inactive air suspension l322 td6 vogue 2003

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petebowling

Member
Posts
65
Location
Mundford Thetford
Good morning all
having a spot of bother with my air suspension and wondered if any one has any ideas, I recently have replaced the rear dampers and toe in wishbone, everything went well I haven't yet had the tracking and alignment checked as I am waiting for the new tyres on the front rear already done.
I cleared the air suspension inactive with my Hawkeye and everything went well, drove it around the village to make sure no knockings etc. no problem this is at about 30mph today went to take it to work got onto the main road up to 50mph after a couple of miles suspension lights go out ad inactive illuminates anybody any idea what it could be, I will plug in later but am a novice with Hawkeye just thought it might help to know which bit to look at.
Many thanks for your time and to all that have helped on my previous posts with my rr project.
 
one answer could be If while doing the dampers and suspension the arms dropped down lower than they should the height sensors can go out of range and pick up a bit of crud on the tracks, often happens if garages let the wheels dangle while doing tyres, normally clears after a while.
 
brianp38dse said:
one answer could be If while doing the dampers and suspension the arms dropped down lower than they should the height sensors can go out of range and pick up a bit of crud on the tracks, often happens if garages let the wheels dangle while doing tyres, normally clears after a while.
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Is it still safe to drive its set at the normal running height or should I say stuck at the middle height?
 
I would think its safe to drive and by using it it should clear the height track if that is the cause of your fault, what did the Hawkeye come up with as to fault.
 
brianp38dse said:
I would think its safe to drive and by using it it should clear the height track if that is the cause of your fault, what did the Hawkeye come up with as to fault.
Click to expand...
I haven't looked at that yet as this happened at 4.00am this morning 2 miles away from home so I had to bring back and swap cars, as I didn't want to risk damaging anything as I'm new to the RR. at least I know I can still drive it at a lower speed to get to destination if this happens again rather than turning round.
 
Am I imagining it but didn't you post the same problem a couple of weeks or so ago, and were given the same suggestion by Brian then? Did you check the sensors,back then, physically, not just on diagnostics? There is no point clearing a fault on Hawkeye, if you don't fix the cause. Maybe get it up on the ramps and do a physical check on her.
 
gold rover said:
Am I imagining it but didn't you post the same problem a couple of weeks or so ago, and were given the same suggestion by Brian then? Did you check the sensors,back then, physically, not just on diagnostics? There is no point clearing a fault on Hawkeye, if you don't fix the cause. Maybe get it up on the ramps and do a physical check on her.
Click to expand...
hi gold rover I did a physical check and found one of the height sensors had a crumbled sent where it attaches to the sub frame so I changed it that why I then cleared the fault, driving around the village it has been fine slow speed but this morning it was main roads at 50 not bumpy roads and it decided to go inactive again, the reason I was asking was is there anyone who has had the same thing happen just to give me a pointer before I try the diagnostics again.
Cheers pete
 
petebowling said:
hi gold rover I did a physical check and found one of the height sensors had a crumbled sent where it attaches to the sub frame so I changed it that why I then cleared the fault, driving around the village it has been fine slow speed but this morning it was main roads at 50 not bumpy roads and it decided to go inactive again, the reason I was asking was is there anyone who has had the same thing happen just to give me a pointer before I try the diagnostics again.
Cheers pete
Click to expand...

Again, if I recall correctly (search is u/s), that is new information from last time.
I don't know the techie terms but did you do the ride height settings after replacing the sensor?
If you go to Google put in landyzone followed by your issue , it will bring up threads previously posted on the issue. You may get an answer to the problem and in one of the threads the correct height settings have been kindly posted.
I had an issue which was similar for a while, turned out the ride height sensor was just the tiniest bit loose. Any uneven-ness on road surface was causing the 30mph warning to come up. Annoying thing was, I'd just replaced a different one. So maybe do a double, double check.
 
