How to prevent and repair K series Engine Failure

Can I have that bag after you MHM, got meself worked up elswhere

Mark2 said:

Can I have that bag after you MHM, got meself worked up elswhere

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yu can have my colostomy bag if yu want - i dont need it any more - peeps feeding me whole pints!

yu mite like to read this too - admittedly he is an arsehole, but does make a couple of good suggestions .

or read my "how to post" link in my sig:doh:!

.... and his spelling's a bit suspeck :doh:

arternoon Ratty - i think some mite have escaped this arvo

ratty said:

It's probably best to mention that there are 2 possible types of repair for HG failure on the K series.

Assuming that people are paying for a garage to do it rather than DIY it, there are £500-600 repairs and £1500 repairs. The cheaper one takes into account the replacement Hg only. The more expensive repair also includes replacing the cylinder liners.

Landrover themselves will not put a warranty on the work unless the liners are replaced too.

If you are looking for a 1.8 k series freelander and come across one where the liners have been replaced too, the chances are it will last much longer than a similar vehicle which has had purely the gasket changed.

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It doesn't mention replacing liners in the technical bulletins, I think you mean the oil rail and bolts.

Which I never bothered with, I was certainly one of the 1st DIY' fixes on the MLS gasket, still going strong as a daily runner 2 1/2 yrs later

So are they rubbish or can they be fixed if you do it properly?

redrenger89 said:

So are they rubbish or can they be fixed if you do it properly?

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How long is a piece of string? Yes they are poorly designed - if you consider that rubbish.
can they be fixed - yes, however it has still been known of peeps who have changed the gasket for the new MLS one and replaced the oil rail to still have HGF after - but not everybody.
its like playing with a loaded gun - you may not shoot yourself - but the best answer seems to be give the gun to somebody else, or not pick it up in the first place.

I bought a TD4, but if i'd have got a K1.8 the first thing I would do is to fit a coolant level sensor.

It won't address the root cause of the problem, but it will tell you to stop before the engine goes bang. The K engine can't handle much coolant loss, so if it goes much below emptying the coolant tank then it's game over.

There's a level sensor available that was fitted on later K1.8's. It goes in the hose from the coolant tank so it warns once the tank has emptied which should be in time to stop an engine failure as long as it's not a sudden major leak such as a hose blow off.

My dad had a K1.8 for a year and loved it. He thought it was great for towing his caravan as well, which surpised me.

Good luck !

Kungfu0210 said:

I bought a TD4, but if i'd have got a K1.8 the first thing I would do is to fit a coolant level sensor.

It won't address the root cause of the problem, but it will tell you to stop before the engine goes bang. The K engine can't handle much coolant loss, so if it goes much below emptying the coolant tank then it's game over.

There's a level sensor available that was fitted on later K1.8's. It goes in the hose from the coolant tank so it warns once the tank has emptied which should be in time to stop an engine failure as long as it's not a sudden major leak such as a hose blow off.

My dad had a K1.8 for a year and loved it. He thought it was great for towing his caravan as well, which surpised me.

Good luck !

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If my memory serves me correctly, the coolant level sensor was fitted into a noo tank and was part of the expansion tank. Although this will, of course, reduce those incidents of coolant loss induced HGF, it will do nothing for the primary cause, which is caused by cavitation within the head, because of poor design. It is also common to have HGF occur with no indication of an increase in water temperature, mainly because the temp sensor is in the return from the radiator - not in the engine outlet side. In my opinion, another brilliant idea from the 8 year drunken apprentice that designed this vehicle.

Nah it's definitely a remote colant level sensor and not part of the main coolant tank. It's a small black plastic unit with a float insde it and a level sensor clipped into the bottom. Part number PCF500060, see link here...

PCF500060 EXPANSION TANK AND SENSOR UNIT | Freelander 1996>: Engine: Cooling | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

It's retro-fittable without changing the main coolant tank. Just need to cut / shut the hose from the tank and put the remote level sensor in place.

Would obviously also have to wire in the sensor, one suggestion would be to use it to ground the existing temp sensor circuit, hence driving the needle into the red if you lose coolant. Or add a seperate lamp / buzzer of your own.

Again, it doesn't address the root cause, only provides warning before your engine does. Piece of mind for less than 20 quid, I'd fit one if I had a K1.8

As you say - it should be a mandatory retrofit.

Old school thread bumped covering these issues.

CJJ on MG-Rover.org is fitting a turbo 1.8, machining furrows around the outside of cylinder 1 is another mod, giving a better flow.

The old knowledge base is improving thanks to the forum

On the 1.8 I will fit the remote sensor thermostat kit and the coolant level sensor kit

I will post pictures when I have all the parts

if yu can justify the extra - fit an EWP as well.

it is a better fix though if the engine hasn't been abused prior to hgf, if they have been run without coolant and cooked they will not last when repaired, but there is always the rover way to fix it, drain the coolant, run the engine to temp, and then tighten those headbolts whilst it is hot, let it cool, refill and stick it in car auction.

Good point Freelance

This is a project car for me as well as a fun car for my wife so I have the time to sort it out properly.

I cant be certain of course but there are no apparent signs of this one actually over heating. Just coolant loss ending up in the oil. As soon as that was discovered we stopped running her as coolant and oil cant be a good mix for the rest of the engine .


TMHM..Another good point.
Looking in to EWP but have not found much information about the mod. Found your thread relating to the pump but no pictures or instructions of the actual mod and what you do about the original pump etc. Any clues?

Thanks for your help

Thank you everyone who has helped me

and for the links to the coolant sensor unit that must be the best way to go.



Thread closed

no it aint. - the EWP can be used in primary or secondary mode.
In primary mode, yu remove the normal water pump (usually just the impeller) and rely on just the EWP, which is more than good enough.
In Secondary mode, it supplements the normal water pump to supply additional flow and a continued flow after the engine has switched off.

See Electric Water Pumps (EWP)
and
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Images/EWP80 INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Add a good dose of water wetter to your coolant. It's not going to make up for bad design but it will make your coolant a little more effective.