Is this the right part ?

P38 front hub R/H FTC3226, L/H FTC3243. Rear FTC3223.

so ruling out its not more to spend on an system i disagree since 40 years driving cars and never wanted or relied on abs how do i know its not the switch in the pump or the pump itself?

buying one of them rubber balls is not the problem but carry on paying more and more bit by bit is not sensible. lol. if it works again with the ball is fine. i am just worried its something else behind.
( hence the idea trying a cheap or ftree second hand one first. )

if i know by fact is that ball its fine.

and would anyone know where this dpdt relay is on the 1996 2.5 dei ?
possible picture or so.

i heard if that is not working properly it gives the same faults to the pump.
thanks

tyke100 said:

so ruling out its not more to spend on an system i disagree since 40 years driving cars and never wanted or relied on abs how do i know its not the switch in the pump or the pump itself?

buying one of them rubber balls is not the problem but carry on paying more and more bit by bit is not sensible. lol. if it works again with the ball is fine. i am just worried its something else behind.
( hence the idea trying a cheap or ftree second hand one first. )

if i know by fact is that ball its fine.

and would anyone know where this dpdt relay is on the 1996 2.5 dei ?
possible picture or so.

i heard if that is not working properly it gives the same faults to the pump.
thanks

Click to expand...

I and others have told you how to test the accumulator, so there is no need to buy a dodgy secondhand one for an inconclusive test.
Relays are in the relay box under the bonnet, all listed in RAVE.

Thabks yes found the diagram.

And yes you did.
I am just aware it could be the pump or switch too.
So buying the ball then the pump ?

I found a way how to disable the whole abs without hard fault.
Just put 1 switch between.

So I will get that ball and if it dosnt work after - i disable the whole abs system. I never wanted them anyway.


My Volvo has original a switch for it and is always off.

tyke100 said:

so ruling out its not more to spend on an system i disagree since 40 years driving cars and never wanted or relied on abs how do i know its not the switch in the pump or the pump itself?

buying one of them rubber balls is not the problem but carry on paying more and more bit by bit is not sensible. lol. if it works again with the ball is fine. i am just worried its something else behind.
( hence the idea trying a cheap or ftree second hand one first. )

if i know by fact is that ball its fine.

and would anyone know where this dpdt relay is on the 1996 2.5 dei ?
possible picture or so.

i heard if that is not working properly it gives the same faults to the pump.
thanks

Click to expand...

As our Keith says, don't buy second hand stuff especially on brakes my mate.
If your accumulator is duff the brake pump/motor will charge it every push of the brake pedal.
These are very complicated cars and the brake system was one of the best systems available at the time and need to be correct. Sorry for the lecture. I've never owned a car that requires so much attention albeit 20 yrs old...... In so may areas. This is why it is or was a kings ransom to buy and It's not a pug 205....

I do understand that bit.
I isual make sure brakes work perfect.

And you right
It is complicated but also outdated with all those extra stuff apparently beingnservice parts.
Expected service parts cheap and easy like filters etc.

It brakes a.lot better when the abs didnt work. Faster and better. It stopt just by tipping on the pedal.
Also I been told any gravel or slippery surface on one wheel causes the abs to kick in and extend the brake way.

I cant say anything about that because I just got the sensors working.

So - ok i get that ball hopefully cheaper as bloody 129 quit.
And then hope for the cars sake it works. Lol

Just a question on the side.

Why is the hawkeye not picking the accumulator is faulty up ?
I am sure if its faulty it should throw a error message ?

Bear in mind that the p38 doesn't have a brake servo so without the pump you will need legs like tree trunks to stop it.
Just disabling the abs system I suspect will also disable the pump.

Wazzajnr said:

Bear in mind that the p38 doesn't have a brake servo so without the pump you will need legs like tree trunks to stop it.
Just disabling the abs system I suspect will also disable the pump.

Click to expand...

Just a thought but, wouldn't it fail the MOT without abs?

tyke100 said:

I do understand that bit.
I isual make sure brakes work perfect.

And you right
It is complicated but also outdated with all those extra stuff apparently beingnservice parts.
Expected service parts cheap and easy like filters etc.

