Injector Seals - Preventative?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

BenKenobi

New Member
Posts
218
Location
3rd Rock past the Sun ...
So my beastie seems to use no oil - but I'm sure it must since it has 128k on it - but the oil doesn't smell of diesel - but the level hasn't dropped at all in 2000 miles.

Could this be regarded as good - I'm a little paranoid perhaps but am considering replacing the injector seals as a 'just in case' measure but there are two things that stop me.

1) Experience - some things are best left alone "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
2) The need for a stupidly expensive tool to do the job that I'll likely only use once.

I don't do heath robinson so no prybars and pot luck for me, I do believe in preventative maintenance where that isn't likely to cause more 'expensive' damage - been there got the 'T' shirt - see item 1.

So should I

1) Suck it up and replace the injector seals
2) Keep monitoring the oil level a while longer knowing that diesel in the oil can fubar an engine in a short time.

I have replaced many other seals and 'O' rings on this car that had gone hard - i.e. Fuel Cooler, Cam Caps, AC, ACE and the gearbox / transfer case seals are passing so I'm guessing that all seals are past their sell by (but the box seals are too damn hard for me to fix on me jones's).

Do injector seals fail gradually or is it a case of one heat cycle too many.

The car is an 04 Model Disco with 128k on the clock . Engine has been run on Shell Helix Ultra oil and Millers Ecomax used on every tank of diesel. (Has TTechnics VGT turbo and Allard 'large' intercooler, no EGR or CAT)
 
So my beastie seems to use no oil - but I'm sure it must since it has 128k on it - but the oil doesn't smell of diesel - but the level hasn't dropped at all in 2000 miles.

Could this be regarded as good - I'm a little paranoid perhaps but am considering replacing the injector seals as a 'just in case' measure but there are two things that stop me.

1) Experience - some things are best left alone "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
2) The need for a stupidly expensive tool to do the job that I'll likely only use once.

I don't do heath robinson so no prybars and pot luck for me, I do believe in preventative maintenance where that isn't likely to cause more 'expensive' damage - been there got the 'T' shirt - see item 1.

So should I

1) Suck it up and replace the injector seals
2) Keep monitoring the oil level a while longer knowing that diesel in the oil can fubar an engine in a short time.

I have replaced many other seals and 'O' rings on this car that had gone hard - i.e. Fuel Cooler, Cam Caps, AC, ACE and the gearbox / transfer case seals are passing so I'm guessing that all seals are past their sell by (but the box seals are too damn hard for me to fix on me jones's).

Do injector seals fail gradually or is it a case of one heat cycle too many.

The car is an 04 Model Disco with 128k on the clock . Engine has been run on Shell Helix Ultra oil and Millers Ecomax used on every tank of diesel. (Has TTechnics VGT turbo and Allard 'large' intercooler, no EGR or CAT)

Mine went suddenly with no warning. The only extravagant bit of kit I used was a slide hammer to remove my injectors. They are only around £20 on eBay.
 
How did you hook up the slide hammer to the injector head to apply the welly without busting the injector? - or the head?

I'm guessing you only need enough welly to overcome the 'O' ring resistance - true or false - what are the chances of the copper washer staying in the head?
 
How did you hook up the slide hammer to the injector head to apply the welly without busting the injector? - or the head?

I'm guessing you only need enough welly to overcome the 'O' ring resistance - true or false - what are the chances of the copper washer staying in the head?

If you get a slide hammer with the attachments you can use the smaller right angled flat plate underneath the edge of the injector. (bottom row and second fro the left in the ebay link piccy).

9PC DENT PULLER SET Slide Hammer Remover Set Car Repair | eBay

$T2eC16NHJHQE9nzE)jldBQNnO7RJ9!~~60_12.GIF


as Shifty said, the washers should stay on the injector tip.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f67/td5-injector-seals-206864.html
 
Perfick and much cheaper than the 'official' alternative - many thanks.

I appreciate the link to that write up too. I found one on the web that shows the cam locking bolt being used and for the life of me I couldn't figure out how or why since you can't rotate the engine with it in place - the link confirmed what I thought - that it isn't needed - it isn't like this has a VANOS or automated adjustment system.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top