clivep
New Member
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- TW12 West London
This is how I changed my FPR yesterday on my 2000 Td5 Auto RHD Disco 2. It wasn't too difficult just fiddly.
I bought a genuine regulator (LR016319) and gasket from M J Fews which cost £144 including postage via eBay
Asking around, I learnt several things. Main Dealers only change the whole thing, they generally don't bother to change the filter or small O ring and it can all be done from on top of the vehicle.
I used a 10mm 3/8 socket, short and long extensions together, ratchet handle, 10mm open ended spanner, small flat blade screwdriver, paper towel, a small plastic bag, head torch, some Blu Tack and a beer crate to stand on.
1. Remove acoustic cover and wipe round regulator area
2. Remove electrical sensor plug; as the clip had to be pushed up from underneath, I pinged it off with the screwdriver and put it back later. You may be able to undo the sensor so the clip is uppermost.
3. Pass 10mm socket and 2 extensions down past steering column and under the metal pipe beneath the inlet manifold, fidget around to get on bottom bolt; you can work out where it is by looking at the new regulator. Add the ratchet handle, remove bolt.
4. Pass 10mm socket and 2 extensions over metal pipe, add ratchet handle and slacken off 1 top bolt, reposition and slacken off the other one.
5. Using small spanner, compress the plastic collar on the fuel cooler pipe to release it and remove.
6. Remove remaining top 2 bolts and lift regulator up noting the orientation of the gasket and making sure not to disturb the O ring behind it. You should then be able to get your hand in to compress the plastic buttons to release the fuel feed pipe.
7. Place small plastic bag over fuel feed pipe and tuck it under the brake servo.
8. Unloop pipe off new regulator, clean mating faces and gasket carefully, insert the top right bolt in the regulator and sit the new gasket on it. Then holding these 3 items together fidget regulator into place again taking care not to disturb the O ring. Pass the 10mm socket and 2 extensions under the inlet manifold without the ratchet and do the bolt up several turns. Align the gasket, insert top left bolt and tighten several turns. Tighten both bolts finger tight
9. Clean the 10mm socket and the bottom bolt. Using Blu Tack, glue it into the socket. Feed extensions, socket and bolt under metal pipe and feel for the hole. Tighten finger tight.
10. Tighten all bolts in sequence firmly and finally give them a good nip (or 18 lbs ft if you have a torque wrench) to ensure that the gasket is compressed.
11. Refit sensor plug and both hoses.
12 Turn on ignition, wait about half a minute for the fuel pump to purge any air. Turn off ignition, wait a few minutes, turn on ignition ensuring pump is quiet and start engine. Idle for 5 minutes then test drive to check for any leaks. If OK, refit acoustic cover.
Job done.
I bought a genuine regulator (LR016319) and gasket from M J Fews which cost £144 including postage via eBay
Asking around, I learnt several things. Main Dealers only change the whole thing, they generally don't bother to change the filter or small O ring and it can all be done from on top of the vehicle.
I used a 10mm 3/8 socket, short and long extensions together, ratchet handle, 10mm open ended spanner, small flat blade screwdriver, paper towel, a small plastic bag, head torch, some Blu Tack and a beer crate to stand on.
1. Remove acoustic cover and wipe round regulator area
2. Remove electrical sensor plug; as the clip had to be pushed up from underneath, I pinged it off with the screwdriver and put it back later. You may be able to undo the sensor so the clip is uppermost.
3. Pass 10mm socket and 2 extensions down past steering column and under the metal pipe beneath the inlet manifold, fidget around to get on bottom bolt; you can work out where it is by looking at the new regulator. Add the ratchet handle, remove bolt.
4. Pass 10mm socket and 2 extensions over metal pipe, add ratchet handle and slacken off 1 top bolt, reposition and slacken off the other one.
5. Using small spanner, compress the plastic collar on the fuel cooler pipe to release it and remove.
6. Remove remaining top 2 bolts and lift regulator up noting the orientation of the gasket and making sure not to disturb the O ring behind it. You should then be able to get your hand in to compress the plastic buttons to release the fuel feed pipe.
7. Place small plastic bag over fuel feed pipe and tuck it under the brake servo.
8. Unloop pipe off new regulator, clean mating faces and gasket carefully, insert the top right bolt in the regulator and sit the new gasket on it. Then holding these 3 items together fidget regulator into place again taking care not to disturb the O ring. Pass the 10mm socket and 2 extensions under the inlet manifold without the ratchet and do the bolt up several turns. Align the gasket, insert top left bolt and tighten several turns. Tighten both bolts finger tight
9. Clean the 10mm socket and the bottom bolt. Using Blu Tack, glue it into the socket. Feed extensions, socket and bolt under metal pipe and feel for the hole. Tighten finger tight.
10. Tighten all bolts in sequence firmly and finally give them a good nip (or 18 lbs ft if you have a torque wrench) to ensure that the gasket is compressed.
11. Refit sensor plug and both hoses.
12 Turn on ignition, wait about half a minute for the fuel pump to purge any air. Turn off ignition, wait a few minutes, turn on ignition ensuring pump is quiet and start engine. Idle for 5 minutes then test drive to check for any leaks. If OK, refit acoustic cover.
Job done.
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