Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,130
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Only the overfuelling fault is valid, the others are typical of low battery volts on cranking and can be ignored.
Injector pump fault
- Thread starter olesmokie
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
It's all the same fault as far as i can see. Fuel flow out of range if genuine would have a fault code.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,130
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Just re read it, you are right. Those faults often show on cranking and are meaningless.
On the drive to work this morning. I cleared all faults. Drove didn't experience the symptom when it seems to have no power.
But had my usual problem when I come off the throttle quickly or turn off the cc where the check light flashes. After have this problem I checked the nanocom and the error in my first picture was displaying. So I guess that the error is relating to that.
I've done done mechanicL jobs on my defender alternator, hubs, half shaft, valve clearances and other maintenance tasks before. But never as complicated at timing. What tools will I need? I had a quick read of the rave but couldn't see anything mentioned. I'll re read properly.
Not sure if it's worth mentioning but when I'm driving the car the timing mod. Is around 50 - 60.
But had my usual problem when I come off the throttle quickly or turn off the cc where the check light flashes. After have this problem I checked the nanocom and the error in my first picture was displaying. So I guess that the error is relating to that.
I've done done mechanicL jobs on my defender alternator, hubs, half shaft, valve clearances and other maintenance tasks before. But never as complicated at timing. What tools will I need? I had a quick read of the rave but couldn't see anything mentioned. I'll re read properly.
Not sure if it's worth mentioning but when I'm driving the car the timing mod. Is around 50 - 60.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
The modulation is supposed to be 45 to 55% at 750 RPM with a warm engine. That indicates that the static pump timing is correct. Modulation will change as the car is driven at different speeds/loads. You never mentioned the check lamp flashing, that indicates a problem. On mine this occurred coming off cruise or when lifting throttle. Tried a new number four injector but no different. Problem got worse leading to stalls at lights and when steering was turned also engaging gear. Then i got Nonocom and fuel quantity fault was listed. If it gets that bad only thing is an exchange pump. For me changing pump and or chains is easy. If you have never done anything like that before and have not got the special tools it is far from easy.
Thought is update this thread. It's been a while. So I've had the fip changed which cleared up the errors and the engine check light doesn't come on anymore when you come off the throttle or cc.
But the problem where suddenly I have no power seem to be getting worse. It seems to happen in any situation. From cold as soon as it's started, after it been driven for 20 miles. Sometime it goes away as quickl as it came. Sometime I can drive for 50 miles stop go shopping and when I get back in it still happening. I've tried killing the engine while driving or pulling the battery terminals (this seem to fix it he first time, but not the second)
I rechecked the timing mod. After the fip change it's now reading 35 ish % when warm on idle.
It has gotten worst I've the last month. Could it be blocked fuel lines?
Any ideas guys?
But the problem where suddenly I have no power seem to be getting worse. It seems to happen in any situation. From cold as soon as it's started, after it been driven for 20 miles. Sometime it goes away as quickl as it came. Sometime I can drive for 50 miles stop go shopping and when I get back in it still happening. I've tried killing the engine while driving or pulling the battery terminals (this seem to fix it he first time, but not the second)
I rechecked the timing mod. After the fip change it's now reading 35 ish % when warm on idle.
It has gotten worst I've the last month. Could it be blocked fuel lines?
Any ideas guys?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,130
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Wammers would confirm or not but modulation at 35% looks low to me.
Have you checked the in tank pump?
Yes tank pump was changed about 4 months ago because I would running out of fuel with 1/4 of a tank left. I also tried removing the tank filler cap to see if it could be a block breather. Not sure if that'll work. Can the timing mod be changed without changing the timing chain?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,130
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
What timing mod do you refer to?
Timing can be adjusted with the correct tools.
Worth checking that the replacement pump actually works, some don't.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,130
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
In tank pump? Drop the fuel filter, put a bowl under and turn on the ignition. There is a set amount you should get out, can't remember how much though. Some of the pumps go intermittent.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Timing modulation as said earlier should be around 45% to 55% engine warm at idle. This indicates that the injection pump static timing is there or there about correct. Perfection would be 50% modulation. Lower is advanced higher is retarded. Modulation can be changed by re timing injection pump. But i cannot see that being your problem. Diag and live data may show more.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
You need to look if any faults are logged. Then someone who knows what they are doing needs to look at live data. Did you fit a new refurbed pump or a second hand one?
- Posts
- 19,010
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
My understanding is that the timing is set mechanically but then there is an electronic adjustment to fine tune this setting. This fine tuning is the timing modulation. It is supposed to be 45 - 55 but on older work engines it can be outside this range, especially if the mechanical timing has never been adjusted for chain stretch. I think it normally goes higher as the chain stretches but not sure.
Are all your readings on a warm engine at tickover? You've quoted as low as 35 to as high as 75. That strikes me as odd because mine is pretty consistent. I might be wrong though, I'm just going off what I've seen on mine.
You can record the readings on the Nanocom if you have an SD card in it. You go to the screen with the readings and then press the black icon that looks a bit like an old floppy disk. You will have to enter a filename and then it will record all readings about once a second until you press the icon again. If you "zip" the file you can post it on here. Someone like Wammers might be able to spot something from the data.
Are all your readings on a warm engine at tickover? You've quoted as low as 35 to as high as 75. That strikes me as odd because mine is pretty consistent. I might be wrong though, I'm just going off what I've seen on mine.
You can record the readings on the Nanocom if you have an SD card in it. You go to the screen with the readings and then press the black icon that looks a bit like an old floppy disk. You will have to enter a filename and then it will record all readings about once a second until you press the icon again. If you "zip" the file you can post it on here. Someone like Wammers might be able to spot something from the data.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
After pump is static timed, modulation at idle, engine up to normal temp, should be 45% to 55%, ideally 50%. 50% is the rest or null position of the timing solenoid. When the engine is running the ECU takes readings from number four injector, this gives it start of injection info. It compares this with readings from the crank position sensor and modulates the timing solenoid up (retard) or down (advance) to cause start of injection to coincide with the mapped start of injection point for any particular RPM.
- Posts
- 19,010
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
OK. So assuming both his replacement pumps are fine and there's fuel at the filter, it could be number 4 injector cracking up or possibly the CPS giving dodgy readings?
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Loss of power due to number for injector fault causing limp mode should put MIL lamp on. Could be a few things. MAP sensor, fuel flow something like that. Restricted air flow due to internally delaminated turbo hoses, there are a few possibilities.