gold rover said:
Again, if I recall correctly (search is u/s), that is new information from last time.
I don't know the techie terms but did you do the ride height settings after replacing the sensor?
If you go to Google put in landyzone followed by your issue , it will bring up threads previously posted on the issue. You may get an answer to the problem and in one of the threads the correct height settings have been kindly posted.
I had an issue which was similar for a while, turned out the ride height sensor was just the tiniest bit loose. Any uneven-ness on road surface was causing the 30mph warning to come up. Annoying thing was, I'd just replaced a different one. So maybe do a double, double check.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this I will take another look I suppose they are all of the same age so may be another at fault?
Many Thanks
Pete
 
gold rover said:
Again, if I recall correctly (search is u/s), that is new information from last time.
I don't know the techie terms but did you do the ride height settings after replacing the sensor?
If you go to Google put in landyzone followed by your issue , it will bring up threads previously posted on the issue. You may get an answer to the problem and in one of the threads the correct height settings have been kindly posted.
I had an issue which was similar for a while, turned out the ride height sensor was just the tiniest bit loose. Any uneven-ness on road surface was causing the 30mph warning to come up. Annoying thing was, I'd just replaced a different one. So maybe do a double, double check.
Click to expand...
Hi gold rover
I have done the diagnostic on the rr now and didn't know if you had an idea the Hawkeyes says dtc 50 cam bus failure short circuit to positive sporadic. And the second said dtc 100 arthentication vacidity sporadic fault I'm a bit lost can you help please.
Thanks
Pete
 
CANbus fault could just be because the system is in fault as the EAS sits on the CAN - if it is in fault the whole CAN will show as a fault.

Articulation Validity Fault means the system thinks the suspension has move to a position it doesn't think exists and as such has halted the system to prevent damage as it cannot be sure what it is doing to control the suspension.

This usually happens if the sensors have been moved out of range, damaged, wiring connections are faulty, contacts are dirty or it may even need calibration if a new sensor has been fitted and the data it is getting from it is invalid.
 
Saint.V8 said:
CANbus fault could just be because the system is in fault as the EAS sits on the CAN - if it is in fault the whole CAN will show as a fault.

Articulation Validity Fault means the system thinks the suspension has move to a position it doesn't think exists and as such has halted the system to prevent damage as it cannot be sure what it is doing to control the suspension.

This usually happens if the sensors have been moved out of range, damaged, wiring connections are faulty, contacts are dirty or it may even need calibration if a new sensor has been fitted and the data it is getting from it is invalid.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that I understand better now so would the toe in make a difference as I have changed the toe link and dampers/rear but have not had the 4 wheel alinement done yet.
 
If you have not had tracking done yet the car could be going down the road slightly sideways and after a while the steering angle sensor (sas) thinks to its self some thing not right here and up pops suspension inactive, when you have tracking done the sas needs to be reset, it can be done with bmw inpa as maybe @Saint.V8 might know as for hawkeye not a clue.
 
I don't think Hawkeye does a recalibration....if you have the right profile file for the Range Rover for INPA as I am not sure the E53 X5 profile for INPA will work for recalibration.

If the suspension was allowed to dangle, this could move the sensor out of range, or move the internal contact wiper to a part of the track that is dirty (as it is seldom used) and the signal/data being sent to the ECU is spikey or of a reading the ECU thinks is not possible so it throws a validity or plausabilty fault.
 
Had my tracking done at old forge garage here in Lincoln (first time in 20 years had to pay somebody else to do something) and they reset SAS, I could see it was out on E53 x5 INPA but at the time could not work out how to reset it (have now), mine was throwing suspension inactive aswell after replacing rear toe bars.
 
petebowling said:
Hi gold rover
I have done the diagnostic on the rr now and didn't know if you had an idea the Hawkeyes says dtc 50 cam bus failure short circuit to positive sporadic. And the second said dtc 100 arthentication vacidity sporadic fault I'm a bit lost can you help please.
Thanks
Pete
Click to expand...
Above my pay grade , I'm afraid, but I see you have spoken to a grown up in the interim :)
 
kds said:
Had my tracking done at old forge garage here in Lincoln (first time in 20 years had to pay somebody else to do something) and they reset SAS, I could see it was out on E53 x5 INPA but at the time could not work out how to reset it (have now), mine was throwing suspension inactive aswell after replacing rear toe bars.
Click to expand...
That could be it then thanks I'll get the two new tyres on the front and have the alignment done and see what happens.
 
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