P38A Immobilized car, please help..

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When you turn the key four times from upright to lock and back to upright before entering the EKA code all doors should lock on the first turn. They should only open again on the last turn to unlock the car and turn the alarm off. The four initial turns to lock tell the BECM to be ready to receive the EKA code. There should be no further locking or unlocking until the final turn. Each turn has to be to lock or unlock as required and back to upright, do it slowly and purposefully completely to lock or unlock and back to upright before the next turn. Do not rush it.

Ok.. When i started the process of entering the EKA code, i made sure all doors were closed - and unlocked.
After entering the EKA code and turning they key one more time to the left (unlock), i noticed that not only the left back door is locked at the end of the process, but also right back door.

I guess there could be a malfunction in the door locking system of perhaps several doors.

"When you turn the key four times from upright to lock and back to upright before entering the EKA code all doors should lock on the first turn"
only the drivers door, left back , right back door lock at this point.
The front right and trunk dont react at all in the process. (I am driving an european left hand drive rover to be clear)

I guess the central lock needs some attention?
 
Check Marty's lock tests. IIRC the tailgate lock earths through the central locking switch so that microswitch might be bust. That would stop the EKA going in as it uses that microswitch to work out what the key is doing.
 
Check Marty's lock tests. IIRC the tailgate lock earths through the central locking switch so that microswitch might be bust. That would stop the EKA going in as it uses that microswitch to work out what the key is doing.

Exactly . . . CDL tells the BECM and Tailgate whether the drivers door is locked or unlocked. Key-Switch tells the BECM you are operating the key. The BECM figures out the EKA sequence using both switches together.

Remon,
I checked back through this thread, and cannot find if you posted the results of doing Marty's tests ??
 
Sorry I haven't got back here in awhile - been busy helping other owners replace heater boxes/cores/hoses etc and also starting to build a new engine for my own P38 - so haven't been online as much as usual.

I'll try and help clear up a bit of confusion around the locking switches etc..

The tailgate locking/unlocking is done through the Right Hand Front door, on both RHD and LHD vehicles. The only difference between RHD/LHD vehicles in regards to the latch is that the key switch changes side to match which door you put the key in. BOTH front doors have a CDL (central door locking) switch in it, which will tell the BECM the lock/unlock state of that door - and also control the central locking of other doors when the sill button is pressed down. The tailgate unlock motor is supplied power from the BECM, and the ground to the other side of the motor is controlled by the CDL switch in the RH door (it's not an additional switch in the latch, but rather just a splice in the loom) - which then either enables/disables the grounding of the tailgate motor (via the push button on the tailgate).

Being a '96 the method for entering the EKA will be one of 2 ways - both of which have been described already so I won't repeat it... If it's the earlier type, then you don't need the 4x turns to LOCK to begin the EKA sequence, you just start with the first digit of the EKA to lock. Unfortunately there is no documentation to actually say where the change in sequence happened, or what software version of the BECM has the additional 4x turns to lock to begin the sequence. My suggestion would the to try both ways, but if it isn't entering or being recognised, then make sure you open/close the drivers door after 2 attempts, and this will reset the counter... 3 unsuccessful attempts will give you KEYCODE LOCKOUT again, and you then begin the waiting game again for that to clear.

I would definitely be checking the door latch microswitches in the drivers door, to make sure that they are all working properly and that entering the EKA is actually possible. There is no point continuing to try and enter the EKA if there's a problem with the latch.

If the latch checks out, and the same with the RHF door, and the EKA STILL won't be accepted, then it's probably time to pull the BECM out and send it to someone like Myself, Callrova, All Car Electrics, or any of the other places that do BECM unlocking, as if nothing lets the EKA be entered, then it is entirely possible that the BECM has gone into an alarm lockout, and in addition to it not accepting the EKA at all - it can sometimes corrupt one of the digits of the EKA code that's programmed (I don't know if this is a fault, or a 'protective measure') which means that even if you have the correct code, and are entering it properly, it won't actually match either.

Check the door latch switches before anything else. Then at least we know if it is even possible for the EKA to be entered/sent to the BECM correctly.

Regards,
Marty
 
Exactly . . . CDL tells the BECM and Tailgate whether the drivers door is locked or unlocked. Key-Switch tells the BECM you are operating the key. The BECM figures out the EKA sequence using both switches together.

