How do I get better Light??

Hi folks,

Im in the process of building my 90 back together again, and the old lights are knackered.

I had been looking at the Trucklite led headlamps, and they make great boasts about improved lighting etc, but has anyone tried them? theyre expensive, but I wondered if they were worth every penny.

Would they be better than a std halogen lamp with a stronger bulb perhaps??

Thanks!!

I recently put a set of Trucklites in my 110, I chose them as they look reasonably standard.

A great improvement, I had 100/80w bulbs in and these are three times brighter, coupled with less draw they have stopped issues I had with relays, well that's my excuse for buying them!!!

On main beam they are great, so much so I don't bother using my spotlights. Dip is a compromise, double the brightness of standard but is very focused leaving a dim patch right in front of the car, I've got used to it and it doesn't compromise safety but it was very noticeable at first. The focus and tightness of the light pattern is very similar to the active Xenon's on my Audi, so I'm not blinding other road users but can see the sides of the road clearly even with car's coming towards me.

Value for money? For me yes, not cheap at all but a massive improvement, they make the car safer definitely.
/Users/simonbond/Library/Containers/com.apple.mail/Data/Library/Mail Downloads/2C9290E7-DEEE-401E-AB9B-AB5C00FDDE8A/FullSizeRender.jpg

One day i'll work out how to attache pic's and not thumbnails!!!

i fitted a boomslang loom recently- which is just a direct fused feed from battery and a pair of relays. - while i have not driven on the road with them they are noticably brighter and whiter than the standard wiring - using the same sealed beam cans.

I like the trucklites as they retain a nearly standard look and therefore are less likely to garner unwanted attention.

ps i riveted my light guards in place to slow down any opportunist thieves!

I made my own cable tree thing with relays. The original + is now making the relays. The new + feed comes directly from my alternator.

Looked first and measures 11,7V at my headlights. Running engine ofcourse, so there is a lot of volts away because the 2 switches (normal light switch and the big handle for high beam). Now I have directly volts from the alternator like 14.2V. In combination with clear glas it's a hugh different.

You can also buy these wiring called Swedish light thing. A store called Landreiziger sell them for about 35 pounds.

ArjanVermeer said:

I made my own cable tree thing with relays. The original + is now making the relays. The new + feed comes directly from my alternator.

Looked first and measures 11,7V at my headlights. Running engine ofcourse, so there is a lot of volts away because the 2 switches (normal light switch and the big handle for high beam). Now I have directly volts from the alternator like 14.2V. In combination with clear glas it's a hugh different.

You can also buy these wiring called Swedish light thing. A store called Landreiziger sell them for about 35 pounds.

Click to expand...

sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times

terr said:

sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times

Click to expand...

I don't under stand how that can happen. If you think about it, when the engine is running the alternator is giving out 14+ volts and the same voltage will be at the battery. So burning relays shouldn't happen.

in theory you are right but the battery has the affect of smoothing the power from the alternator. and a old one can break down over a long time so power spikes can happen but if it run though a battery thing will last-longer
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/spot-light-relay-275460.html is the thread about it
j

chilipepper said:

ps i riveted my light guards in place to slow down any opportunist thieves!

Click to expand...

I bet you pray daily that a bulb doesn't go

twinter82 said:

I bet you pray daily that a bulb doesn't go

Click to expand...

Why I put new bulbs in my headlights the other day and I didn't touch my light guards, just open the bonnet, stick hand into wing, take bulb out.... simples

terr said:

sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times

Click to expand...

Don't know why that happened, use my wiring already for 2 years and still works fine.... I do have also an relay for high beam.

chilipepper said:

One day i'll work out how to attache pic's and not thumbnails!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks chilipepper, looks very smart!

I like the idea of better light and less draw on voltage, I better get saving!

Grimmer said:

Why I put new bulbs in my headlights the other day and I didn't touch my light guards, just open the bonnet, stick hand into wing, take bulb out.... simples

Click to expand...

I meant indicators and sidelights mines ex-mod so unscrew from front and am assuming yours are the same?

If all else fails wait until the sun comes up

terr said:

in theory you are right but the battery has the affect of smoothing the power from the alternator. and a old one can break down over a long time so power spikes can happen but if it run though a battery thing will last-longer
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/spot-light-relay-275460.html is the thread about it
j

Click to expand...

Doesn't happen with all relays. But as I (and others perhaps ) mentioned in the other thread, relays can be a bit temperamental with voltage fluctuations ( like you can get from an alternator ). They will last longer with the more constant supply from the battery.

twinter82 said:

I meant indicators and sidelights mines ex-mod so unscrew from front and am assuming yours are the same?

Click to expand...

Ah, yep, I'll give you that one

The headlight relay upgrade is a genuinely good option.
This video shows how one goes about installing such a system:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKr9t56tJxg

And other than that, just LEDs, LEDs, LEDs!