how to service 300tdi defender

havent serviced the beast since ive owned her, so i think she deserves it.
havent serviced a vehicle before, but would like to do it myself, so i can save a bit of dosh.
just how do i go about doing it, and what are the rough costs for the parts etc.

cheers

flash

grab a haynes manual.

in all fairness, the servicing guides for general servicing in them are pretty good - the diesel defender manual is pretty comprehensive, it gives all the milage intervals etc too.

Aint that expensive on ebay.

Oh yeah, find a friendly motor factors for your bits, not halfords.

i agree. certainly not hal-frauds. If you dont have a local indi, get your filter kits and parts online, these offer best prices. You may find, if you dont already have some tools that your 1st service wont save you much because you will be buying everything, but it is an investment so as long as you plan on doing future ones, it shouldnt be a problem.

G

and PLEASE DONT, whatever you do, be afraid of trying. Land Rovers are probably the most forgiving cars to play with, jus give it a go! Theres enough people here to advise you, come help you, etc, or even, theres enough people here with enough spare bits that if you do accidentally break something, theres probably one kicking around somewhere.

Oh yeah, and buy decent tools. Cheap ones are a total and complete waste of money.

I work at halfords btw, so i get the trade stuff there - for some things its ace, but others its still expensive. Find a motor factors, use ebay, paddocks are good for service items but never EVER buy Britpart spares - they are rubbish. Use good quality filters like coopers, fram etc, and for your engine you want the cheapest mineral oil you can buy, 15W40 if i remember right, and change it often.

Don't bother with fancy oil, you will actually make your engine suffer. Taking the castrol magnatec that was in my 300 out and putting comma cheap and cheerful in made a huge difference to the engine.

Oh, and dnt be scared to ask!

Some bits to help you get started

haynes manual land rover 90, 110 & defender, 1983-1995 on eBay, also Land Rover Workshop Manuals, Land Rover, Car Manuals Literature, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Nov-08 00:25:55 GMT)

Land Rover 90 110 Defender Diesel 83-07 HAYNES MANUAL on eBay, also, Other Manuals Literature, Car Manuals Literature, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 16-Dec-08 11:58:05 GMT)

ERR3340 Oil Filter - Coopers - 300TDI

AEU2147L Fuel Filter - 300TDI

ESR2623G Air Filter - Genuine - 300TDI

Oh and change your gearbox (both) and diff oils, and grease your UJ's (all in haynes!)

how do i go about changing the gearbox and diff oil?
these are the main things i want to do, as well as changing the PAS pump.

Diffs are easy to oil change, all you need is a half inch ratchet.
On the diff casing you will see two half inch square plugs, one on the bottom and one in the middle of the pan lookin straight at you. remove the one lookin at you, then with an oil catchin pan under the diff remove the bottom one and let the oil drain out, replace bottom plug then fill diff back up to level with fresh EP90 OIL.
Transfer box is straight forward too, again there is a half inch plug on the lowest point of the casing which you remove to drain, the filler plug is either a plug like the others or a square post on the back of the box near the handbrake drum, this is also filled to level with EP90.
Not sure about the r380 gearbox drain and fill plugs as i have only ever had lt77 boxes but im sure someone will advise :scratching_chin:
When doin a service i will take the landy for a run to get it up to operatin temp then park it up and drain all the oils while they are nice and warm and runny as cold EP90 is hellish slow to drain

nowt wrong wif halfrauds anna trade discun't card

Make sure you undo the filler caps first as they do not allways come out easy.Best find out before draining out oil.

i agree. I still cannot budge the filler cap on my R380 (its a torx 55 bit by the way) not much room for a ratchet down there either. buy the haynes and all will become clear.

G

Halfrauds is a appalling shop!!!!!!!! never shop there a majority of there items are at least £1.50 over the manufactures RRP.
I once asked for a set of points for my old fiesta and a was asked if such a part even exists because they had never heard of them before!!!!!!!!!!!!! only buy from them if your landy sits on 24in chrome rims and is often found in Safeway's car park late at night

I work there, depends on the staff in the store.

They are useful where i work, but they are expensive. The trade card is only good for some things.

here's the oils you need

LubeMatch - United Kingdom

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829

depends on your preference

Shell is the better oil

hope this helps mate

ps be sure to read the footnotes

boydy1989 said:

I work there, depends on the staff in the store.

They are useful where i work, but they are expensive. The trade card is only good for some things.

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Batteries are the only thing that I've found you get a good discount on. Even then they're still overpriced.

I did me own oil last week and saw me local garage had a special on where theyd do the oil n filter for £40.Think ive saved even with buying the tools to do it and next time i do it i will save even more cos i got em now!

the gearbox has a big drain plug about 32mm i think and the top up on the side your need a torx bit not sure what size

defender300td1 said:

the gearbox has a big drain plug about 32mm i think and the top up on the side your need a torx bit not sure what size

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As Griffdowg said it's a tx55 for the filler and the 32mm hex for the drain

ATF oil in it

if it comes out really ****ty try and clean the filter inside, you cant get it out but you can just about get your finger on it through the drain hole

best to use brake cleaner aerosol with a powerful blast to rinse the crap off it and then let the cleaner evaporate completely

If it comes out fairly clean and you cant feel any crap on the filter don't bother

ratty said:

Batteries are the only thing that I've found you get a good discount on. Even then they're still overpriced.

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light bulbs are ok, as is stuff like radweld.

Even with the discount batteries are expensive!

I think mtf94 is the spec. not Atf...

G

Griffdowg said:

I think mtf94 is the spec. not Atf...

G

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MTF94 is only for 1998 onwards

R380 94 - 98 is ATF

P

Everywhere i have read specs Mtf94 in R380 boxes. I think this superseeded ATF. the R380 box didnt change from 300s to Td5s did it?

G