Is my clutch showing signs its on the way out?

Hi all,

was hoping i might be able to get a little advice regarding my 2006 TD4 Facelift.

I've had it four years, and recently started to notice that sometimes it seems as if the engine races a bit after changing gear then settles back to normal. It sounds like its going faster than the actual accelerationfor a few seconds before it all settles back to normal. Its quite a subtle thing, so i'm not sure if its just imagination.

Getting into gear is not an issue, seems to be easy enough to do, although the clutch is very heavy (its always been that ways since i bought the car)

I've never had a clutch with issues before, so i don't know if this a clutch thing or not.
The car has done about 90k, had its vcu replaced a couple of months back.

thanks
Adam

Sounds like the clutch is slipping after the gear change. I'd budget for a replacement soon as the mileage is about right for a clutch change.

Thanks Nodge - had a feeling that might have been the case.
Do you know if there are any other things that need replacing at the same time? I've read the slave cylinder is worth swapping and seen flywheels mentioned ...I've tried looking through the threads on here but finding any good answers amongst the massive amounts of nonsense is not easy for a non-mechanic to fathom out!

adam

probably worth replacing the clutch slave cylinder at the same time ..

the 'slave' on mine went at 90k miles ..
so replaced clutch at the same time .. which were half worn according to the techie
the d.m. flywheel were still in good shape .. didn't need replacing ..

just to add: ..
i.m.h.o. an engine tuned for best-response-from-low-rpm ..
be much kinder to the clutch / drivetrain ..
than the standard setup
( depending on how it's driven of course )

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thanks HD3 - time to get some quotes in !!

no idea what mines tuned for - as it came from the manufacturer I suppose, as the original owner never went for any modifications and I haven't had it retuned.

only mentioned that as a by-the-way

when i got mine (@37k miles) it were a right pain ..
starting off in 1st on an incline needed some rpm + a bit of clutch slip
( lots of hills round 'ere )
and if the clutch movement were not spot on .. it would judder like crazy ..
took me about a week or so to get used to it ..
let a friend drive it once .. driving instructor .. used to manual diesels ..
started off at a stop light .. slight incline ..
so much judder i thought he'd selected 3rd instead of 1st ..

was like the engine and clutch were having a right fight ..
from experience .. figured the engine should do better ..
and on thinking about it .. the egr valve seemed to be a primary cause ..
so that were 'deleted' ..
result was much improved engine pick up from low rpm ..
no need to slip clutch .. no fight between engine and clutch .. no juddering ..
no complaints on starting off on an incline ..

after that added a tuning box ( synergy 2a ) ..
doing that improved gear changing / clutch usage all around

at some point changed the rusty exhaust backbox for a straight thru design ( stainless - steel )
and the modified the air intake ducting .. so the engine breathes better .. all around ..
then changed to slightly larger tyres to up the gearing a tad ..
much improved drive-ability and feels like less stress on the drive train
( as 'on-road' .. no doubt some 'off-road' use would need clutch slipping at times )

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Lightningad said:

thanks HD3 - time to get some quotes in !!

no idea what mines tuned for - as it came from the manufacturer I suppose, as the original owner never went for any modifications and I haven't had it retuned.

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Please do post any qoutes you get as it informs everyone the kind of money to expect or if you are being ripped off.

Seems the big expense is the DMFlywheel...so considering a solid one instead. With clutch, dmf, etc and fitting i have a quote approx £770 from the indie garagethat has done most of the work on the car

Lightningad said:

Seems the big expense is the DMFlywheel...so considering a solid one instead. With clutch, dmf, etc and fitting i have a quote approx £770 from the indie garagethat has done most of the work on the car

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i only fit dmf ,they were fitted for good reason,its not a job you need to do often and done right is best, a clutch job on a diesel should include dmf,clutch kit and concentric release bearing

jamesmartin said:

i only fit dmf ,they were fitted for good reason,its not a job you need to do often and done right is best, a clutch job on a diesel should include dmf,clutch kit and concentric release bearing

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Already decided the dmf is the way to go. I need the car to last, so best doing it right!
Thanks

I changed the clutch without changing the DMF. I figured the DMF should last approx two clutch kits so as it was the first change at approx 130k I decided to risk it. So far so good. At 90k there's no way I'd be changing the DMF unless it had excessive play.
Having said that I do the work myself so I don't have to count labour in the cost which will be more than the price of a DMF.
Replacing the slave is essential though and the master is probably sensible.

Alibro said:

I changed the clutch without changing the DMF. I figured the DMF should last approx two clutch kits so as it was the first change at approx 130k I decided to risk it. So far so good. At 90k there's no way I'd be changing the DMF unless it had excessive play.
Having said that I do the work myself so I don't have to count labour in the cost which will be more than the price of a DMF.
Replacing the slave is essential though and the master is probably sensible.

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youve been lucky its usual to do both,i learnt a lesson when they first became std fitment after having to redo the clutch change to fit a new dmf

jamesmartin said:

youve been lucky its usual to do both,i learnt a lesson when they first became std fitment after having to redo the clutch change to fit a new dmf

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Lucky so far.........