Immobiliser problemo

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gR@HaM

gR@HaM

Well-Known Member
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Location
Cheshire
Have just worked me bits off this eve rebuilding the disco with the hope to get it fired up. After a serious amount of head scratching whilst trying to remember where all the ancilliaries go, and realising it might be a good idea to put sone fuel in the tank, she was ready to fire up!! :)

..denied - couldn't get past flashing immobiliser light, engine not turning, nuffink.
First port of call will be to get a new battery for the fob.
Is there anything else obvious I should be looking for?
The battery has been disconnected for a good 12months but I've been plugging it into charger every 6weeks or so.
The previous owner has wired in a domestic light switch for ignition and removed the internal batterys from the alarm casing - although can't imagine either of these are causing the problem ad it would start before I took it apart.

Have done a search, but it seams that bypassing immobiliser should only be done if red key/immobilser light on dash isn't flashing.
Also all posts mentioning sychronising fobs are for the single button type.

Any help/pointers much appreciated - need to get the 'ol beast up and running asap!
 
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To make certain it's not immobilised take a strong enough wire and give a (+) from the battery directly to the starter for a short time(off course contact on and out of gear)......if the engine starts and works normally at least U have a clue.
 
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Also if you worked around, jacked it up and down etc. it's good to push the Inertia Fuel Shut-Off Switch in the engine compartment just to be sure.
 
Still no joy, help!! :(
I have red light flash (car symbol with lock inside) can only guess it's immobiliser.
Hard wiring +ve to where brown/White cable goes into starter motor doesn't result in engine turning - just a click.
New battery in fob hasn't worked.
As I got a new key cut wasn't sure whether there was a chip in the old one so that's also sat on the dash, no joy.
For some reason there is no inertia switch under bonnet just the bracket and cable! Tried wiring all 3 connectors on the cable together (not sure whether switch needs to be on or off) didn't work.
Any other ideas pls?
 
Before you need to change your battery, make absolutely certain you know how to.

DO NOT assume it's as simple as just changing the battery.

Firstly check out this site to find your key fob.

Key Fob Replacement Batteries

Make sure you have the correct replacement battery.

Next assuming you still have power in your key fob turn your alarm off before you start changing the battery.

If your key fob looks like this though

P1010149.jpg


You will need to
1, Open the key fob case.
2, Remove the old battery.
3, Press both of the buttons one at a time for at least 10 seconds.
4, Fit the new battery positive " + " side facing upwards.
5, Reassemble the two halves of the keyfob.
6, Press the left hand button once.

If you need to reset yer imobiliser
You will need an EKA code from Landrover

Hope that helps

Steve
 
gR@HaM said:
Still no joy, help!! :(
doesn't result in engine turning - just a click.
Any other ideas pls?
Click to expand...

If you hear that click when you try to start it from the key too then is the starter solenoid.........bypass the solenoid with that (+) direct to the clamp which leads into the starter motor ....it must turn the engine.....unless tha starter motor is gone
That "click" gave me suspicions......now I'm pretty sure that is not an immobiliser problem......charge the main battery like hell also

Check out this thread too http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-300tdi-immobiliser-bypass-easy-way-57839.html
 
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Okay I'm officially stoopid just realised I was thinking starter motor was the alternator!!
How do I get to starter motor and what colour is the wire?
Is it under aircon pump somewhere?? Tanks
 
Horrah! Have found the starter motor and it's turning over.
Next issue trying to get it started. Had removed the fuel tank and changed filter - anyone know whether I need to pump the fuel in manually?
Thanks
 
First of all put the contact on(to ignition) and check with a multimeter if the fuel pump is feeded.........I'm worried because U messed with the inertia switch cable too.........I dunno how is that one working or what it means if it's missing........I just think it's connected to a relay which must get an impulse from it :confused:....... maybe some other mates.

When U turn the key to ignition do all the lights switch off ?

..Therewith if it's air in the fuel system it wont start either.

I'd say U better plug it in a tester if U can......it'll save U a lot of time.
 
sierrafery said:
First of all put the contact on(to ignition) and check with a multimeter if the fuel pump is feeded.........I'm worried because U messed with the inertia switch cable too.........I dunno how is that one working or what it means if it's missing........I just think it's connected to a relay which must get an impulse from it :confused:....... maybe some other mates.

When U turn the key to ignition do all the lights switch off ?

..Therewith if it's air in the fuel system it wont start either.

I'd say U better plug it in a tester if U can......it'll save U a lot of time.
Click to expand...

First off thanks for the help much appreciated :)
Here's where I'm up to so far:

*After managing to locate the starter motor, connecting to +ve on the battery turns the engine over.
*Have followed your link to bypassing the immobiliser by running a cable from starter relay in drivers footwell direct to starter motor. Engine now turns over on flick of switch1 (previous owner has wired domestic double switch into ignition - #1 used to switch ignition on, #2 used to turn engine over. Therefore my concern now is that if the engine does fire up, does this mean the starter motor will keep turning over??)
*Battery is now flat so leaving to charge over night.

Next step for tomorrow is to try firing it up with fully charged battery and check that there is a live feed to fuel pump.

Regarding air in fuel lines I did make sure that sedimenter and filter were both filled with diesel when putting back together so hopefully that will do the trick..
 
gR@HaM said:
First off thanks for the help much appreciated :)
bypassing the immobiliser by running a cable from starter relay in drivers footwell direct to starter motor.
Therefore my concern now is that if the engine does fire up, does this mean the starter motor will keep turning over??)
..
Click to expand...

Be aware, the cable from relay must go to starter solenoid.......the main + is going thro' the solenoid's contacts and feed the motor's coil and pushes forward the drive pinion of it..... so after the engine has started and you leave the ignition key the solenoid musnt have feed as to cut the starter motor's feed and release the drive...........if U are not sure of what U've done and hopefuly the engine will work by itself check with a multimeter the feed clamp of the solenoid(not the hard wire) to be certain that it's not under voltage....... (it'll always be 12V on the main clamp so don't confuse them).......good luck.......and if it's not working take a bigger hammer;)
 
Ahh, starter solenoid not the starter motor itself. Was ruddy hard to get access to the back of starter motor to make contact with the +ve.
Excuse my stupidity but where's the solenoid? Would this be a small unit located on top of the starter motor??
 
why are ya messing with the wiring on the back of the starter motor its easyer to locate the feed under the steering wheel where fuse box is and splice a new +12v feed on to it there from memory its the thick yellow wire mind use a multi meter first to locate it , hwo have you wired the injector pump up ???
 
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