It brakes a.lot better when the abs didnt work. Faster and better. It stopt just by tipping on the pedal.
Also I been told any gravel or slippery surface on one wheel causes the abs to kick in and extend the brake way.

I cant say anything about that because I just got the sensors working.

So - ok i get that ball hopefully cheaper as bloody 129 quit.
And then hope for the cars sake it works. Lol

Click to expand...

Why are you so reluctant to do a simple test to check that both the pump and the accumulator are working?

aj1954 said:

Just a thought but, wouldn't it fail the MOT without abs?

Click to expand...

Never seen a test on the MOT for the ABS apart from the bulb test on start up.

tyke100 said:

Just a question on the side.

Why is the hawkeye not picking the accumulator is faulty up ?
I am sure if its faulty it should throw a error message ?

Click to expand...

Because it's mechanical.
The abs computer only reads the sensors and a brake pressure switch reads the pressure and tells the pump to run when needed.

Datatek said:

Never seen a test on the MOT for the ABS apart from the bulb test on start up.

Click to expand...

That was my point, if the bulb doesn't light at all, surely that's a fail?

aj1954 said:

That was my point, if the bulb doesn't light at all, surely that's a fail?

Click to expand...

Your correct, they expect to see it light up and then go out after checking the system for errors. I have to explain this every two years that ours goes out à second time after a short movement over a low speed. Évery bloody time..

aj1954 said:

That was my point, if the bulb doesn't light at all, surely that's a fail?

Click to expand...

Yes, but easy enough to frig.

Mark Piercy said:

Your correct, they expect to see it light up and then go out after checking the system for errors. I have to explain this every two years that ours goes out à second time after a short movement over a low speed. Évery bloody time..

Click to expand...

Same for me, have to remind them every time

Datatek said:

Why are you so reluctant to do a simple test to check that both the pump and the accumulator are working?

Click to expand...

I done the test
It points the accumulator.
I'm just aware to spend this fortune and then is maybe the pump. Which is another 190 quit plus 129 for the accumulator.

If I know it would fix the problem by replacing the ball I go for it tomorrow.

Datatek said:

Same for me, have to remind them every time

Click to expand...

That and leaving the gearbox to depressurise after arriving.
The last guy gave it three minutes before revving the crap out of it.

tyke100 said:

I done the test
It points the accumulator.
I'm just aware to spend this fortune and then is maybe the pump. Which is another 190 quit plus 129 for the accumulator.

If I know it would fix the problem by replacing the ball I go for it tomorrow.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately the problems your having now are the reason it was put up for sale in the first place. We don't sell a good one.. We all have been here and done this and this is why we are passing this experience into your good self tyke. This is a big Flipping adventure matey. As I said, it's not a simple car...

i just buy this ball and if the problem persist i go for that solution. it still lets the light come and off as normal. the only plus point the abs isnt kicking in making the stop longer .
i always relied on skills and non abs braking my whole life.
i cant really see the problem.
in fact i had to rely on abs and it was a complete damage on a mercedes and vauxhall thanks to it.
this solution lets you engage and disengage the actual abs .
designed for off road propulsive. but still let the brake system do his job.




that is what i found and may do if it carry on with faults and kicking in all the time.
My original ABS defeat worked fine for many years but there were / are two annoying parts. If you key off and leave the car without turning the ABS by pass switch back, it will hard code the ABS requiring a dealer clear.

Also, having no speedo / odometer can be a bit frustrating if navigating in the bush.

So I pursued a different tack and came up with a far more complex, but better outcome that retains speedo, odometer etc and doesn't care about cycling the key. The new plan just stays off as long as the switch is off.

Basically the ABS gets a signal from the brake switch telling it that the brakes are activated. It then looks to all the variable inputs, speed / wheel speed etc to determine slippage.

If you can stop it seeing the brake switch then the ABS simply won't work, but you still need the brake switch to work or the BCEM will get upset and you won't have any lights etc either.

This picture shows the new way to do the ABS defeat, and i works perfectly, but clearly requires a bit more effort to wire in.