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why not just use the centre nut? dont make things more complicated than it needs to be.............. K.I.S.S 
How to recondition a VCU yourself.
- Thread starter Alibro
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Nodge68
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why not just use the centre nut? dont make things more complicated than it needs to be.............. K.I.S.S
The hub nut is the safest way to conduct them OWUT. However not everyone has access to a 32mm socket.
Everyone will have a wheel nut spanner.
Providing that only 5 KG is used and the total lever length is 1.2M from the centre of the hub, then the wheel stud won't break.
Yep, everything you have all said is all highly relevant, so I took it all on-board and did the test again.
I didn't have a socket to fit the wheel-nut, so securly strapped a piece of wood across the wheels width.
With the 1.2 Metre pipe fastened to the wood, ensuring the length was perfect for the test from centre of the hub, I redid the test.
Now here's the interesting part. The previous test I did, using a wheel-nut, the initial test time was well over a minute. Then as I did test after test, the time dropped substantially.
I put that result down to it being my first ever experience of this test, trying to refine my methodoligy as I progressed. And, of course, the test time dropped.
Yesterday, was something similar. The intial time was quite high, just over a minute, and this was using the centre of the hub.
The new Hub-centred test results showed a difference in times, but not by too much.
The first tests using a wheelnut as an anchor averaged at 35 seconds.
The second set of tests from the hub-nut averaged at 42 seconds. And once again, I did many.
My impression is... the VCU was intially stiff, if perhaps semi-seized, but by excercising it during the tests the stiffness seemed to have eased off.
I took the car out today, and did my usual kind of driving stint... shopping at Lidls & Compsem Supermarkets, so nothing unusual in that behaviour.
What I did notice was... the rubbing-sound and slowing-restriction, while turning in a tight circle, had been reduced - although still there.
My deduction is that:- by carrying out the test, many times, I have altered the VCU's stiffness by the fact it has been excercised.
Which brings me onto asking a question. And if this question has prviously been asked with an appropriate answer given, please forgive me.
The question is... if I were to release some of the liquid from the VCU, not too much, would this help ease the stiffness and would it be safe to run with a lesser amount until I am able to do a complete refurbishment?
Oh, and as for Top Hat Man's comment regarding Spanish MOT's, you are absolutely correct. The Spanish have some funny ideas when it comes to motoring and what you say is right. I cannot adapt/modify it to run as a 2WD vehicle. Here's another example. I bought my car in Germany, with a towing-arm already fitted. Spain wouldn't accept it as it was not on the vehicle when it was delivered from Land Rover. It had to be completely removed with a Spanish one fitted, by an authorised fitter, complete with official paperwork & Serial Number. The towing arm is Officially registered to my car (printed on the Car's Documention & saved on a Database - all very costly) and it cannot be reused on any other (Spanish) car. There is now a mountain of used towing arms in Spain and they are only worth scrap value. No one else can fit them to a Spanish car.
I didn't have a socket to fit the wheel-nut, so securly strapped a piece of wood across the wheels width.
With the 1.2 Metre pipe fastened to the wood, ensuring the length was perfect for the test from centre of the hub, I redid the test.
Now here's the interesting part. The previous test I did, using a wheel-nut, the initial test time was well over a minute. Then as I did test after test, the time dropped substantially.
I put that result down to it being my first ever experience of this test, trying to refine my methodoligy as I progressed. And, of course, the test time dropped.
Yesterday, was something similar. The intial time was quite high, just over a minute, and this was using the centre of the hub.
The new Hub-centred test results showed a difference in times, but not by too much.
The first tests using a wheelnut as an anchor averaged at 35 seconds.
The second set of tests from the hub-nut averaged at 42 seconds. And once again, I did many.
My impression is... the VCU was intially stiff, if perhaps semi-seized, but by excercising it during the tests the stiffness seemed to have eased off.
I took the car out today, and did my usual kind of driving stint... shopping at Lidls & Compsem Supermarkets, so nothing unusual in that behaviour.
What I did notice was... the rubbing-sound and slowing-restriction, while turning in a tight circle, had been reduced - although still there.
My deduction is that:- by carrying out the test, many times, I have altered the VCU's stiffness by the fact it has been excercised.
Which brings me onto asking a question. And if this question has prviously been asked with an appropriate answer given, please forgive me.
The question is... if I were to release some of the liquid from the VCU, not too much, would this help ease the stiffness and would it be safe to run with a lesser amount until I am able to do a complete refurbishment?
Oh, and as for Top Hat Man's comment regarding Spanish MOT's, you are absolutely correct. The Spanish have some funny ideas when it comes to motoring and what you say is right. I cannot adapt/modify it to run as a 2WD vehicle. Here's another example. I bought my car in Germany, with a towing-arm already fitted. Spain wouldn't accept it as it was not on the vehicle when it was delivered from Land Rover. It had to be completely removed with a Spanish one fitted, by an authorised fitter, complete with official paperwork & Serial Number. The towing arm is Officially registered to my car (printed on the Car's Documention & saved on a Database - all very costly) and it cannot be reused on any other (Spanish) car. There is now a mountain of used towing arms in Spain and they are only worth scrap value. No one else can fit them to a Spanish car.
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it may well be that you have to "use" a VCU to keep it in tip top condition..... try it on wet grass to force it to work. See if that makes any difference?
stick the old tow arms on ebay
stick the old tow arms on ebay
andyfreelandy
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What I can tell you is that 'working' the VCu does provide a loosening effect. Having taken the old fluid out of one and left it standing in a tray for a few weeks it is pretty solid now. It is a bit like 'blue tac' - if you work it and pull it about it gets softer (opposite to some other things )..................
But reducing the amount is unlikely to affect stiffness - it may provide more room for the stuff to move though.
