Freelander 1 Ignition barrel removal

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,585
Location
Devon
Does anyone know how to remove key and barrel without taking steering lock off column?? Key sticks sometimes and I know it will fail at a bad moment!! Tried all the lock lubricants etc. Thats the prob with low mileage old cars. Lots of turns of key!! Thanks
 
There's normally a locking pin that needs to be pressed in, which then allows the barrel to be withdrawn. You normally need to turn the key to the accessory or ignition position, or the press pin won't go in. Look all round the barrel for the press pin, I'm sure it'll be there somewhere.
 
Will post photos but barrel is held in by roll pins and a steel pin. Had a careful try to remove but doesn't seem possible. Not wanting to damage this good spare unit I am going to use it to replace the faulty unit. Then I can open up the failed unit which may show an easier way in. Tried to remove tiny flush roll pins with a 9ba tap screwed in but not shifting. Drilling roll pins seems fraught as they are hardened.
 
Photos - You don't need to remove the steering wheel and the indicator / wiper stalks, but it made it easier, less risk of damage and meant that a photo was possible !
You do need to remove the steering column plastic cover - carefully peel off the rubber ring around the ignition key switch first to avoid damaging the immobiliser coil (which can be removed later).

DSC_0919.JPG Then it looks like this. Shear bolts at top of photo - unscrewed with careful application of a shard small cold chisel and a hammer - you only need to loosen one and undo the other if you have the column stripped as shown as it then slides off once the steering lock dog has dropped out of the column.
DSC_0923.JPG Applied thus !
DSC_0924.JPG Once loosened turn with pliers or old wire cutters - then drop the ignition key assembly to free the steering lock and withdraw. If you haven't taken the rest of the bits off take both bolts right out.
DSC_0925.JPG Once on the bench carefully (lift plastic tags) remove the immobiliser coil and the light up perspex ring.
DSC_0926.JPG Then you have this on one side.............
DSC_0927.JPG and this on the other.

Now, I haven't got an Xray machine, but I'm thinking that the steel pin and the roll pin don't go right through or the barrel wouldn't turn. I have tapped the roll pin on one side and it doesn't move on the other, I imagine that drilling both out would free the barrel but would it go back together again? When I have the broken lock to play with I will drill them out, see if it was necessary, see if it gets the barrel free and then tap the holes and try to replace with short grub screws. More of this soon.
 
Guess what happened to my ignition key this morning. Nothing. It won't bloody turn. So it looks like I'm going to have to strip out the lock. So annoying, just when the FL1 has behaved it's self for long too. :(
 
Don't you just love them!! We have had times when the key seems to be unturnable but by jiggling, turning upside down and pulling out a fraction it goes round in the end. Never completed this investigation as I realised my spare was from a manual and duff one on auto!! It will let us down one day. Let us know how you get on.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Don't you just love them!!
Click to expand...
Only when they're behaving. :p
andyfreelandy said:
We have had times when the key seems to be unturnable but by jiggling, turning upside down and pulling out a fraction it goes round in the end.
Click to expand...

Mine has needed the jiggle treatment twice in 3 years.

So I was quite surprised when out of the blue, the key was stuck fast. Looks like I'm going to need carry out some surgery on the lock. :(
 
This reminded me to look at changing the one on my wife's TD4 auto 2002.

Just checked with local dealer and obtained quote:

Lock assembly = £431.19 + vat retail
Key = £106.22 = vat retail
Ordered to chassis number
Will require programming £50 - £60 estimated

So about £705 if I only want one key !
Have asked for part number to see if I can obtain one cheaper.
 
If you can work out how to get the roll pins out and maybe the metal stud type things that seem to hold the barrel then Land Rover wouldn't have us over one !!
 
