Is it worth using a rust convertor?

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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

Active Member
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953
Hi there

I'm in the process of treating the underbody on my 1995 defender. I want to use dinitrol products, but dinitrol guide people into using the rust converter prior to the ml3125 and the 4941 underbody wax.

Even though my chassis is solid, inside the chassis there is flaky rust and scabs. Along with 20 years of dirt build up, both of which I've tried to flush out.
Is there any point in using rust converter inside the rails??

Waxoyl was also used externally last year without a rust convertor, so most of the external chassis I won't be able to get access to the original metal to rust treat.
So is there any point in using it for what isn't covered by waxoyl?

Thankyou
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Hi there

I'm in the process of treating the underbody on my 1995 defender. I want to use dinitrol products, but dinitrol guide people into using the rust converter prior to the ml3125 and the 4941 underbody wax.

Even though my chassis is solid, inside the chassis there is flaky rust and scabs. Along with 20 years of dirt build up, both of which I've tried to flush out.
Is there any point in using rust converter inside the rails??

Waxoyl was also used externally last year without a rust convertor, so most of the external chassis I won't be able to get access to the original metal to rust treat.
So is there any point in using it for what isn't covered by waxoyl?

Thankyou
Click to expand...
i often spray vactan in to chassis then spray waxoyl an hour later
 
From my experience I would say no, it's not worth it. To have any level of success with it I've found I have to repeatedly apply the rust treatment, then rub the the area down, apply the rust treatment, rub it down etc. You can't do that inside the chassis rail :(
 
Al2O3 said:
From my experience I would say no, it's not worth it. To have any level of success with it I've found I have to repeatedly apply the rust treatment, then rub the the area down, apply the rust treatment, rub it down etc. You can't do that inside the chassis rail :(
Click to expand...

Your thinking on exactly the same lines as me. I was also questioning whether it would seal any moisture in too?!

It's pricey stuff too, so I wanted to make sure before hand. I know one aerosol they supply on the kit certainly wouldn't be enough for my chassis. Despite it being sold, rust is setting in.

Thanks for the replies
 
I don't think it will seal in moisture because the stuff I bought said it could be applied in damp conditions. I bought a treatment called Aquasteel. But, it's white milky stuff which is probably the same as all the other makes. So long as it 'dries out' I think the moisture in it and with it must be used up in the chemical reaction. Having said that, if I was in your situation, I would go for Dinitrol or other cavity wax. Make sure you use the cavity wax, it's much thinner and creeps/penetrates amazingly well. That should get in amongst the flakes of rust inside your chassis rail and do a very good job of keeping moisture and air out. Don't know what Vactan is, but obviously worth investigating if James recommends it.
 
What I've done with a couple of chassis now is to give the chassis a good going over with the pressure washer, pointing the nozzle into all the holes to try to break up and wash out the dirt and any flakiness, leave it about a week to dry out (I've done this in the summer so the weather helps me) and then spray Dinitrol in through the holes, until I can see it running out. Of course, it's not as good as cleaning down to bare metal, but it's not possible to do this inside box sections and it's better doing it this way than not doing anything! In places where I've done this that I've subsequently opened up (like inside the doors where I've eventually had the door trims off) everything looks to be covered in a dark oily film and whilst the rust is still there, it is not doing anything. That's after a couple of years (and two winters) in my main car. Sticking my fingers in the holes in the chassis (being careful not to get trapped ) it feels oily inside still. So I think it's prolonging my chassis life.
 
Brown said:
What I've done with a couple of chassis now is to give the chassis a good going over with the pressure washer, pointing the nozzle into all the holes to try to break up and wash out the dirt and any flakiness, leave it about a week to dry out (I've done this in the summer so the weather helps me) and then spray Dinitrol in through the holes, until I can see it running out. Of course, it's not as good as cleaning down to bare metal, but it's not possible to do this inside box sections and it's better doing it this way than not doing anything! In places where I've done this that I've subsequently opened up (like inside the doors where I've eventually had the door trims off) everything looks to be covered in a dark oily film and whilst the rust is still there, it is not doing anything. That's after a couple of years (and two winters) in my main car. Sticking my fingers in the holes in the chassis (being careful not to get trapped ) it feels oily inside still. So I think it's prolonging my chassis life.
Click to expand...

Cheers Brown. You dont bother with a rust converter then on your chassis? Just make sure its got plenty of cavity wax in?
 
Fertan the chassis insides - it uses the water to spread, kill the rust and then is good for up to a year without protection on top of it. I wouldn't leave it without a topcoat though - ditch the waxoyl/dinitrol and go for Dynax s-50 instead.
Salt Spray Test
 
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