)..................But reducing the amount is unlikely to affect stiffness - it may provide more room for the stuff to move though.
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that might help in removing the old fluid - rotating one end relative to the other.What I can tell you is that 'working' the VCu does provide a loosening effect. Having taken the old fluid out of one and left it standing in a tray for a few weeks it is pretty solid now. It is a bit like 'blue tac' - if you work it and pull it about it gets softer (opposite to some other things
But reducing the amount is unlikely to affect stiffness - it may provide more room for the stuff to move though.
andyfreelandy
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It does. Also - white spirit is not a solvent to silicone, it may thin it a bit but it doesn't dissolve it. I used brake / clutch cleaner which is a hydro carbon and turned the thick goo into thin(ner) goo.......
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GrumpyGel
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That does tie in with the torque test curves performed on couplings - ie as it slips it gets less viscous. If you were to stir it in a air tight box with a small air gap - you'd notice it getting softer until you stirred it more quickly to a point when all of a sudden you'll hit "hump" mode!
This presumably also explains why 1WUT timings get quicker. The one on my parts car took over 3 minutes to start with but repeated tests leveled out at about 2 minutes. On my car, to start with the bar wouldn't move, but after repeated tests, it still didn't move
jonaf
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Working a stiff VCU may loosen it up a little. More efficient is heat. Put the unit in hot water and the stale silicone will come out a little easier afterwards.What I can tell you is that 'working' the VCu does provide a loosening effect. Having taken the old fluid out of one and left it standing in a tray for a few weeks it is pretty solid now. It is a bit like 'blue tac' - if you work it and pull it about it gets softer (opposite to some other things
But reducing the amount is unlikely to affect stiffness - it may provide more room for the stuff to move though.
Okay, guys, the shafts & VCU are off. I've driven it and it handles extremely well. I can tell the back-end is lighter but doesn't seem to cause any problems with handling or cornering.
I'm now looking to carry out the VCU repair. The bearings, by the way, are perfect with no play or suspect noises. I may not replace them, but then again...
The rear-diff pinion oil-seal with be renewed as I progress. I'll need to get a 28mm socket for that job.
I also informed my Insurance Broker of my temporary 2 WD, explaining why. They say it's okay and wished me luck with the repair. I'm covered.
I'll give an update to all of this as things happen.
I'm off to have a shower with Swarfega... I think that's her name. lol
I'm now looking to carry out the VCU repair. The bearings, by the way, are perfect with no play or suspect noises. I may not replace them, but then again...
The rear-diff pinion oil-seal with be renewed as I progress. I'll need to get a 28mm socket for that job.
I also informed my Insurance Broker of my temporary 2 WD, explaining why. They say it's okay and wished me luck with the repair. I'm covered.
I'll give an update to all of this as things happen.
I'm off to have a shower with Swarfega... I think that's her name. lol
GrumpyGel
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The bearings may be good - but you've got to get them (or at least 1 of them) off to drill the VCU straight - that may render it u.s. I think mine managed to survive the trauma, but the dust shields definitely didn't - I don't know yet if they can be purchased separately. Nodge did put up the spec for the just the bearing component of the support - for if the rubber is all OK, but the bearing is shot. Not sure which thread its on.
Nodge68
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jonaf
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A bearing puller with puller plates is the best tool to use to pull the bearings without damaging them. The roller bearings should be pressed out and refitted in the rubber carrier with a hydraulic press to do it in a controlled manner. A large vise may also work.
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I've ordered two new complete bearings so I can get to play with my hammer again. I do have a puller, which I will try first, of course. But I do like my hammer. Maybe I should have called myself, 'Thor'. lol
Thanks to all for the great info.
Thanks to all for the great info.
That's a really great picture of the bearing, very helpful... but also the background. I'm guessing that's manmade concrete, with a hell of a LOT of quartz in it. Very interesting - geologically speaking.
Nodge68
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Glad you like the concrete
I wasn't responsible for laying it however. I would think it was laid in 1889 when my house was built. All the old local concrete contains large chunks of quarts mixed with feldspar. Yes geologically our local raw building materials are quite interesting. There's lots of large granite blocks used in the local buildings too.
andyfreelandy
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So - my refurb VCU is now fitted with new GKN bearings and all seems to be working well.
One Wheel Up Test with 1m and 5kg gives 18 seconds at the wheel.
Drives and tight turn reverses as it should.
Will be looking for a muddy field to test 4x4 action.
One Wheel Up Test with 1m and 5kg gives 18 seconds at the wheel.
Drives and tight turn reverses as it should.
Will be looking for a muddy field to test 4x4 action.
Alibro
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Nice one Andy, sounds about perfect. I have another one to do soon and plan to use your methods. Any links to where you got the bolts and pipe adapter thingys?
Edit.
Oh and what size drill bit and tap?
andyfreelandy
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For my next one I am going to use these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-Hoset...cd5e3cc&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=132121704654
and a 12.5mm drill then use M14 sump plugs. This means my bench drill will accept the 12.5mm and I won't need to use a large (over large) reduced shank drill which was too long and provided me with problems getting the VCU in under it !!!
Use brake and clutch cleaner hydrocarbon solvent - it eats the fluid for breakfast.
Maybe a business opportunity here - will be testing the one I have done every month and recording the figures whilst it 'beds in'.
Good luck !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-Hoset...cd5e3cc&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=132121704654
and a 12.5mm drill then use M14 sump plugs. This means my bench drill will accept the 12.5mm and I won't need to use a large (over large) reduced shank drill which was too long and provided me with problems getting the VCU in under it !!!
Use brake and clutch cleaner hydrocarbon solvent - it eats the fluid for breakfast.
Maybe a business opportunity here - will be testing the one I have done every month and recording the figures whilst it 'beds in'.
Good luck !
