Is it a Drug, a Virus or is it Love?

Any compressor is worth the money when you're on the trail with a flat!

I have the old type ARB compressor running my diffs but it is nowhere near capable enough for inflating tyres, would take ages. I have heard that the new HO compressor is MUCH better but as you say, is expensive.

I carry the britpart twin pump type that cost me about 80 quid and takes around 5 mins to inflate my 33x12.5x15 from 12psi to 35psi.

However I was out wheeling with some guys last year and one of them had the new tmax HO compressor, the one with the black handle and it is basically a yellow square box with all the gubbins inside of course, but it seemed even better than mine, smaller, quieter and greater output unloaded for sure, not sure about output under load but it certainly didn't hang around inflating a 35" hankook. I think there are a few different types of tmax but it was the one with the yellow box around it and the black pump head.



Cheers

400-500 EUs for a compressor is steep. bloomin hell

hah, I will just take my Giant hand pump with me for now inflated a few tyres with that and it will do fine for emergencies...

Right now I got my new Bearmach springs and Bilstein B6 shocks installed... Can't wait.

Jim W. said:

400-500 EUs for a compressor is steep. bloomin hell

hah, I will just take my Giant hand pump with me for now inflated a few tyres with that and it will do fine for emergencies...

Right now I got my new Bearmach springs and Bilstein B6 shocks installed... Can't wait.

Click to expand...

You can buy a perfectly capable compressor (which will run of your vehicle battery) for a lot less than that.

12V Compressors | Expedition Equipment

Dave

Thanks Dave. Do you know if those compressors will work ARB lockers?

cheers.

Jim W. said:

Thanks Dave. Do you know if those compressors will work ARB lockers?

cheers.

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Hi Jim, these are tyre compressors, but I suppose it depends what the locker needs? Power of compressed air and short-term or permanent.

haha, I have no idea mate.. I do know that the lockers need a constant supply of air but have no idea what connectors and what pressures they work with.

cheers.

Hello.

Best ask an expert

ARB lockers work at up to 90psi. That is when the pressure switch turns off the ARB compressor. It switches on around 70 iirc. This keeps the pressure in the workable range for the diffs. They do take a constant supply of air as such, but they should actualy flow any air really, but of course they will always leak to an extent. The slip ring seals are the main culprit but as long as you have enough supply you are fine. Also helps keep your breathers clear and water out of the axles

The compressor does not run all the time, even with the teeny weeny tank on the ARB unit, on a new set of lockers with good seals the pump will only run for 5 seconds or so every 30 seconds or so with both diffs locked.

My rear is pretty good but my front leaks a little air so the compressor runs for 5 seconds every 40 seconds with both locked, but lasts well over a minute with just the rear locked. That's with a small fire extiguisher bottle under my seat that serves as an air tank, holds about 1.5 litre. Without that air reserve the little compressor was running every 10 seconds or so, was quite annoying.

The other way to do it is to build a proper air system.

I have one of those twin pump compressors that biglad quoted, and she blows. Can use the free air flow from the compressor for dusting off or drying components. It spends its life in the back of the car though which is a bit of a waste.

I would get a full size fire extinguisher (9 litre i think???) and use my twinpump compressor rigged up as a permanent install, and that would be awesome for air tools (very light use) or inflating tyres. You would most likely run that system at around 130psi and then use a pressure reducing valve for the supply to the ARB solenoid valves.

That way youve got 130psi for rapid tyre inflation and a steady 90 psi at all times for fast and direct diff engagement.

The ARB unit does the job admirably for just diffs but cannot serve any other purpose.

I should really build a good air system for mine but just havent had the dedication yet

Mr Noisy, you da man btw, do the ARBs change the ratios at all?

On another note I have this dang clanging noise when changing gears and there is some slop in the drive line when going from reverse to first and vice versa. I imagine it is the U joints??? What else can be the culprits guys? I hope it is not diffs or transfer case

Me iz da man!

The ratios are entirely dependent on your crown wheel and pinion set, you can fit series 4.7 to rangey/disco diffs that are 3.something and vice versa, the diffs are all the se just fit whatever CWP set you want.

Check out ashcrofts beautiful range of CWP sets in various ratios with reverse cut front sets!! DROOL!

Could be anything from from clutch to tyres mate.

Ie clutch splines, gearbox internals, GEARBOX OUTPUT SPLINES very common, TRANSFER CASE INPUT GEAR very common and easily replaceable, transfer case internals, transfer case output flanges, props, diff input flanges, DIFF CENTRES worn out very common not repairable, shaft splines or DRIVE MEMBER splines very common.

Check everything systematically until you find the play but the capitalised above are the main players normally...

"Me iz da man!" ..... always have great input. cheers mate

Now, I have an issue with my car starting :/ Who doesn't?? haha!
Anyways, after parking car I tried to start it and the starter would not get any power.
The dash lights worked fine. (the pre-heater light worked at this point but after 4-5th attempt it stopped working).
After push starting the the girl I noticed that when I turned the driving lights on that the speedo., tacho. and radio would switch off then go on again.
Had the Alternator and battery checked while car was running and all seemed "ok".
After getting home I tried to start car again and a no go.
This morning the car started with no issues at all

I is now confoooosed

I am obviously taking car to the shop tomorrow but i really would like some input on the matter

Could it be a faulty ignition switch??? If it is, it'll get to a stage where it stops working altogether.

Paddocks do new kits and you can just use the switch and cable, so your key stays the same:

http://www.paddockspares.com/catalo...ion+switch"&parts_only_search=334&vehicle=123


Dave

Should be simple enough to diagnose with basic test lamp!

Jim W. said:

"Me iz da man!" ..... always have great input. cheers mate

Now, I have an issue with my car starting :/ Who doesn't?? haha!
Anyways, after parking car I tried to start it and the starter would not get any power.
The dash lights worked fine. (the pre-heater light worked at this point but after 4-5th attempt it stopped working).
After push starting the the girl I noticed that when I turned the driving lights on that the speedo., tacho. and radio would switch off then go on again.
Had the Alternator and battery checked while car was running and all seemed "ok".
After getting home I tried to start car again and a no go.
This morning the car started with no issues at all

I is now confoooosed

I am obviously taking car to the shop tomorrow but i really would like some input on the matter

Click to expand...

loose battery terminal ?

GOD !!!!!
The Starter was shorting AND the alternator kept on cutting out...
Referbed the starter and changed the alternator "plug" where the brushes are :/

hello again, hope all are well

Do any of you know if the rear seat from a four door disco 1 will fit a two door disco 1?

cheers guys

Jim W. said:

hello again, hope all are well

Do any of you know if the rear seat from a four door disco 1 will fit a two door disco 1?

cheers guys

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Hi Jim, yes the rear seats are completely interchangeable between 3 & 5 doors - no mods required.

Dave

woohoo




cheers Dave raise: