P38A Immobilized car, please help..

You need to be clear about what is on the message centre. If it says "Engine immobilised enter EKA or press fob" and the engine will NOT turn over. EKA code MUST be entered and accepted before car will turn over, if fob is not synced and has no effect when pressed. Fob can only be synced AFTER EKA code is accepted. IF there is no message on the message centre and the engine will crank but does not start the BECM has lost sync with the ECM. In this case there is a four number code stored in the ECM. This must be read and written into the BECM. You will need proper diagnostics, Nanocom or similar to do this. When the ignition is switched on the BECM compares the code written in it to the code stored in the ECM, if they match the engine ECU switches on and allows start. If they do not match the engine ECU is not switched on and you can crank the car all day and it will not start.

Did you replace the drivers door lock assembly, or the microswitches ? Once this is done, you have a chance to enter the EKA correctly. If the microswitches are faulty then you cannot enter the EKA either using the key or the sill button. After this you stand a chance of getting the BECM out of immobilised mode, and re-syncing the Fob in the ignition (depending on the year). Assuming the BECM & Engine ECU are still synced it might start.

Start from the beginning of this thread, and go through each suggestion in turn. For each suggestion, also reply with what you did, and the outcome, so we can see exactly what is working, and what is not.

It seems you have multiple issues to resolve, so resolve them separately and in order:

• EKA problem : Fix the door lock & test using Marty's PDF. Wait for Keycode Lockout to disappear, and then do the EKA process.
• Fuse Box : You either need to replace it, or repair it properly. If there are burnt parts or PCB tracks, then who knows what might be affected.
• Rear Door : Check the B-pillar connectors as suggested. Then see if the BECM unlocks it. If not then disconnect the connector, and try applying 12V directly to energise the motors. Do not do this with the door lock connected to the BECM. Edit . . .posts crossing over !! . . looks like you opened the door, but still need to fix the B-pillar connectors before it happens again.

Pete

It says : "Engine disabled, press remote or enter key code". the engine doesn't turn over.

I will try to enter the EKA code..

pwood999 said:

Did you replace the drivers door lock assembly, or the microswitches ? Once this is done, you have a chance to enter the EKA correctly. If the microswitches are faulty then you cannot enter the EKA either using the key or the sill button. After this you stand a chance of getting the BECM out of immobilised mode, and re-syncing the Fob in the ignition (depending on the year). Assuming the BECM & Engine ECU are still synced it might start.

Start from the beginning of this thread, and go through each suggestion in turn. For each suggestion, also reply with what you did, and the outcome, so we can see exactly what is working, and what is not.

It seems you have multiple issues to resolve, so resolve them separately and in order:

• EKA problem : Fix the door lock & test using Marty's PDF. Wait for Keycode Lockout to disappear, and then do the EKA process.
• Fuse Box : You either need to replace it, or repair it properly. If there are burnt parts or PCB tracks, then who knows what might be affected.
• Rear Door : Check the B-pillar connectors as suggested. Then see if the BECM unlocks it. If not then disconnect the connector, and try applying 12V directly to energise the motors. Do not do this with the door lock connected to the BECM.

Pete

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I should order a fuse box and door latch, to exclude that this is preventing the eka code to be accepted..

You should seriously think about buying a Nanocom. But do check different currency option because their website shows £365 or €415 which is very different to today's exchange rates.

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

Thanks for the reply. I should order a fuse box and door latch, to exclude that this is preventing the eka code to be accepted..

Click to expand...

I would think the the drivers door lock is faulty. Renew it and start from that. Fuse box and door lock may sort your problems. As said work through things logically.

pwood999 said:

Did you replace the drivers door lock assembly, or the microswitches ? Once this is done, you have a chance to enter the EKA correctly. If the microswitches are faulty then you cannot enter the EKA either using the key or the sill button. After this you stand a chance of getting the BECM out of immobilised mode, and re-syncing the Fob in the ignition (depending on the year). Assuming the BECM & Engine ECU are still synced it might start.

