How to recondition a VCU yourself.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Andy_J said:
It was 5kg at 1.2m, was 126k miles. VCU was on an L series. Tyres were all identical and pretty much same tread depth. Was on a vehicle I bought at auction for £300 so expected something knackered. Tested the VCU once I had replaced the IRD

Can just about turn the VCU with a 4' bar on it so should be able to get the old goo out of it. Going to leave it to drain for a couple of days before I put white spirit into it
Click to expand...
Something must have been wrong in the past, either miss-matched tyres or the car was driven for a long time with a soft tyre. My TD4 has 149k miles on it and the VCU wasn't too bad.
Goes to show how a VCU can be completely stuffed long before it should be.
Good luck with it though as sounds like a nice project, a lot of folk here swear by the L series.
 
Last edited:
It's comical that the seller doesn't mention what tools or skills the prospective buyer would need to recondition a VCU.
It's much less expensive to come here and read how it's done, for free.
Thanks to Alibro for talking the time to write it up.;)
 
Has anyone drilled the VCU and threaded it whilst still on the vehicle? Is it possible to get a drill in straight? It is just that by then using a flush (turps etc) and driving the car, the work of cleaning would be done after a number of cycles and no need for all the work of removing prop. Just a thought o_O
 
andyfreelandy said:
Has anyone drilled the VCU and threaded it whilst still on the vehicle? Is it possible to get a drill in straight? It is just that by then using a flush (turps etc) and driving the car, the work of cleaning would be done after a number of cycles and no need for all the work of removing prop. Just a thought o_O
Click to expand...

It would be possible. However for accuracy it would be best to use a pillar drill if available. If not then anything is possible. You can get to the VCU straight from both ends. However the damper would need unbolting to get to one side.
 
andyfreelandy said:
What does us all think of this??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252707236943?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Perhaps we should donate £99.99 to a charity each time we read this thread?!?!?!
Click to expand...
OMG!!!!!! I'M A FOOL!
I could have been making £££££'s by selling this info and like a complete idiot I gave it away for free!!!!!
Wonder would anyone notice if I removed all the info and instead posted links to an E book for sale in ebay? Mmmmmmmmmm
Would have to have a rock solid legally binding clause like this in it tho.

Quote taken from the ebay ad.
"Please be aware that this eBook is covered be copyright law. It is not to be copied, forwarded or emailed to anybody else. It is for use of the person that purchased it and is not for any other third party. It cannot be sold or resold on any website or online platform (eg. eBay Amazon, etc), by anyone else but us. We will take all relevant steps to prosecute anyone who attempts to go against this."

Oh crap! I just realised this guy has copyrighted the procedure and I've told everyone how to do it. Do you think I need to worry about him suing me? I'm really worried now!!! :(



LOL. :p:D:p:D
 
andyfreelandy said:
Has anyone drilled the VCU and threaded it whilst still on the vehicle? Is it possible to get a drill in straight? It is just that by then using a flush (turps etc) and driving the car, the work of cleaning would be done after a number of cycles and no need for all the work of removing prop. Just a thought o_O
Click to expand...
If you could drill both ends (not sure if possible while on the car) and you could force in the turps (or whatever) under pressure so it pushed the gunge out the other hole then maybe. Otherwise I don't think so, doing it on the bench it takes a lot of time for the stuff to settle, the one's I've done I drilled both holes in one end, then allowed gravity (plus turning to mix it) to get the white spirit in then the same for getting new fluid in.
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
If you could drill both ends (not sure if possible while on the car) and you could force in the turps (or whatever) under pressure so it pushed the gunge out the other hole then maybe. Otherwise I don't think so, doing it on the bench it takes a lot of time for the stuff to settle, the one's I've done I drilled both holes in one end, then allowed gravity (plus turning to mix it) to get the white spirit in then the same for getting new fluid in.
Click to expand...

Drilling the case each end, on opposing sides, while fitted might allow the gunk to spin out, as the car moves along the road. I have thought about spinning the VCU on a rig in the past. A tube of card wrapped round the VCU could catch the ejected gunk. Just one of many thoughts I've had one the VCU recon subject.
 
