I need some sound advice . Speakers and sub needed .

I have spent the last 2 days researching speakers subs and amplifiers .I am only a little less confused . I would like to get the best I can afford ,first time .

I have just replaced the head unit with a sony radio,cd,usb,mp3 player . Because the old set was so sh!t and could barely pick up a radio station ,I never noticed that my drivers door speaker was knackered, as is the rear driver side .

Now I need new speakers and I might replace the tweeters .I would like to fit a space saver sub woofer (at a later date) under a front seat .

I know I need 16.5mm diameter speakers with a depth of 50mm or less .I am tempted to purchase some Alpine - Custom Fit Speakers - SXE-1750S for the front and Alpine - Custom Fit Speakers - SXE-1725S for the rear or I might go with pioneers .

good price, you'll notice a vast improvement if you fit them.

3.5 efi said:

good price, you'll notice a vast improvement if you fit them.

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The spec of the 1750 seems similar to the spec of the 1725 ,but not exactly the same . The 1750 have the tweeters and cost £24 more .

The nice lady in the room who has a credit card says she will order in the morning .

Cant you try and pick up a second hand genuine sub, since it will fit into the rear stowage box?

Vissie said:

Cant you try and pick up a second hand genuine sub, since it will fit into the rear stowage box?

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Genuine LR ? no
I wouldn't put anything that could be ruined by moisture in that rear basin . I will fit new speakers and maybe change the tweeters too . I will then decide if I want a sub .

Just rang around locally and a guy asked me if I was sure I wanted 165mm . I went out and checked I need 135mm .

I concur - they are 135mm on all four doors. My Pioneers in the back were a bit deep, so I had to mount them proud of the door trim. Seems OK as long as the git-kids don't boot them too hard

Can't comment on a sub as I haven't got one on mine.

You might find you are better off running door speakers through an auxiliary amplifier in order to gain better control of high and low frequencies.

In my saab, i run 2 6" door speakers through an auna 300w micro amp connected via phonograph to the original head unit and there is no need for a sub.

Set up your system right and you won't need one. Those Sony had units are usually geared for high pm music or rock so play with presets and don't settle for stock.

Kenwood make good units but avoid 3 or 4 way units as you have separate tweeters and it sounds like mounting depth is and issue. Plus you can get better bass from a 2 way mid range.

Creeeg said:

I concur - they are 135mm on all four doors. My Pioneers in the back were a bit deep, so I had to mount them proud of the door trim. .

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The aperture in the door has a diameter of 137mm,I freaked out a bit , earlier . I ordered these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-XS-F17...E&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344883478&sr=1-2 and the ope needs to be 169mm acording to this diagram http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4191144131.pdf . I will use some foam or aero board to pack it out the 3mm it needs to fit in .

twin_cam_turbo said:

You might find you are better off running door speakers through an auxiliary amplifier in order to gain better control of high and low frequencies.

In my saab, i run 2 6" door speakers through an auna 300w micro amp connected via phonograph to the original head unit and there is no need for a sub.

Set up your system right and you won't need one. Those Sony had units are usually geared for high pm music or rock so play with presets and don't settle for stock.

Kenwood make good units but avoid 3 or 4 way units as you have separate tweeters and it sounds like mounting depth is and issue. Plus you can get better bass from a 2 way mid range.

Click to expand...

Thanx ,I don't know much about this subject (or anything much ,really ). I have this head set Sony CDX-GT450U CD/Mp3 Head Unit with Front USB and: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics and I'm not sure if I need an amp . Might I ?

I got my speakers today . I used the old wire to connect .Is that a bad idea ?
Yesterday I checked the ampage and found a reading of 39.9 to the front and 28 to the rear (I only checked the driver side) .I only got a reading when I put the red positive lead from the meter to the cable with black stripe ,so I am guessing they are the positive leads ?
Anyway I hooked up the driver side front and rear speakers and they work .Would they work even if I hooked them up wrong ?

OldIrishWulf said:

I got my speakers today . I used the old wire to connect .Is that a bad idea ?
Yesterday I checked the ampage and found a reading of 39.9 to the front and 28 to the rear (I only checked the driver side) .I only got a reading when I put the red positive lead from the meter to the cable with black stripe ,so I am guessing they are the positive leads ?
Anyway I hooked up the driver side front and rear speakers and they work .Would they work even if I hooked them up wrong ?

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surely you mean resistance ?

it won't matter if you have connected the polarity of the speakers the wrong way round, as long as they are all done the same. other wise you will get phase cancellation, one speaker cone will be coming out while the other is going in, this will kill the bass response. and it will sound really odd.

Oiw - you might not. Afyernarket dad units are geared for base. Run it and see. If you decide you need an amp in there to drive more base than you can retrofit later.

P.s. Agree with OP on the above. Try it once to see. Confused me the first time i did it!

OldIrishWulf said:

Just rang around locally and a guy asked me if I was sure I wanted 165mm . I went out and checked I need 135mm .

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Only just seen this thread now. I remember when i replaced my front speakers, they were 16.5cm diameter. Surprised yours are 13.5cm?

Optimus Prime said:

surely you mean resistance ?

it won't matter if you have connected the polarity of the speakers the wrong way round, as long as they are all done the same. other wise you will get phase cancellation, one speaker cone will be coming out while the other is going in, this will kill the bass response. and it will sound really odd.

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Thanks Optimus P . I had no idea, whacked the volt meter on the wires and nothing registered till I turned it to measure A . I have no idea how speakers work , so thank you for the advice .

twin_cam_turbo said:

Oiw - you might not. Afyernarket dad units are geared for base. Run it and see. If you decide you need an amp in there to drive more base than you can retrofit later.

P.s. Agree with OP on the above. Try it once to see. Confused me the first time i did it!

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They work , but they might work better if I switched the wires . They're perfect for now .

freebiker said:

Only just seen this thread now. I remember when i replaced my front speakers, they were 16.5cm diameter. Surprised yours are 13.5cm?

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True , they are 165mm .

I was convinced they were 165mm from the threads I had read . When a guy asked me if I was sure they were 165mm, I went out and whipped off the door card and measured the hole in the door ,which is about 137mm .

A? you sure it's not an Omega sign

Anyway all this fancy tweeters, subs, amps dont mean a crock if yer hearing is up the swannee..... like some of us knackered old ****s LOL

OldIrishWulf said:

True , they are 165mm .

I was convinced they were 165mm from the threads I had read . When a guy asked me if I was sure they were 165mm, I went out and whipped off the door card and measured the hole in the door ,which is about 137mm .

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The hole will be smaller than the speaker remember

it has to have a lip for it to sit on else the speaker would just fall through the hole

Skynet said:

A? you sure it's not an Omega sign

Anyway all this fancy tweeters, subs, amps dont mean a crock if yer hearing is up the swannee..... like some of us knackered old ****s LOL

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I'm a bit deaf in my right ear and the speakers on that side were knackered . Now they're working I dont have to strain my right ear to hear the left speakers .