Incidentally, I think there may be a 'security' lock within the barrel somewhere. I had a key blank cut to fit into my 'flip out key' and the first time I put it in it wouldn't turn but then nor would my original key ! This is in a barrel that had not given any problems before. When the key was cut properly it was fine. Or is it just a sticking lock pawl which had been pushed where it hadn't been before?? I seem to recall that it came right only when left for a while, not when sprayed with contact cleaner or wiggled. Maybe I am crediting LR with too much cleverness but I did wonder if it was a lock out for when the wrong key was used.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Lock assembly = £431.19 + vat retail
Key = £106.22 = vat retail
Ordered to chassis number
Will require programming £50 - £60 estimated

So about £705 if I only want one key !
Click to expand...

If they could supply just the barrel, which matches the current keys, then it would be much cheaper.

andyfreelandy said:
If you can work out how to get the roll pins out and maybe the metal stud type things that seem to hold the barrel then Land Rover wouldn't have us over one !!
Click to expand...

I'll find a way, and make up some new pins if I have too.
 
andyfreelandy said:
If you can work out how to get the roll pins out and maybe the metal stud type things that seem to hold the barrel then Land Rover wouldn't have us over one !!
Click to expand...

I've removed the 2 staked in brass pins. It took some doing, and was a one way trip for them.
I'll make a couple more pins, to reassemble the lock assembly, once I've repaired the lock.

Removal of the 2 roll pins will take some "modification" of the lock casing. I'll need to cut the casing back, enough to get some Mole grips on the ends of the roll pins. I'm hoping this will allow me to pull them out of the housing.
 
andyfreelandy said:
I wondered if a 3mm carbide burr could cut the roll pins down, then replace?
Click to expand...
Roll pins are buggers to remove, unless tapped from behind, which obviously can't happen. I think the best way is reduce the hight of the metal around them, so they can be pulled out with vise grips.
andyfreelandy said:
Did you drill the staked pins?
Click to expand...

Yes I drilled the first one with a 3mm drill and tried to pull it out with an easy-out. This didn't work, so had a rethink.
I drilled too deep on that first one too, so decided to drill the hight of the pin down on the second one with a 5mm drill. I then drilled the swaged in part of the casing around the pins, so the pins would be free to be withdrawn. This allows the pins to become loose enough for them to fall out with a few taps. The pins themselves are just some form of brass or gun metal, very easy to drill.

So I'm at the point where I have the 2 pins pins remove. I'll attack the roll pins tonight and see how I get on. It occurred to me last night that that the key for my scrap MGF has the same key shape as the Freelander, so I'm thinking of swapping all the locks from the F into the Freelander. I bet all the lock barrels are identical. I think the F ignition barrel will have a longer life, as it's only done 40K miles.

I'll update when there's something to add to this.
 
Found a new old stock auto steering lock with key for £135 so have bought that. Might do an autopsy on the old one. If I use the new key with no chip and keep the original chip in the old key on the key ring, will that satisfy the sensor loop on the column?? Will also get a second key cut as a spare.
 
Well I finally managed to get the ignition lock apart last night. I ended up tapping the back end of the lock, which made the roll pins break free. I then stripped the lock barrel so I could find the offending lock lever. I couldn't actually work out which one was giving the issue, so set about removing them at random, until I got the lock to rotate again. Once working, I reassembled the lock assembly using an undamaged locking pin and roll pin. The 2 steel rollers were left out, as those were also jamming the key. The rest was just a simple reassembly job, for which I fired up the FBH, so I could work in the warm.

So for now, the ignition lock is functional, although I'm definitely going to swap it for the MGF lock, once the weather warms up a bit.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Well done. Snowed in today! Do you think the chip in another key on the ring will communicate with the coil?
Click to expand...

I had to get the Freelander on the road for today, as the BMW with its comedy summer tyres was rather slippery getting home last evening. We only get 2 inches of snow a year, but Cornwall stops with have that amount on the ground.

The transponder ring should be ok, as both locks have the same design anyway. The only announce is I've managed to misplace the clear light ring. :(
 
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