hot air only at high revs

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J

Jezath

New Member
Posts
157
Location
cwmavon, port talbot
Ok ive followed rave instructions on refilling my cooling system.

The thing is ive still not got hot air, it only seems to produce it if i keep the engine at 2500 rpm. any ideas on this? thermostat maybe?

Head gasket was replaced about 5 months ago..

I found an empty carton of rad weld in my boot after head gasket replacement, i never use it myself so strange how it got there.
 
At a rough guess - the peeps that dud yo head gasket? I would be inclined to take it back and ask them....

A) why the radweld?
B) why no heating?
 
It could be the water pump causing your problem. Had you done something to the cooling system for it to require refilling?
 
yeah i drained it and refilled with 50/50 blue coolent and water. i followed the guidlines in rave though on refilling.. going back to that cowboy is out of the question, his work is better left forgotten.. im sure he said he fitted a new waterpump, hmm any way to check it?
 
Jezath said:
yeah i drained it and refilled with 50/50 blue coolent and water. i followed the guidlines in rave though on refilling.. going back to that cowboy is out of the question, his work is better left forgotten.. im sure he said he fitted a new waterpump, hmm any way to check it?
Click to expand...

If your landy is a TD5 it should be pink OAT antifreeze due to it having an aluminium head.

The water pump is located behind the power steering pump and unfortunately is encased so is out of sight which makes it hard to tell if it has been done.

My 1999 TD5 was the same when I first got it and also after having the HG changed the first time round (the head was cracked). Fitting the new head sorted the problem the second time around. TD5's can be a pain to keep hot air coming from the heaters though. The thermostats twin valve design is supposed to help keep the cabin hot while on tickover.
 
This blue stuff says its good for alluminum heads, OAT inhibitors etc etc.. Ichecked thoroughly before putting it in, because i thought pink also...

Im really freakin hoping i dont have to buy a new head man, i aint got a grand spare for that... yeah i mean i can add bits and play around with 50-100 pound every week, but saving is not one of my virtues, cough cough...

I need the darn heater sorting soon tho its already cold lol... will take waterpump off and replace this weekend anyway and buy a new thermostat incase its sticking ( mebee due to the cowboys radweld).. ill flush the rad and intercooler while the systems empty also... Are there other parts i can flush? like the pipe going into the heater matrix that leads from the top hose? or other areas?

I had an incident today also... I was running the car at high revs for about 15 mins, under load and always between 2k and 3.2k rpm.. After 15 mins the temp gauge started rising and in came limp home mode.. had to slow down and stop for a bit to let it cool down again, which it did happily on tickover.. seems when i really push this engine atm it likes to overheat..

Quite often i can hear boiling coming out of expansion tank
 
Jezath said:
This blue stuff says its good for alluminum heads, OAT inhibitors etc etc.. Ichecked thoroughly before putting it in, because i thought pink also...

Im really freakin hoping i dont have to buy a new head man, i aint got a grand spare for that... yeah i mean i can add bits and play around with 50-100 pound every week, but saving is not one of my virtues, cough cough...

I need the darn heater sorting soon tho its already cold lol... will take waterpump off and replace this weekend anyway and buy a new thermostat incase its sticking ( mebee due to the cowboys radweld).. ill flush the rad and intercooler while the systems empty also... Are there other parts i can flush? like the pipe going into the heater matrix that leads from the top hose? or other areas?

I had an incident today also... I was running the car at high revs for about 15 mins, under load and always between 2k and 3.2k rpm.. After 15 mins the temp gauge started rising and in came limp home mode.. had to slow down and stop for a bit to let it cool down again, which it did happily on tickover.. seems when i really push this engine atm it likes to overheat..

Quite often i can hear boiling coming out of expansion tank
Click to expand...

Sounds like it's time to get a sniff test done. Things aren't sounding good. TD5's don't like getting overheated. The sooner you can get whatever the problem is sorted the better the chance of saving your cylinder head.
 
a sniff tester is a machine that reads co2 levels in yer expansion tank if theres co2 in there yer head aint right just ask any local garage to do one it shouldnt be more than a few quid to have one done
 
thanks alot, i hope it aint the headgasket again.. :( it was done for a headgasket before, dident solve the problem though :S i will check with this sniff test, after what u guys said i was out there sniffing the expansion tank lol..

any idea off the top of yur heads what a sniff test and pressure test will cost me?
 
Depends really. If your going to give wherever you take it to the work should they find anything then nothing. If not I'd guess about £30 for both. I've got a Sniffer and it doesn't take long if there is something wrong.
 
Sniff tests are not always conclusive especially on the TD5 - You will need to get the engine up to full operating temperature by ideally going on a good run and then drive to the garage and get them to do the test literally as soon as you arrive to give the best chance of an accurate assessment.

I would be changing the thermostat first as the radweld could have knackered it (Its happened to me twice over the years)

You can check if your waterpump is OK but checking the height of the water jet coming out of the bleed screw hole. 4" approx on tickover and then it should hit the underside of the bonnet when revved. Any visual leaks are usually easy enough to spot and often stain the side of the block.

HTH

TONY
 
aye ive looked for leaks and stuff, cant see any tbh... woooo off to buy a thermostat tommorow :) must be the easiest bit of kit to fit :) hope i put it in the right way round :)

mmmm i suppose ill have to drain the cooling system and remove viscous fan?
 
Disconnect as many pipes as you can and flush away (direction does not matter) just keep low pressure.

You can easily flush: -

Through header tank
Inlet to heater matrix
Outlet from heater matrix
Into cylinder head through elbow on RHS of block
Through Top Hose
Through radiator
Through thermostat

As a thermostat is not expensive make sure you go for either Genuine or OEM as they are a critical component. Allmakes 4x4 do 2 versions - The OEM version has a 'G' on the end of the part number.


TONY
 
Last edited:
getting thermostat today :D from abergavenney 4x4, real nice guys there, lovely dog too :) I did a sniff test at a local garage on an emissions machine.. no hydrocarbons at all in the expansion tank, thank god...

On a side note i replaced the oil in my rear diff yesterday, the stuff that came out was BROWN, so prolly its got water in it... nice new oil has gone in but instead of the silly plastic filler plug, i replaced with a brass one + copper compression washer... its going to be much easier when i come to change that oil again..

Anyway got some wynns coolent flush.. my idea is .to hose the system first, then fill water and wynns, take for a 2-3 hour drive then empty and stick my coolent back in, sound practical??
 
Sounds protracted and should be unnecessary if your coolant system has been well maintained.

If you do use the flush just run the car on the drive for 20 mins.

You don't need to remove the viscous fan on a TD5 to change the thermostat. Long flexible hose clip driver is your friend :)

The cranked part of the thermostat goes to the hose to the waterpump and if you look at it, it should be marked as so.

T
 
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