Hub assembly - Stub axle - Half shaft

ok guy, long story short. i thought i got a blow out on the M5 last night but it turned out to be something in the passenger side front hub. got towed home.

took it apart this morning to find that the locking nuts were loose and some idiot only used 1 locking tab! anyway the outer bearings were fine but the inner ones were mashed!

ive got the parts for the hub (gasket, seal, bearings etc.) so this isnt a problem.

my question is, should i also take the stub axle off and the half shaft out to see if there is anything wrong with them? i dont have the ness gaskets and stuff at the mo so wont be able to put it back together for a few days. the splined bit (not sure if its the stub or half shaft) floats in and out by 3mm and also moves around a bit. is this normal?

do you think some play in the wheel and ****ed bearings would cause my loss of steering? or should i look further into my axle?

Thanks guys, you lot are excellent!

G

ad check the part where the bearings fit fer big gouges and other damage. other than that i think you should be ok. if need be you can alway make gaskets from a old cornflakes packet, or a new one if you dunt got a old one.

thats what i dont understand. the bearing surfaces are fine. still very smooth! considering i drove 2miles to exeter services AFTER it went, i think this is remarkable.

thats whati wanted to hear slob so i can put it back together this afternoon and everything will be back to normal

Cheers

G

I'd take the lot apart and have a look at the CV joint and stub shaft bush while I'm at it. The play in the drive shaft is taken up with shims between the driving member and the drive shaft circlip, its should be something like 5 to 15 thou though don't take my word for that, it's definitely not 3mm.

ok, im in the process of putting the hub assembly back on. i cant seem to get the whole thing on far enough. the disk isnt anywhere near where it should be

could i have put the inner oil seal in wrong? ive got it so its flush with the hub surface. with the oil seal like this the inner bearing seems to "float" between the race and seal. is this normal? id expect it to be tight, but i dont want to wack the oil seal all the way in cos the haynes manual says it needs to be flush.

both bearing races are right in and flush with the lips.

do i just need to wack the assembly on with a hammer?

confused. help!

G

The Outer race should go hard up to it's seat and the seal has its own seat that it should sit up against.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7361

The inner race will flap about till you get it onto the stub axle and then it should but up against the face in front of the seal diameter.

This is the nearest pic I've got it's the stub axle with both bearings slotted over it http://www.landyzone.co.uk/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7360

cheers for that grunt. i went out for one last look before it gets dark and i know exactly whats happened. when i pulled the bits of the old race out, i only pulled the needle bearings and the holder... the inner part of the bearing is welded onto the stub axle! thats why it wouldnt go on.

stupid is as stupid does. or something like that.

so now i need to remove it from the stub axle without scoring it. any suggestions? i thought maybe heat would expand it. i might go out and buy a pair of stilsons too. what you think?

i just thought i was part of the stub axle assembly!

still learning will try again tomorrow eve.

G

So the inner race is stuck to the stub shaft............Then a pound to a pinch of ****e the stub axle will be ****ed, though you may be lucky. You could try grinding a flat on the race till you just get to the axle and attacking it with a chisel or doing the same opposite and the two halves should fall off. The inner race is a running fit over the axle, and if the preload on the two bearings isn't set right the inner race can spin get hot and weld itself to the shaft.

i see... THAT sounds like a freaking ball ache why would the stubby be fecked if the bearing welded itself to it? will prob have to invest in a grinder for this one, doubt my dremel could handle it.

thanks again grunt

Cos the new bearing won't sit properly on it. How much is a new stub axle?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/urgent-needed-wanted-40062.html
Just seen this.

Thanks again. i never look in the disco bit!

New stubby is £28 + V.A.T. from the usual suspects. i will give it a bash with a dremel tomorrow eve as MHM seems to have done this sucessfully on his TRUCK a dozen times... must be the way he pre-loads his bearings

G

lol - good one - not on the same vehicle. the trick is to ALMOST cut through the ring in at least two places - then use a chisel to shatter the ring from the shaft - take care and protect yo eyes tho

The Mad Hat Man said:

take care and protect yo eyes tho

Click to expand...

your starting to sound like my old man

G

its Adz' Safety talk

Thats OK, son

Griffdowg said:

took it apart this morning to find that the locking nuts were loose and some idiot only used 1 locking tab!

G

Click to expand...

you are only supposed to have one locking washer , the first one is a spacer/thrust washer. you will need to replace both , they are not the same , the thrust washer is way thicker.
buy both from a stealership if you can , they are much much better quality than crapocks.

i done mine a few weeks ago and i had to grind the bearing ring off , it was the outer one that shattered though.
you should be able to get a grinder on it with a cutting disc if you remove the hub , don't go all the way through , just leave a mil or so then hammer and chisel the rest of it off.
dremmells , drills etc wont even scratch the surface , its hardened steel.

Griffdowg said:

the splined bit (not sure if its the stub or half shaft) floats in and out by 3mm and also moves around a bit. is this normal?

Click to expand...

Wot Grunt sed... if you mean it floats by 3mm when it's got the hub nuts on and tight then no - it's way out, should be fractions of a mm - Haynes has got the right measurements. If it's floating by 3mm or more when the driving member and hub nuts are off ... then that's normal.

Cheers,

yer i meant when the hub assembly is off. so its just the stub axle and halfshaft still on.

i still dont understand how the ineer hub bearing would cause my 90 to swerve so badly. i honestly thought i had a blow out! when i wibbled the wheel it only wobbled a inch or so. from the diff in steering i thought the wheel would have come off!

anyhow, im going to have a crack with a dremel now and if i cant do it by the time its dark i will order a new stub axle off crap-docks later.

cheers for all your help/experience guys, really appreciate it

G

its the big nut that keeps it all in line . if yer hub nut comes undone then the hub and therefore the wheel can move about causing you to swerve about.
as you're rebuilding it, before you tighten the nut fully give yer wheel a wiggle and you'll see how much it can move if yer bearings have collasped.

how think about how that will affect the steering!