Unless your VCU support bearings are new or in perfect condition there isn't much point in trying to drill it on the car. And speaking of which you'd struggle to drill the hole straight with the bearings in the way. If you don't drill the holes at right angles to the VCU you'll struggle to seal it with a bolt or especially with a grease nipple as they are pretty shallow.
 
So here's a thing. Carefully extracted all the silicon from my tight VCU and measured it accurately. Used a solvent that has completely evaporated to wash it out. Measures 160ml.

BUT - when I fill it with solvent, for the final rinse I can only get 120ml in ! Wondering if the original was put in under pressure, hence the flow out when drilled.

Also - this suggests that the whole VCU (every space in the complexity of the discs) is filled with fluid - Alibro mentioned putting in 150ml or a bit more. Could we have different size VCU's out there. Mine is a 1.8 & TD4 type not a V6 type.

But I'm cleaned out ready to fill and cap off. Interesting that without the gel in it is not resistant to turn but makes a scratchy noise as the discs are able to rub together. Guess this stresses the importance of every gap being filled to prevent disc wear??

Will be bench testing then car testing final rebuild and noting all figures. Will also count wheel turns to prop turns ration with one wheel up to confirm the conversion factor for timings on and off the car.

Will then refurb the one that came off the car (I bought a spare to work on).

Will post photos, but used 2 flush fit sump plugs and so changing fluid is easier in another 50 - 70k miles !

Does anyone know the amount (on the circumference) that the VCU 'slips' per wheel turn in a straight line? Then we can work out the number of revolutions in a VCU 'life' !

Think I'm getting into this a bit too much - white coat used to keep clean is obs getting to me :)
 
If you are only getting 120ml in. I'd think you have air spaces still to fill.
You took out 160ml, so you should put back 160ml.
Nothing wrong with getting out the white coat. Any information on the VCU is helpful;)
 
I know you say the solvent has evaporated off, but would it not mix with the VCU's contents (degraded PDMS, iron particles etc) to form other substances that would not evaporate off and be left with, and bulking up, the content mixture.
 
+1 wot they say. You can defo get 150mls (ish) in a VCU and they're all the same so there must have been an air pocket. Did you rotate it after pouring in the solvent to get it down in between the plates?
 
I was thinking as well that solvent would be trapped within the gunk coming out like bubbles - even small microscopic ones - all this will bulk up what comes out.

I've no doubt you've probably got most of the old 'fluid' out, and there may very well be air bubbles/locks in there - but I doubt drilling & flushing will remove 100% of the contents. I'm sure there will be some left in there. Hopefully it will mix with the new fluid over time so that the VCU works "evenly". It will mean though that you won't need quite as much fluid as the "chopping the end off" recon method.

I'm looking to "drill & flush", but I'm also looking at an "unscrew & flush" (maybe) 6 months later to give it another fluid change.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I was thinking as well that solvent would be trapped within the gunk coming out like bubbles - even small microscopic ones - all this will bulk up what comes out.

I've no doubt you've probably got most of the old 'fluid' out, and there may very well be air bubbles/locks in there - but I doubt drilling & flushing will remove 100% of the contents. I'm sure there will be some left in there. Hopefully it will mix with the new fluid over time so that the VCU works "evenly". It will mean though that you won't need quite as much fluid as the "chopping the end off" recon method.

I'm looking to "drill & flush", but I'm also looking at an "unscrew & flush" (maybe) 6 months later to give it another fluid change.
Click to expand...

There is no doubt in my mind, If your welding is up to scratch then cutting the end off is the best way to do it, but if it's like mine then probably best drill and flush. I'm not sure it matters enough to re-flush again so soon after though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MollyNomad
Freelander 1 VCU Test
Replies
4
Views
885
MollyNomad
MollyNomad
MollyNomad
Freelander 1 Hahaha… Not very funny
Replies
3
Views
552
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
W
Steering
Replies
6
Views
544
Nodge68
Nodge68
Arctic2
Freelander 2 (LR2) New Reservoir
Replies
1
Views
749
tony.g
T
M
Propshaft refitting
Replies
4
Views
408
MGT
M
Back
Top