Start from the beginning of this thread, and go through each suggestion in turn. For each suggestion, also reply with what you did, and the outcome, so we can see exactly what is working, and what is not.

It seems you have multiple issues to resolve, so resolve them separately and in order:

• EKA problem : Fix the door lock & test using Marty's PDF. Wait for Keycode Lockout to disappear, and then do the EKA process.
• Fuse Box : You either need to replace it, or repair it properly. If there are burnt parts or PCB tracks, then who knows what might be affected.
• Rear Door : Check the B-pillar connectors as suggested. Then see if the BECM unlocks it. If not then disconnect the connector, and try applying 12V directly to energise the motors. Do not do this with the door lock connected to the BECM. Edit . . .posts crossing over !! . . looks like you opened the door, but still need to fix the B-pillar connectors before it happens again.

Pete

Click to expand...

I will have a look at the B-pillar connectors

How about the "Sync mate" alternative? Its less expensive then the Nanocom but it seems less reliable..
I have to wait a little for my next pay check / then I will start ordering parts (door lock, fuse box and perhaps nanocom/sync mate)..

I was really hoping that unlocking the left backdoor would do "the trick".
I must say that ive been reading a lot of different EKA unlocking modes. One of them being that you have to add one number to the second and 4th number?

I guess I have to be patience and start ordering / replacing parts step by step..

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

How about the "Sync mate" alternative? Its less expensive then the Nanocom but it seems less reliable..
I have to wait a little for my next pay check / then I will start ordering parts (door lock, fuse box and perhaps nanocom/sync mate)..

I was really hoping that unlocking the left backdoor would do "the trick".
I must say that ive been reading a lot of different EKA unlocking modes. One of them being that you have to add one number to the second and 4th number?

I guess I have to be patience and start ordering / replacing parts step by step..

Click to expand...

Syncmate is for syncing the ECM to the BECM as explained before it will do nothing for your EKA code. EKA can be entered with Nanocom IF your BECM is PAM36 standard or better. Earlier ones it will not do. Don't take any notice of the EKA code rubbish advice. Just enter it as you have it. When you can get it to take.

All doors should probably be closed for EKA, simply because it requires the vehicle to be in a locked state. Any open doors will result in Mislock, and prevent you from being in the initial status.

The EKA rumours are exactly that . . . i.e. rumours. If the microswitches are bad, then the only option is to connect the lock wires in the correct sequence. This will be difficult to achieve, so best to replace the lock or microswitches.

Also the Sync Mate only does the BECM-Engine ECU sync. It's no use for anything else, so sort the EKA first, before you purchase something you might not require.

Exact EKA procedure is in RAVE ETM (electrical trouble shooting), Central Locking section.. . .

BTW, always use "Unlock & Lock" instead of Left & Right procedure. This is what causes confusion between right & left hand drive cars.

NOTE: All handsets must be resynchronised when the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected.
A handset may be resynchronised by performing a key lock, or unlock, on either front door within 30 seconds of performing a remote lock, superlock, or unlock function. The BeCM uses the change of state of the CDL Switch to initiate resynchronisation.

Emergency Key Access (EKA)
EKA is used to disarm the theft alarm and mobilise the vehicle in the event of a handset failure. This is possible through a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver’s door lock cylinder. With the vehicle locked and the alarm armed, turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence:

1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
5. Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors, disarm the alarm, and mobilise the vehicle.

NOTE: The key must be fully turned to the rest and lock/unlock position each time. After 3 wrong attempts, you must wait 10 minutes for the Keycode Lockout to disappear. Alternatively open the drivers door after 2nd attempt, and start again.

Picture of the BECM..

looks like its an old version..?

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

looks like its an old version..?

Click to expand...

Looks to say PAM 32.

pwood999 said:

All doors should probably be closed for EKA, simply because it requires the vehicle to be in a locked state. Any open doors will result in Mislock, and prevent you from being in the initial status.

The EKA rumours are exactly that . . . i.e. rumours. If the microswitches are bad, then the only option is to connect the lock wires in the correct sequence. This will be difficult to achieve, so best to replace the lock or microswitches.

