How much amp draw?

Can anyone tell me roughly how many amps my 12000lbs winchmax draws whilst operating?

Also how much amp draw a 200tdi uses on startup?

This is so i can buy the right selenoid/relay's to put in an isolator switch!

scott

Its going to depend how much load you put on it! - If you stall the motor then a huge amount - if your running it freely to wind in the cable then not much at all.

The motor should have a wattage on it somewhere?

The amp draw will vary depending on how many wraps of cable are on the drum as it will effectively alter the gearing of the winch.

We use the metal key ones on our breakdown trucks. I also use one on my landy. I have known em to get burnt out during heavy winching on our trucks but have never burnt the one on my landy out.

TIR HEAVY DUTY BATTERY ISOLATOR KILL SWITCH & METAL KEY on eBay (end time 06-Mar-10 11:00:39 GMT)

If you can find it get one with a right angle key and not a 45 degree key as the link above shows. It won't get in the way as much then.

The winch on the recovery truck that picked my landy up last year was smelling of burning! - Did offer to use mine, but they said it would last!

Cheers for the info guys but its an electrical switch that im wanting to fit.

I have got a switch on the dash which when switched on will effectivley 'switch on' the power to the winch.

Im looking to fit one of these (SW80-390P, Albright single acting solenoid contactor, 12V continuous, sealed to IP66)

but want to know if itl cope with the power?

Also what draws the most power/amps, a winch or the starter when you start the engine? (200tdi)

Again the answer is - it depends on what your doing with the winch.

For example if you trun the engine over with out the glow plugs in (decompressed) a lot less current will be drawn as the starter will not be under much load.

Basily if you have a 12,000 winch, your going to need one that is going to cope with a good 150 amps at least - i'd go for a rating of 200amps to be on the safe side.

The soleniod your looking at seems as if it would be up to the job, but make sure your cables are upto the job (including the terminals - get premade ones!), and that you don't overload the winch as this will cause a huge current draw (if the batteries will take it) and cause you to melt stuff.

Just had a look at the specs for the solenoid you had in mind.

Its rated at 100amps continious

180amps 30% duty cycle

and 800amps peek load.

jamescronin said:

Again the answer is - it depends on what your doing with the winch.

For example if you trun the engine over with out the glow plugs in (decompressed) a lot less current will be drawn as the starter will not be under much load.

Basily if you have a 12,000 winch, your going to need one that is going to cope with a good 150 amps at least - i'd go for a rating of 200amps to be on the safe side.

The soleniod your looking at seems as if it would be up to the job, but make sure your cables are upto the job (including the terminals - get premade ones!), and that you don't overload the winch as this will cause a huge current draw (if the batteries will take it) and cause you to melt stuff.

Click to expand...

I use the winch for when im stuck in mud and posibly to get up the odd incline (Self rescue stuff really)

The cables i have got attched to the winch at the mo are fairly heavy duty, i'd say they were at least 20mm thick!?

jamescronin said:

Just had a look at the specs for the solenoid you had in mind.

Its rated at 100amps continious

180amps 30% duty cycle

and 800amps peek load.

Click to expand...

Cheers mate would you say this would be plenty good enough to power the winch and engine starter draw? (One for each of course)

Surely there's a spec plate on the winch, giving power ratings either in amps drawn or watts. If in watts then you can convert to amps with the approximation that at 12v, 12w=1amp. Not sure it's your model but from Winchmax site 12000lb winch motor is rated at 4.5kw therefore theorectically draws 375amps.

Theres no plate on my winch that i can see

Going on the 375 amp draw does that mean the selonoid im looking at is fine to use? Dont really understand 'constant draw' 'peak draw' in relation to limitations on the setup i am wanting to put in place?

hang on.

the albright solonoid pack is for the winch only. why are you talking about starting the engine and stuff? why do you need 2 solonoids?

if you want a rating for the kill switch, go with what Ratty said.

you could always phone the place you bought the winch from and ask for a spec sheet for your model.

