I'm stuck!

Hello,

I'm in the middle of changing my timing belt, the local garage have let me borrow some of their tools (ie. breaker bar and large socket) to get the crank bolt out (which I have done successfully) but now I cant get the crank pully off. I don't have a crank puller and I don't really want to call the garage again, they'll have no tools left! I have sprayed a load of penetrating oil around the seam. How can I get the bugger off without having to use a crank puller or prising against the timing case?

Does anybody about Adel side of Leeds have a crank puller I could borrow?

Thanks in advance
-Pos

The pulleys aren't very tough an you can easily bust a lump off if you're not careful.

****

int there someone close by - Pikey, mondeo, grant?

Garage has leant me theres! Lovely chappies! Now how the hell do I lock the timing wheels in place? There's little holes through them but there doesn't seem to be holes to slot anyting into behind them (even when they are all lined up on timing marks)?????

Also, (and I have had a little search around), should I line my injection pump wheel up with the F mark or the little dot?

Thank you very much
-Pos

Which one was it lined up to when you took the belt off?

I can't remember what mine is lined up to, but I tell you, its perfect what ever it is.

the arrow on the back casing is smack bang in between the f and the dot for my injection pump, with the belt still on and the crank shaft sprocket lined up perfectly. The cam sprocket is also lined up perfectly.

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding here, but the two holes drilled through the sprocket should line up with some holes on the back casing that I can push a couple of drill bits into in order to secure the cog?

No a little pin goes into the side of the pump, but it can be done without them.

a pin goes into the side of the pump, as in the actual injection pump body? What does the pin do and how does it work?

This was discussed somewhere before i feel... If you line up the little stamped dots on the injection pump, the camshaft and the crankshaft with the arrows stamped into the housing behind them then that is then pretty much timed up. To do it properly (which i didn't and my engine still runs fine 10000 miles on) you take out the bolt onthe flywheel cover, and the bolt in the injection pump, and screw in two special tools with a spring loaded pin in them. you then turn the engine until the flywheel one drops in, and then if the pump hasn't dropped in then you lossen the pump and turn it until that one drops in. Then you take off the belt.
However... my belt snapped, and i don't see how you know where to put the camshaft while the IP and the flywheel are locked. So, I used the dots, NOT the woodruff key that someone else told me. If you slacken the tensioner right off, as you will have to anyway, you can then get the 3 wheels to stay in place (the camshaft is the hardest) and get the new belt on.

Like i said, I have been called a fool for not using the pins, but i couldn't get the flywheel plug out anyway. The engine is still fine, and the only damage done as the cambelt snapped was 4 push rods got bent, so i guess if the timing is a tooth out then at worst itll do that for you, which is hardly an expensive fix. Less than 2 special tools. Which 'can' be made, apparently, from a very carefully drilled bolt, with a drill bit put through the hole as a locking pin. I'd rather not...

Thanks for your reply! I ended up just putting a dot of tipex on the front side of each sprocket (over the timing mark) so that when I took the belt off, I could see if one of the wheels spun around really quickly. The crankshaft and the cam shaft sprockets stayed perfectly still, only the injection pumo could rotate but that was easy enough to line back up!

Not as bad as I thought it was going to be, only problem I have now is re-tightening the crank bolt, I haven't done it as tight as I could have done, and I forgot to put some locktite on the thread.

-Pos

The torque settings for that bolt is meant to be 199lb/ft, which is forking tight. I didn't locktite mine when I put it back in, and is hasn't come loose. I used the breaking bar i used to remove it, and got my friend to select top gear and stand on the brakes. I then basically tighened it against the engine, as tight as I could, which appears to be tight enough.

Yes I remember doing that as well, while CharlesY tightened the crank pully nut on with a 2 foot torque wrench... It looked to be about 199lb/ft he was tightening it to by the expression on his face...

So what LR are saying Pos, is this:
"We don't want this fooking thing coming off"

Aye. Much like that poxy drop arm nut, which kept coming loose on my, err, drop arm. So i rolled about under the car for a while on the end of a similar torque wrench, much to the amusement of my neighbors. Bastid aint come loose again yet...

lol, I'll tighten it right up then, just a springy bugger int it!

Following the rebuild, my 90 is now smoking (white smoke) a fair bit more on start up, which must be down to the timing belt that I fitted. I adjusted the timing earlier (rotated pump towards engine) which is increasing the timing I believe? If I keep adjusting the pump backwards (away from the engine) should the smoking stop at a certain point?

Thanks!
-Pos

Yeah if you search on this forum there is a very detailed method for setting the injection timing to be spot on! Rotating towards the engine, I think, retards the timing but I am not sure.