Also the Sync Mate only does the BECM-Engine ECU sync. It's no use for anything else, so sort the EKA first, before you purchase something you might not require.

Exact EKA procedure is in RAVE ETM (electrical trouble shooting), Central Locking section.. . .

BTW, always use "Unlock & Lock" instead of Left & Right procedure. This is what causes confusion between right & left hand drive cars.

NOTE: All handsets must be resynchronised when the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected.
A handset may be resynchronised by performing a key lock, or unlock, on either front door within 30 seconds of performing a remote lock, superlock, or unlock function. The BeCM uses the change of state of the CDL Switch to initiate resynchronisation.

Emergency Key Access (EKA)
EKA is used to disarm the theft alarm and mobilise the vehicle in the event of a handset failure. This is possible through a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver’s door lock cylinder. With the vehicle locked and the alarm armed, turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence:

1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
5. Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors, disarm the alarm, and mobilise the vehicle.

NOTE: The key must be fully turned to the rest and lock/unlock position each time. After 3 wrong attempts, you must wait 10 minutes for the Keycode Lockout to disappear. Alternatively open the drivers door after 2nd attempt, and start again.

Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for this explanation!
I am thinking now, do all doors have to be locked before you start entering the code or is it ok to just have them closed?

Its good to know what to invest in at this point.. I guess the first thing to replace should be the lock with microswitches..

wammers said:

Looks to say PAM 32.

Click to expand...

Ok.. so i guess that means using the Nanocom device is of the list..

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

Thanks a lot for this explanation!
I am thinking now, do all doors have to be locked before you start entering the code or is it ok to just have them closed?

Its good to know what to invest in at this point.. I guess the first thing to replace should be the lock with microswitches..

Click to expand...

Closed. Car must be unlocked with doors closed. Four movements from upright to locked and back to upright. If the EKA was 1234 that would be four turns upright to locked and back to upright. 1 movement from upright to unlock. 2 movements from upright to locked. 3 movements from upright to unlocked. 4 movements from upright to locked. Then 1 movement from upright to unlock and all the doors should unlock.

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

Ok.. so i guess that means using the Nanocom device is of the list..

Click to expand...

Yes PAM 32 means Nanocom cannot be used to enter the EKA code on your car. It will have to be done manually.

wammers said:

Yes PAM 32 means Nanocom cannot be used to enter the EKA code on your car. It will have to be done manually.

Click to expand...

Ok, not the news i hoped for, but at least its good to know.

wammers said:

Closed. Car must be unlocked with doors closed. Four movements from upright to locked and back to upright. If the EKA was 1234 that would be four turns upright to locked and back to upright. 1 movement from upright to unlock. 2 movements from upright to locked. 3 movements from upright to unlocked. 4 movements from upright to locked. Then 1 movement from upright to unlock and all the doors should unlock.

Click to expand...

Ok. I will try this once more.
What i can add is when i start the process by turning the key 4 times to the right, the left back door is locking as well and doesnt come out of this locking state unless i manually unlock it.

Could this be the source of the problem since you say that all doors should be closed but unlocked in the process? Should look closer to the previous suggestion to the b-pillar connectors i guess. I did not quiet understand it but i will put some time into it and investigate how to fix this.

Rémon Silvester janisse said:

Ok. I will try this once more.
What i can add is when i start the process by turning the key 4 times to the right, the left back door is locking as well and doesnt come out of this locking state unless i manually unlock it.

Could this be the source of the problem since you say that all doors should be closed but unlocked in the process? Should look closer to the previous suggestion to the b-pillar connectors i guess. I did not quiet understand it but i will put some time into it and investigate how to fix this.

Click to expand...

When you turn the key four times from upright to lock and back to upright before entering the EKA code all doors should lock on the first turn. They should only open again on the last turn to unlock the car and turn the alarm off. The four initial turns to lock tell the BECM to be ready to receive the EKA code. There should be no further locking or unlocking until the final turn. Each turn has to be to lock or unlock as required and back to upright, do it slowly and purposefully completely to lock or unlock and back to upright before the next turn. Do not rush it.