JackNorris
Member
- Posts
- 27
- Location
- Milton Keynes / Leighton Buzzard
Hello
Going to look at a Used Defender tomorrow so and want to know what to look at...
Instead of asking for you to list what to look for when buying a defender, I have searched through quite a few posts and come up with what i feel quite a good list.
If you could have a look through and let me know if i have missed anything, or anything that is a bit petty to check.
I know some points are doubled... Any help much appreciated!
1. If you can go for a 200 or 300tdi engined landy, and make sure the bulkhead is solid, and the chassis doesn’t fall apart when you poke it with a screwdriver / hammer or similar
2. Bottom of all 3 Doors.
3. Check for underside damage (bent steps, grazed diff casings etc), Mud embedded in hard to reach areas of the chassis is also a good sign of being off roaded as is a transfer box lever that moves easily.
4. Always test drive obviously. try low box/high and difflock making sure diff light engages and disengages properly. Make sure there no clunks or bangs from the drivetrain..generally it should be aparant if summit is wrong when you drive it..rusty bulkhead/outriggers/crossmember are problem ares for rust..have a good look all over a genuine seller will have no probs with you doin this if someone is trying to hide summit they might use the line
5. Check underneath for rot in the chassis, particularly the bulkhead outriggers (underneath each footwell) these are a bugger to replace
6. Drive it and check for slack in taking up the drive - sometimes easy repair, sometimes expensive
7. If its got power steering, after driving it have a look under the front at the bottom of the steering box to see if it is leaking - these are expensive to replace
8. Open the doors and check all round the frames, defender doors are terrible for rotting
9. Check for problems engaging second gear,common in LT77 gearboxes
10. Swivels at ends of front axle not
leaking fluid
11. Corrosion at front by Windscreen
12. VIN matches logbook
Under Bonnet
13. Bulkhead free from excessive corrosion
14. No excessive fluid spills
15. Power steering fluid not leaking
16. Oil Level
17. Other fluid levels
18. Coolant not leaking
19. Condition of fan in turbo air intake is acceptable
20. Hold each door wiggle up and down for excessive hinge play
Driving
21. Play in steering wheel is not excessive
22. High range gears
23. Low range gears
24. No clutch slip (removed excessive)
25. Diff lock engages (light on dash)
26. Diff lock disengages (may need to reverse a short distance and then move forward)
27. Handbrake works on incline
28. No unusual smoke
29. Check under the carpet in the load space if it's a station wagon as mine filled all your criteria and I've just discovered the seal between the top half of the body and the tub is leaking in one tiny space causing the load space to fill up with water!
30. - Firstly buy a Hanyes manual. This will allow you to read up on the various parts of a Landy. Also read the MOT and service guides. This will show you things to look for. (If you are serious about owning a Landy, you will definitely need this anyway)
31. Walk around the outside, and look for the normal things when buying any car (paintwork, rust, crash damage...etc)
32. Crawl underneath the vehicle from the side, and look over the chassis for rust. Take a screwdriver with you, and poke about on any rust patches to see if it is cosmetic or terminal.
33. Look for any damage underneath. Bends, scrapes and kinks will point to a hard life.
34. Scan for fluid leaks. These are normally found on the oil sump, differentials, gearbox, steering pump (if fitted)....etc
35. At each universal joint, take hold of the prop-shaft and wiggle. The shaft should rotate a little, but not move in the X or Y axis. These are only a £10 joint to replace, but will give you an idea of the level of service the vehicle as had.
36. Look inside the vehicle, but bear in mind a £4K Landy will be tatty.
37. Open the bonnet and look for leaks.
38. Check all the fluid levels to see how well maintained the vehicle has been.
39. Start the engine yourself. It should start promptly and not smoke heavily. The engine will race for a couple of seconds, but then settle to a steady tick-over.
40. Rev the engine (not too much, it is not yours) and watch for excessive smoking. Blue smoke = oil, white smoke = water leak
41. Take the vehicle for a longish drive. Make sure you use all gears, including low-range with diff-lock.
42. Ensure all the lights work, the instrument panel works, the heater works (as much as an LR heater usually works)...etc.
43. Very good check for water to oil contamination in the engine oil pressures in water system and traces of oil in water system
Lot of wandering when driving
Thanks!
