Hmmm..... Non starter

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J

J_B

New Member
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13
Ok, so this is my problem. I have a 51 plate TD4 which will crank over but will not start, I'vetried easy start in the inlet manifold and that worked but when I stopped the engine and tried it without the easy start it wouldn't start, any ideas?
Any help/advice would be much appreciated..

Cheers
 
one or more of your injectors are leaking back.
you need to idenify which one by doing a leak back test covered on here many times, do a search,
only fix it to replace injector/s and not a cheap option,
 
Done the test, and apparently the injectors are ok, any further suggestions? Could it be the HP pump
 
Thanks Vee8, the mechanic tried the rail switch by replacing it with a new one, but still no joy, been off the road 3 weeks
now
 
Thanks again Vee8 and Blippie, will try and clean connectors on the rail sensor and check the cam shaft sensor too this fri, I know when the mechanic got it running with the easy start it ran fine, no miss firing or anything.

Cycling to work is killing me, so need to get this sorted soon, losing weight and getting fit just isn't right.

Cheers guys.
 
I know you have said that you have done a leak back test, but it does have the classic injector leaking back problem. Can I ask how was the test done ?
 
Hey Booboodag, I didn't get a chance to do the test, but the garage that did it assure me that they did one, am I just being naive, What should be involved so I can ask them, I did have a look on here, am I correct in thinking there are a couple of ways of doing it, one high pressure and one low, the high pressure one being done by cranking the engine over but with all sensors disconnected and wires off the injectors, and low pressure one done with just the ignition switched on??

:frusty:
 
Simple way it to take the return pipes off the top of each injector clamp the return pipe off. Turn the ignition on you should see no fuel coming out of the injector till about 8 seconds. If any leak before that, then that will be the faulty injector. It may be that you get a couple if injectors that leak back around the 6 second mark and that will also prevent starting, you often get away with one leaking at 6 seconds.

If any injector fails the above test that will be the problem, however they can pass the above and still be leaking back which then require testing while cranking, which is a bit more complicated, try the easy one first and see the result.
 
booboodag said:
Simple way it to take the return pipes off the top of each injector clamp the return pipe off. Turn the ignition on you should see no fuel coming out of the injector till about 8 seconds. If any leak before that, then that will be the faulty injector. It may be that you get a couple if injectors that leak back around the 6 second mark and that will also prevent starting, you often get away with one leaking at 6 seconds.

If any injector fails the above test that will be the problem, however they can pass the above and still be leaking back which then require testing while cranking, which is a bit more complicated, try the easy one first and see the result.
Click to expand...

Did this today but none of the injectors leaked
 
only takes 10 mins to change a £30 camshaft sensor

pity you were misled down the leak off test,

have you got it running yet ?
 
john t said:
only takes 10 mins to change a £30 camshaft sensor

pity you were misled down the leak off test,

have you got it running yet ?
Click to expand...

not sure he was misled, it is one of the most common cold starting issues on here.

to do the leak off test costs nothing and either proves or disproves the injectors. Think I'd rather spend half an hour trying that for free before spending £30 on a camshaft sensor.
 
john t said:
only takes 10 mins to change a £30 camshaft sensor

pity you were misled down the leak off test,

have you got it running yet ?
Click to expand...

How was he misled? None of us here plugged it into a diagnostic computer that would have shown a camshaft sensor fault. What people give on forums is advise and their thoughts. It's not 100% gospel.


In 9 out of 10 cases with the TD4 if the problem is when the engine is cold it is an injector fault. If it's when hot it's a camshaft sensor. It's pretty rare to have a freelander camshaft sensor go down when the engine is cold without it having played up previously when hot.
 
Last edited:
All advice that has been given is greatly appreciated, so far then a leak back test has been done revealing number 3 injector was not up to par, so that was changed, then a camshaft sensor and glow plugs for the hell of it, but still no joy, any other advice/suggestions will still be taken as I won't let this beat me.

Cheers guys
 
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