was basically just a wideboy t**t who knows nothing about Landy's (or mechanics for that matter). Not that I know much about them either, but the time i took to do a bit of research, coupled with my sixth sence for detecting arseholes certainly paid off! Lets just say, after the test drive and a lot of 'vibrating' (which he tried to pass off as normal on all-terrain wheels), I walked away with my £3k still intact. There was clearly something not right and I think it may have been the 200tdi engine that his monkey boy meachanic mate shoe-horned in. Seriously, even I could see it was in the wrong place! So it's back to the drawing board, but I am learning loads!!! :D Thanks again for all the info (and I like the idea of a fanclub dedicated to me :clap2:) Until the next time...
 
It a good point Becstar, most box section chassis's will rust just as much from the inside as the outside, so undersealing not really doing a lot unless the inside is treated as well. Best solution? a galvanised chassis which solves the problem, why this isn't standard on a Defender is one of the worlds great mysteries.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Electrical - starting fault/issue (seeking help/advice) - 1996 Defender 110 300TDI
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
tottot
tottot
L
Landy 110 1992 (J368 XSG) - is it as bad as mechanic says..
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
tottot
tottot
Globetreka
300Tdi or Td5?
Replies
2
Views
430
tottot
tottot
stumpyj
(2000 TD5 90 defender)TD5 Fuel Pump
Replies
5
Views
520
stumpyj
stumpyj
tottot
Brake hose mystery
Replies
13
Views
632
tottot
tottot
Back
Top