Going to look at a Used Defender tomorrow so and want to know what to look at...
Instead of asking for you to list what to look for when buying a defender, I have searched through quite a few posts and come up with what i feel quite a good list.
If you could have a look through and let me know if i have missed anything, or anything that is a bit petty to check.
I know some points are doubled... Any help much appreciated!
1. If you can go for a 200 or 300tdi engined landy, and make sure the bulkhead is solid, and the chassis doesn’t fall apart when you poke it with a screwdriver / hammer or similar
2. Bottom of all 3 Doors.
3. Check for underside damage (bent steps, grazed diff casings etc), Mud embedded in hard to reach areas of the chassis is also a good sign of being off roaded as is a transfer box lever that moves easily.
4. Always test drive obviously. try low box/high and difflock making sure diff light engages and disengages properly. Make sure there no clunks or bangs from the drivetrain..generally it should be aparant if summit is wrong when you drive it..rusty bulkhead/outriggers/crossmember are problem ares for rust..have a good look all over a genuine seller will have no probs with you doin this if someone is trying to hide summit they might use the line
5. Check underneath for rot in the chassis, particularly the bulkhead outriggers (underneath each footwell) these are a bugger to replace
6. Drive it and check for slack in taking up the drive - sometimes easy repair, sometimes expensive
7. If its got power steering, after driving it have a look under the front at the bottom of the steering box to see if it is leaking - these are expensive to replace
8. Open the doors and check all round the frames, defender doors are terrible for rotting
9. Check for problems engaging second gear,common in LT77 gearboxes
10. Swivels at ends of front axle not
leaking fluid
11. Corrosion at front by Windscreen
12. VIN matches logbook
Under Bonnet
13. Bulkhead free from excessive corrosion
14. No excessive fluid spills
15. Power steering fluid not leaking
16. Oil Level
17. Other fluid levels
18. Coolant not leaking
19. Condition of fan in turbo air intake is acceptable
20. Hold each door wiggle up and down for excessive hinge play
Driving
21. Play in steering wheel is not excessive
22. High range gears
23. Low range gears
24. No clutch slip (removed excessive)
25. Diff lock engages (light on dash)
26. Diff lock disengages (may need to reverse a short distance and then move forward)
27. Handbrake works on incline
28. No unusual smoke
29. Check under the carpet in the load space if it's a station wagon as mine filled all your criteria and I've just discovered the seal between the top half of the body and the tub is leaking in one tiny space causing the load space to fill up with water!
30. - Firstly buy a Hanyes manual. This will allow you to read up on the various parts of a Landy. Also read the MOT and service guides. This will show you things to look for. (If you are serious about owning a Landy, you will definitely need this anyway)
31. Walk around the outside, and look for the normal things when buying any car (paintwork, rust, crash damage...etc)
32. Crawl underneath the vehicle from the side, and look over the chassis for rust. Take a screwdriver with you, and poke about on any rust patches to see if it is cosmetic or terminal.
33. Look for any damage underneath. Bends, scrapes and kinks will point to a hard life.
34. Scan for fluid leaks. These are normally found on the oil sump, differentials, gearbox, steering pump (if fitted)....etc
35. At each universal joint, take hold of the prop-shaft and wiggle. The shaft should rotate a little, but not move in the X or Y axis. These are only a £10 joint to replace, but will give you an idea of the level of service the vehicle as had.
36. Look inside the vehicle, but bear in mind a £4K Landy will be tatty.
37. Open the bonnet and look for leaks.
38. Check all the fluid levels to see how well maintained the vehicle has been.
39. Start the engine yourself. It should start promptly and not smoke heavily. The engine will race for a couple of seconds, but then settle to a steady tick-over.
40. Rev the engine (not too much, it is not yours) and watch for excessive smoking. Blue smoke = oil, white smoke = water leak
41. Take the vehicle for a longish drive. Make sure you use all gears, including low-range with diff-lock.
42. Ensure all the lights work, the instrument panel works, the heater works (as much as an LR heater usually works)...etc.
43. Very good check for water to oil contamination in the engine oil pressures in water system and traces of oil in water system
Lot of wandering when driving
Thanks!
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