5 seconds on google found this: http://www.milemarker.com/pdf_downloads/sec_specs.pdf

not yours, but a 12k winch none the less. looks like Kernow was spot on.

G

one of these screwed to the dash would do it

MEM exel switch disconnector/isolator. 20A. (250v/415v) on eBay (end time 24-Feb-10 11:59:05 GMT)

Sean said:

one of these screwed to the dash would do it

MEM exel switch disconnector/isolator. 20A. (250v/415v) on eBay (end time 24-Feb-10 11:59:05 GMT)

Click to expand...

Bloody ell Sean I know LR's are utilitarian but that's positively industrial

glasgow mem nice, dormer if you want tank spec

scott02464 said:

Theres no plate on my winch that i can see

Dont really understand 'constant draw' 'peak draw' in relation to limitations on the setup i am wanting to put in place?

Click to expand...

Simple peek is pressing the button for an instant (i.e. the surge)

Constant is holding the switch in constantly for ever

30% duty cycle is holding it in for 30% of the time etc.

Basicly the bigger the better.

I guess if your going with Seans example you could go one better and get a 40,000V Arc trip like the national grid use - may have some issues fitting it in the back mind you!

Oh and typing winchmax into google yeald this: - Maybe this would have saved the thread? and my hard work?

http://www.winchmax.co.uk/winchmax-specification.html

Pull, Speed, Amperes, Volts (First Layer)


Line Pull (lbs./ kg)
Line Speed FPM(m/min)
Motor (Amps)


0
22.0ft (6.8m)
80

4000 (1814)
11.5ft (3.5m)
170

6000 (2722)
9.8ft (3.0m)
210

8000 (3629)
8.2ft (2.5m)
250

10000 (4536)
6.8ft (2.1m)
300

12000 (5443)
5.6ft (1.7m)
360

scott02464 said:

Cheers for the info guys but its an electrical switch that im wanting to fit.

I have got a switch on the dash which when switched on will effectivley 'switch on' the power to the winch.

Im looking to fit one of these (SW80-390P, Albright single acting solenoid contactor, 12V continuous, sealed to IP66)

but want to know if itl cope with the power?

Also what draws the most power/amps, a winch or the starter when you start the engine? (200tdi)

Click to expand...

Be very careful using a solenoid to act as isolator. A manual isolator is far less likely to fail and remain live than a solenoid is. I've never seen a manual isolator fail with the result that the system stays live. I've seen loads of solenoids fail and remain live though.

OK, iv proberly confused things a bit asking two questions in one

The first selonoid would act as an isolator for the winch (Connected to a 'smaller switch' on the dash which would switch the selonoid on)

The second selonoid will be the 'main running battery' isolator (Which is connected to a seperate switch on the dash)

The thing is i dont want to have a great big manual isolator switch screwed down somewhere.

Yes iv done all these searches you keep throwing at me (Winch stats) However not being an electrictian or someone who knows i dont know what all the ****e means......

Ratty when you say the selonoids fail and stay live, would the be as though 'the wire doesnt have a break in it' and act as though theres no switch in place or would it overheat............?

That's correct. If you imagine winching in with your landy. You're getting close to a tree and you want to stop winching. You let go of the button but the winch keeps going. This is what happens when a solenoid fails and stays live.

I have seen vehicles with no isolators and those with solenoids as isolators do this. I have never seen a good quality isolator switch fail in the live position. I've seen them fail to work. But never stick live. Keep away from the plastic key type isolators. They are fine to cut an engine but no good for handling the loads associated with winching.

If you mount it inside the battery box in your landy, you can position it so that it is close to the gearbox tunnel and you will only have the lever protruding into the cab. As you would only put the lever in when you are actually going to use the winch, it wouldn't get in the way. It is easily reachable by both front passenger and driver too.