Remon,
I checked back through this thread, and cannot find if you posted the results of doing Marty's tests ??

I haven't, that's true.. I didn't have the right equipment and to be honest, I'm not that great with electronics..
The local workshop will pick up the car tomorrow, I will definitely show him the suggestions and test given by you guys! :)
 
Sorry I haven't got back here in awhile - been busy helping other owners replace heater boxes/cores/hoses etc and also starting to build a new engine for my own P38 - so haven't been online as much as usual.

I'll try and help clear up a bit of confusion around the locking switches etc..

The tailgate locking/unlocking is done through the Right Hand Front door, on both RHD and LHD vehicles. The only difference between RHD/LHD vehicles in regards to the latch is that the key switch changes side to match which door you put the key in. BOTH front doors have a CDL (central door locking) switch in it, which will tell the BECM the lock/unlock state of that door - and also control the central locking of other doors when the sill button is pressed down. The tailgate unlock motor is supplied power from the BECM, and the ground to the other side of the motor is controlled by the CDL switch in the RH door (it's not an additional switch in the latch, but rather just a splice in the loom) - which then either enables/disables the grounding of the tailgate motor (via the push button on the tailgate).

Being a '96 the method for entering the EKA will be one of 2 ways - both of which have been described already so I won't repeat it... If it's the earlier type, then you don't need the 4x turns to LOCK to begin the EKA sequence, you just start with the first digit of the EKA to lock. Unfortunately there is no documentation to actually say where the change in sequence happened, or what software version of the BECM has the additional 4x turns to lock to begin the sequence. My suggestion would the to try both ways, but if it isn't entering or being recognised, then make sure you open/close the drivers door after 2 attempts, and this will reset the counter... 3 unsuccessful attempts will give you KEYCODE LOCKOUT again, and you then begin the waiting game again for that to clear.

I would definitely be checking the door latch microswitches in the drivers door, to make sure that they are all working properly and that entering the EKA is actually possible. There is no point continuing to try and enter the EKA if there's a problem with the latch.

If the latch checks out, and the same with the RHF door, and the EKA STILL won't be accepted, then it's probably time to pull the BECM out and send it to someone like Myself, Callrova, All Car Electrics, or any of the other places that do BECM unlocking, as if nothing lets the EKA be entered, then it is entirely possible that the BECM has gone into an alarm lockout, and in addition to it not accepting the EKA at all - it can sometimes corrupt one of the digits of the EKA code that's programmed (I don't know if this is a fault, or a 'protective measure') which means that even if you have the correct code, and are entering it properly, it won't actually match either.

Check the door latch switches before anything else. Then at least we know if it is even possible for the EKA to be entered/sent to the BECM correctly.

Regards,
Marty
Thanks again Marty, I will definitely ask the workshop to first check the latches tomorrow. I'll let him read your post..

Hope the BECM has not gone to "lock mode".

Haven't mentioned it yet, but even though the alarm light is blinking, the alarm itself is disabled.

Tonight I experienced something new; when I pressed the lock button on the key fob, the red light start blinking very quickly for about 7 sec, could it mean the key fob is synced?

Anyhow, I will order a new latch and keep you all posted when I have a update..
 
Thanks again Marty, I will definitely ask the workshop to first check the latches tomorrow. I'll let him read your post..

Hope the BECM has not gone to "lock mode".

Haven't mentioned it yet, but even though the alarm light is blinking, the alarm itself is disabled.

Tonight I experienced something new; when I pressed the lock button on the key fob, the red light start blinking very quickly for about 7 sec, could it mean the key fob is synced?

Anyhow, I will order a new latch and keep you all posted when I have a update..

As said earlier you need someone with a Nanocom to disable immobiliser and EKA then you can use the key until you sort out your problems.
 
Hi!

Well, after a long time the range rover finally runs again!
I like to thank you all for your assistanse and guidance, i very much appreciate it!

I took out the BCME, diesel ecu and fuse box and send this together with the ignition key to an expert in Oslo. He removed the start-block, so i dont have to be afraid for this to happen again. Even the key works, i can open and close the doors by pressing the button. This was not the case before. Only the drivers door is opening a little "rough" so i have to use the key in addition, but i can live with that. I am super happy it runs again!

Thanks again for the help!
 
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