How to - replace a 200 TDi Defender front Shock Absorber.

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Wish I had seen this about 4 weeks ago when I did mine.
Just a couple of things to add from my experience...
I was lucky - after much application of the wire brush and WD40 none of the bolts sheared so I did not need to replace the turret ring thingy.
Because of this I did not need to jack up my landie (or remove the wheels). The nuts on the old shocks would not undo so I drilled a couple of holes in one face of each nut. One hammer and chisel bashing later - the nuts were much more easily removed. Also I tightened the new nut with a ratchet ring spanner (BIG MISTAKE) as the threaded part of the shock came throught the nyloc nut it almost touched the axle casing. And as if by magic there was no longer the gap needed to withdraw the ring spanner. Because of the rachet nature of the spanner I could not use it to loosen the nut. Luckly there was just enough room to insert a second ordinary spanner to loosen the nut and withdraw the ring spanner..
 
Pretty excellent photo=sequence and procedure. Have two additional recommendations:
Use a set of coil spring compressors. After removing the tyre, jack under the axle and set the coil spring compressors to hold the springs. After removing the shock tower and lowering the axle the spring will come out fairly easily. You can reinstall the springs safely with a half twist and without pry bar and mashed fingers.

Have a torch ready to apply heat those rusted locknuts on the ends of the shocks!
 
Pretty excellent photo=sequence and procedure. Have two additional recommendations:
Use a set of coil spring compressors. After removing the tyre, jack under the axle and set the coil spring compressors to hold the springs. After removing the shock tower and lowering the axle the spring will come out fairly easily. You can reinstall the springs safely with a half twist and without pry bar and mashed fingers.

Have a torch ready to apply heat those rusted locknuts on the ends of the shocks!

Or just jack the vehicle up and put axle stands under the chassis rails. The axle will drop under it own weight and the springs can be removed without the need for a spring compressor.
 
.....One or more of the turret-ring studs will shear off, so buy new turret-rings before you start (about 4 quid each).

"and studs will be broken. Not less than one will be the number of the breakage, and no more than seven wilst thou see unbroken.."

Nostreweydamus 1564

Uncanny. Can I have your lottery numbers? Great thread, worked a treat.
 
"and studs will be broken. Not less than one will be the number of the breakage, and no more than seven wilst thou see unbroken.."

Nostreweydamus 1564

Uncanny. Can I have your lottery numbers? Great thread, worked a treat.

Oi! I may be old, but I aint that old! (Yer must be confoosin me wiv Daft).
And I don't do the lottery.

Glad you found it useful.
 
PS. I ended up replacing the turrets as well. The top of one looked like it had been under the sea for the last 15 years. Another LR bright idea: make the top of the turret like a cup to hold the water (salty in winter) and put it in the wheel arch open to the elements but where you can't see it.
 
dont supose anyone would be kind enuff to post em :D also just outta interest wot happns if they r over tightened??
 
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Just a question, can you undo the top bolt holding the shock to the turret before removing it from the vehicle?

I don't have a vice you see, so just wondering for when I get around to buying some shocks for the Disco
 
Many thanks for a superb bit of help

One thing I did discover (just in time) was there is a brake line fastened to the back of the turret- Might be an 110 MOD thing?

My springs also had no intention on coming out without compressors

I decided to renew the turrets so it was a simple drop in job

Took 3 hours - not bad for me !!

Next job - panhard & trailing arm bushes
 
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